Earl brown cover info

[1fastcobra]

Sounds like to me
You should get one hell of a reach around for that one .
For maybe an hrs worth of porting and it looks like this after a prime.
Regardless still no contact

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[StageII86]

I don't have an EB cover, but am planning on getting one just for the sake of having a 100% good to go, properly clearanced setup with the mods. Your issue sounds pretty bad but is the first negative I've ever heard on the EB cover. Regarding the price, if you price all the parts new, using a GM cover, then add the mods (done by someone who's done 100's), which I know are not rocket surgery, the $450 is not really out of line. A NOS GM cover is over $200 if I recall - cover only, no other parts.

 

[bison]

Id imagine jt would take quite a bit of rpm with high viscosity oil on prime to initiate bypass oil. It's possible the pump drive could be inadvertently loaded downward while priming which could cause the gear to cut into the adapter especially if it's not using a steel plate


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[StageII86]

Id imagine jt would take quite a bit of rpm with high viscosity oil on prime to initiate bypass oil. It's possible the pump drive could be inadvertently loaded downward while priming which could cause the gear to cut into the adapter especially if it's not using a steel plate

Do you always prefer to use the steel plate?

 

[bison]

Do you always prefer to use the steel plate?

No. I dont even have a steel plate on the one in the blue car. If the adapter is scored to hell I would rather use a steel plate then waste my time cleaning up the scored adapter. There's a chance to contaminate the bypass passage with grit and aluminum when machining the surface. The steel plate itself needs to be checked for flatness also. To properly setup a cover is a lot of work. Ive seen the machining off where the adapter mates with the cover.


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[StageII86]

Thanks.

Also, in some of the pics of the OP it sure looks like the adaptor was either real tight or a lot of downward force was put on the drive gear?

1fastcobra - did you personally prime it? And if so what was your method? What did you use to drive the pump? Just trying to help identify any external variables.

 

[earlbrown]

Sorry about that, I've been away from the board a few days. Every now and then real life stuff takes me away from the interwebs for a few days.

There's some things that don't make sense. If you look at the surface finish of the filter adapter you can see a cross hatch machined finish. That can't be replicated with hand lapping. That would leave an even matte grey finish. Plus if it was flattened that wouldn't be a factor. The one on my personal 4.2 is hand lapped, but all the covers I build for other people are all 100% new parts. Including the NOS adapter you have there.

Honestly I don't know why my name came out first. I make sure Dave has covers in stock ready to go. Even when it's over 100F at 100% humidity outside.

Since it was installed on a complete motor, it's part of a working assembly and he should have been the first to call. He could have grabbed another one off the shelf and kept the owner behind the wheel.

If there's a problem with a cover I built, I will take care if it, PERIOD (not the presidential "period", an actual one). Swapping it out wold have keep the car on the road and Dave and I could have sorted it out without anybody taking at hit. I've had people over the years send me my covers after a blown headgasket and I've never had a problem going threw them and making sure they're still up to the task. That hasn't changed.


With the "machined area where the water is" I'm guessing Dave used a Webber billet cam on that engine (he likes those) and you have to spot face an area on the inside of the cover to set the correct endplay on the cam. It's specific to that kit and doesn't apply to cams from other people (I don't know what Webber charges to do that machining operation. I did it for free and I don't think Dave passes that cost along).

The gears kinda jumped out at me. The pictures you showed of the flats, are 100% the kind of stuff I do. Since I deal with end clearances if 1/2 of 10,000ths I'm pretty anal about making sure there are no high spots or anomalies. On the faces of the teeth, I hope the flash from the camera makes them look worse because those are not indicative of anything I would send out. I know how lighting and flashes and parallax error can make it a pain to accurately show reflective parts. If those pictures are accurate I'm wondering what kind of debris went through my pump. Also the stamps don't always face the bottom. It's random depending on how they were printed when the shaft got pressed in. I just grabbed 4 sets at random and they all faced up. Perhaps you're thinking of the Melling gears. I have no idea as I use GM stuff on mine and they can go either way.


I'm trying to figure out what's going on with the engine and some things just don't make sense to me.... If I were to prime a crate engine, I can't think of one reason to start puling pans and stuff. Did you spin it dry and bear down on the pump shaft perhaps? Since the engines never been fired I don't understand how flakes could have made it to the oil pan.. If you have an engine that's loose as hell with .002" rods and mains, that only leaves 1 thousandths of an inch for metal to get past the journals. That's damn near microscopic. How did the pan end up like that (unless the camera is embellishing the sparkles of course)?


I'm happy to help get this car back on the road. That's why I spend so much time here.

 

[1fastcobra]

Thanks.

Also, in some of the pics of the OP it sure looks like the adaptor was either real tight or a lot of downward force was put on the drive gear?

1fastcobra - did you personally prime it? And if so what was your method? What did you use to drive the pump? Just trying to help identify any external variables.

No all work was done by dave !!!!

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[1fastcobra]

Sorry about that, I've been away from the board a few days. Every now and then real life stuff takes me away from the interwebs for a few days.

There's some things that don't make sense. If you look at the surface finish of the filter adapter you can see a cross hatch machined finish. That can't be replicated with hand lapping. That would leave an even matte grey finish. Plus if it was flattened that wouldn't be a factor. The one on my personal 4.2 is hand lapped, but all the covers I build for other people are all 100% new parts. Including the NOS adapter you have there.

Honestly I don't know why my name came out first. I make sure Dave has covers in stock ready to go. Even when it's over 100F at 100% humidity outside.

Since it was installed on a complete motor, it's part of a working assembly and he should have been the first to call. He could have grabbed another one off the shelf and kept the owner behind the wheel.

If there's a problem with a cover I built, I will take care if it, PERIOD (not the presidential "period", an actual one). Swapping it out wold have keep the car on the road and Dave and I could have sorted it out without anybody taking at hit. I've had people over the years send me my covers after a blown headgasket and I've never had a problem going threw them and making sure they're still up to the task. That hasn't changed.


With the "machined area where the water is" I'm guessing Dave used a Webber billet cam on that engine (he likes those) and you have to spot face an area on the inside of the cover to set the correct endplay on the cam. It's specific to that kit and doesn't apply to cams from other people (I don't know what Webber charges to do that machining operation. I did it for free and I don't think Dave passes that cost along).

The gears kinda jumped out at me. The pictures you showed of the flats, are 100% the kind of stuff I do. Since I deal with end clearances if 1/2 of 10,000ths I'm pretty anal about making sure there are no high spots or anomalies. On the faces of the teeth, I hope the flash from the camera makes them look worse because those are not indicative of anything I would send out. I know how lighting and flashes and parallax error can make it a pain to accurately show reflective parts. If those pictures are accurate I'm wondering what kind of debris went through my pump. Also the stamps don't always face the bottom. It's random depending on how they were printed when the shaft got pressed in. I just grabbed 4 sets at random and they all faced up. Perhaps you're thinking of the Melling gears. I have no idea as I use GM stuff on mine and they can go either way.


I'm trying to figure out what's going on with the engine and some things just don't make sense to me.... If I were to prime a crate engine, I can't think of one reason to start puling pans and stuff. Did you spin it dry and bear down on the pump shaft perhaps? Since the engines never been fired I don't understand how flakes could have made it to the oil pan.. If you have an engine that's loose as hell with .002" rods and mains, that only leaves 1 thousandths of an inch for metal to get past the journals. That's damn near microscopic. How did the pan end up like that (unless the camera is embellishing the sparkles of course)?


I'm happy to help get this car back on the road. That's why I spend so much time here.

828-four oh four-7399 call me !

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[StageII86]

1fastcobra:
What is your theory on how the shavings made it in to the pan?
What led you to drop the pan and pull the timing cover off in the first place?

I am putting another one together myself and just trying to learn as much as I can to hopefully avoid the issue you're experiencing.

 

[David Husek]

Looking for his number
Any one have it
Need to know if there are any markings on his covers
Have a brand new motor that was only primed for oil built by dave husak
Never ran
After prime now has aluminum in the oil
In the heads . Oil filter
Pulling the pan and cover
Will post pics


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I really wish I had the time to get this motor installed in Tony's time frame, then he would be driving it right now here in NY and be happy.

This will be taken care of. A simple phone call is all it would have taken, not sure why it is here...

 

[1fastcobra]

Ok wtf is going on
My number was changed
And my answer post was deleted

I see we are playing that f...kin game by the moderators again

Protect the paying vender !!!!
Well u know what. Fuck you
Im done with your bull shit baby games.
If u wanna be a man u have my number to clear up this matter

Shane my number is posted if u wanna make this rite


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[larrym]

Do you always prefer to use the steel plate?

I do the thought of steel on aluminium never made much sense to me.

 

[charlief1]

Ok wtf is going on
My number was changed
And my answer post was deleted

I see we are playing that f...kin game by the moderators again

Protect the paying vender !!!!
Well u know what. Fuck you
Im done with your bull shit baby games.
If u wanna be a man u have my number to clear up this matter

Shane my number is posted if u wanna make this rite

You had a quote and no response dude. When I looked at it there was nothing there other than the quote. Get over it dude. If you want to quote it again and then respond this time with info that shows up then it's fine.

 

[1fastcobra]

You had a quote and no response dude. When I looked at it there was nothing there other than the quote. Get over it dude. If you want to quote it again and then respond this time with info that shows up then it's fine.

Figured it was u
Look who the hell asked u to look anyway
It was spaced and quoted
If u can't read and it don't pertain to u back the fuck off
No wait u did this too me before
Protect the vender. And fuck the little guy
Stop protecting your friends
And being one sided


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[we4Mateo]

Slow your roll man. Charlie clearly explained what happened, and I saw the same post that was a quote but nothing that you had actually typed. I even looked in the quote as some people type it there by mistake. It's easy to see why it's deleted.

 

[Fast4Ward]

Interwebs happening. Do not drink and interweb

 

[charlief1]

Figured it was u
Look who the hell asked u to look anyway
It was spaced and quoted
If u can't read and it don't pertain to u back the fuck off
No wait u did this too me before
Protect the vender. And fuck the little guy
Stop protecting your friends
And being one sided

First things first. Please watch your language, this is a family board, not yellowbullet. If you have a problem with me that's fine, I don't have one with you, nor do I protect vendors. Earl's not a vendor here. He posts for sale items at the discretion (sp) of the board. He does sell to Dave, and Dave uses his parts for his builds because they simply work. If you didn't notice, Dave and Earl have said they'd take care of the issue so no protection was or is needed. That's just good customer service, period.

If you want to quote that post once again, but actually post something yourself, then go ahead. If you screw the quote up and include your post in the quote, then I'll fix it for you, just like I do for others. If you want to waste space and post a bunch of BS in a feedback thread, again, that has nothing do do with a product you didn't purchase or use yourself, then I'll remove it since you're not the OP or vendor involved in the situation. Any questions?

 

[earlbrown]

is someone I've never sold to trashing me in the feedback section?


It's kinda funny how a cover with my name on it THAT'S NEVER BEEN RAN is causing all this drama.



I guess it's a good thing I have a real life in real life

 

[1fastcobra]

First things first. Please watch your language, this is a family board, not yellowbullet. If you have a problem with me that's fine, I don't have one with you, nor do I protect vendors. Earl's not a vendor here. He posts for sale items at the discretion (sp) of the board. He does sell to Dave, and Dave uses his parts for his builds because they simply work. If you didn't notice, Dave and Earl have said they'd take care of the issue so no protection was or is needed. That's just good customer service, period.

If you want to quote that post once again, but actually post something yourself, then go ahead. If you screw the quote up and include your post in the quote, then I'll fix it for you, just like I do for others. If you want to waste space and post a bunch of BS in a feedback thread, again, that has nothing do do with a product you didn't purchase or use yourself, then I'll remove it since you're not the OP or vendor involved in the situation. Any questions?

Oh I see now
If I didn't buy it or its not on my car
I can't say anything !!!
Perfect .

I like I said before
Your a one way street

And for good customer service
Ive yet to be contacted