hay youz guys

SteveZ82

Active Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2019
Getting really close to having my list of things to do to my 86 GN done. So far, I've gotten rid of my KR completely at 17psi, fluids all done, body bushings done, 235s on all four wheels, replaced the PS motor mount and oil pan gasket (cork) yesterday, and fixed my broken pipe mount after the cat. Apparently, I hit a speed hump and I got a nice bend on the bottom frame rails to prove it. That made me pissed. Anyway, even before the car hit the speed hump, I'm constantly pulling right slightly. I have the hotchkins springs and bilsteins. Alignment is spot on, control arm bushings are replaced on the PS, 34psi in all wheels. Seems to help if I bump up pressures. My steering is definitely loose so I have a new bearing kit coming for the steering box as well as the upgraded lower shaft. The bushings, etc under the car all look great

Things left are the steering shaft and bushing kit, valve cover gaskets, convert the AC to 134a and fix the leak and water pump (has some horizontal movement). Now the questions:

1) Any good tricks to getting these valve covers off? I tried once and got annoyed. Might be better now that we replaced the motor mount.
2) any ideas to why I'm pulling right? Like I said, frame is straight and suspension looks pretty good. Would the new steering parts I'm getting help any?
3) when we had the oil pan off, we noticed that the rear main was replaced at some point (whew). Also, we didn't prime the engine but when we started the car, the oil light went off within the normal time. Pan was only out maybe 40 minutes. How much PSI triggers that sensor? Did I goof by not priming the motor? Rode home 10 miles at expressway speeds and I don't hear anything that sounds like a bag of wrenches.
4) any good sources to convert to 134a? I have seen so many opinions like just fix the leaks and stick to R12 equivalent, drain the system and convert using the right oil. So, if there is any one good source, that would be helpful.

Thanks in advance. This forum has really educated me on TBs and you all have been awesome.
 
I redid my AC w/new compressor and dryer etc. and used Envriosafe R12 equivalent and it works well. I didn't want to go 134A.
 
It claims to be a R12 equivalent. I've used it w/good results as have friends of mine too. They have a website that can hopefully answer your question. I didn't want to convert to 134a. I used a new compressor and drier and flushed my factory condenser. New seals too. Been working fine for years. Gets plenty cool. It was around 5 bucks a can a few years ago.
 
I use Duracool with my unflushed R12 A/C in the GN.

Oil light is 4psi. pressure switch. No goof.
I may check that out. We have to find the leak first. When we vacuumed the system last year, it held vacuum for like 2 hours so we thought it was ok. I'm sure it's fine, I'm just a worry wart.
 
Last edited:
Top