Eagle rods part#CRS5967B3D vs. K-1 rods vs. Molnar rods?

[NCTURBOS]

Looking for some real world pros & cons on the Eagle rods versus the others that are available?!?! Just about the only difference I see in the specs. of them is the K-1 & Molnar use a 7/16" ARP 2000 bolt versus the Eagle using a 3/8" ARP 2000 bolt.

Again looking for the good &/or bad from these Eagle rods....

Thanks,

K.

 

[earlbrown]

Can't imagine there's any real world difference between the two. Rods aren't really a weak link in our engines.

 

[NCTURBOS]

Yeah, I've had great success with the oem rods w/stock bolts, oem rods w/ARP bolts, K-1 rods, and DLS wide journal rods... I just haven't used or even seen/measured the Eagle rods to date, but have the opportunity to pick up a couple sets for what I would consider a very nice price point! Just wondering how the quality is, how the housings measure, any taper, out-of-round, how the bushings measure/straightness, etc., etc... If they need work out the box...


K.

 

[earlbrown]

That would be a case by case thing. Personally I would never put a rod into service that I haven't ran a bore gauge though. Aftermarket or stock.

 

[Jay J]

Can't imagine there's any real world difference between the two. Rods aren't really a weak link in our engines.

Bingo.

 

[2QUICK2B6]

Ive had good luck with eagle rods on the lil iorn bb vega of my brothers. A friend usta hate eagle rods, after spending thousands in bent oliver rods he switched to eagle rods and never had any more problems

 

[NCTURBOS]

...Personally I would never put a rod into service that I haven't ran a bore gauge though. Aftermarket or stock.

Agreed and thankfully I have all that covered, & then some...

Bingo.

Thank you for your response... Now can you tell me more about your 1st. hand experience with these Eagle rods?

Ive had good luck with eagle rods on the lil iorn bb vega of my brothers. A friend usta hate eagle rods, after spending thousands in bent oliver rods he switched to eagle rods and never had any more problems

Scott, friends have had pretty good experience with them as well in SBC, SBF, etc. applications. I just don't know anyone using them in our TB's... I can have multiple sets in my hands one day after ordering them, so I guess I'll get some coming and check them out face-to-face.


K.

 

[Howling Mad]

I've ran scat rods in a few motors and k-1s in a few others. You're not going to see a difference in forged rods really. All are about the same strength wise. Now if you're building for huge power might want to look a little deeper.

 

[2QUICK2B6]

well whats best for huge hp buicks in everyones opinion

 

[Howling Mad]

Huge hp? I've got no clue. All of my experience is in street cars. Mostly imports, and a few chevys and fords. With that said probably something billet but at that point aren't you testing the limits of the block?

 

[2QUICK2B6]

not if it isn't a 109

 

[we4Mateo]

Can't imagine there's any real world difference between the two. Rods aren't really a weak link in our engines.

Stockers don't break, but they do bend/twist easy enough...

 

[Eticket]

Many guys and machinists like crower billet rods for high hp builds...

 

[slamming 6]

I use Cunnigham rods in both my 109 and stage motors.

 

[jhanson1750]

I'm wasn't making killer power but I have a et in my TB and have been very pleased with them. I checked them when they came out of the box and they were no more than .00025 out of round using an inter-mic. After 7 years and well over 500 passes, most at 30lbs, several headgaskets and now a cracked stock crank the worst one (#6 that I collapsed the ring land on the piston) is .00035 out of round. As far as machining and weight matching they were as good as almost any. The shop that did my balancing said they only had to size the small end as I went floating on the pins but didn't have to do any grinding to weight match.
I work at a turbine remanufacturing machine shop here in Houston so I have access to some very accurate measuring equipment as well as my personal tools. Given my experience I would not hesitate to recommend them for a "street" car. Being an "H" beam and not an "I" beam they do great in our low-ish rpm range. I think unless you were shooting for over 6500 rpm they would be great, any higher than that and I would go to an "I" beam as they handle the revs much better. I hope this helps, Jon Hanson

If you would like some pics I can get some as the engine is apart and everything is bagged until family health issues are dealt with.