Denatured vs isopropyl
- Thread starter V6POWER
- Start date
You know, I don't think anyone has asked that question yet!
Denatured alcohol consists of Ethanol/methanol and other chemicals, where isopropyl is isopropyl........I think.
I could run more boost on straight denatured than I could on 70/30 iso.
Just my 4 cents....
Denatured alcohol consists of Ethanol/methanol and other chemicals, where isopropyl is isopropyl........I think.
I could run more boost on straight denatured than I could on 70/30 iso.
Just my 4 cents....
boostedmaxPSI
Hard Member
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2001
The following info come from an 1987 April issue of Hot Rod:
Isopropyl: 112 research octane
Good points: Excellent octane boosting compunds as an oxygen-bearing compound, offers potential power gains, relatively inexpensive, reduces exhaust emissions
Bad points: extreme concentrates inhibit upper engine lubercation.
Isopropyl: 112 research octane
Good points: Excellent octane boosting compunds as an oxygen-bearing compound, offers potential power gains, relatively inexpensive, reduces exhaust emissions
Bad points: extreme concentrates inhibit upper engine lubercation.
OneLethal87GN
R.I.P. Lethal GN
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
I thought the Turbo Regal web site had isopropyl alky listed at only 101 octane? I asked about the octane of denatured not long ago and was told it had an octane of @100. If so, then why is denatured about ten times higher than isopropyl? It costs me @ $9/ gallon for denatured, yet a gallon of isopropyl runs a little over a dollar.
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Because I drive my car daily, I'd never consider using denatured because of the cost. At $8 or $9 a gallon, it could get very expensive. I use 60% methanol and 40% distilled water. Methanol only costs me $2.75 a gallon. Distilled water at Walmart is $.58 a gallon. I used 70/30 isopropyl & distilled water successfully for over two years. Recently, I found out that methanol and water does a better job of knock suppression on my car, so I made the switch with no problems.
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
I'm running the diy kit as described in Steve Monroe's website. Been running it for over three years and 70,000 miles. I don't use any lubricant in my mix. It must not be necessary because if it hasn't had any effect by now, it never will.
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
There's just a little place around here that is associated with drag racing that sells it. I get a 5 gallon can filled. I couldn't tell you what kind of place to look in your area. Post the question.
Steve Hill
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2002
The answer to your question, "What is the difference ....." is that the various alcohols each have very specific chemical characteristics.
-Because molecular chemistry is, after all, the determining factor between, say, diesel fuel and gasolene (etc.), this is what you pay attention to-
For the purpose of detonation suppression, Iso is least appropriate. Forget that.
Denatured has the most btu's, while methanol the higest Latent Heat Of Vaporization. Therefore, if mixed in low ratio, methanol should come out slightly ahead.
In reality it can be a tradeoff. Sometimes you just have to experiment to see what works best for you.
One thing for sure, if you need max knock control, a 50-50 water/alcohol mix can't be beat. It also will give definate feedback when you're fluid flow is too much, thanks to the water. If you use denatured you can then gain back some of the (lost) btu's.
-Because molecular chemistry is, after all, the determining factor between, say, diesel fuel and gasolene (etc.), this is what you pay attention to-
For the purpose of detonation suppression, Iso is least appropriate. Forget that.
Denatured has the most btu's, while methanol the higest Latent Heat Of Vaporization. Therefore, if mixed in low ratio, methanol should come out slightly ahead.
In reality it can be a tradeoff. Sometimes you just have to experiment to see what works best for you.
One thing for sure, if you need max knock control, a 50-50 water/alcohol mix can't be beat. It also will give definate feedback when you're fluid flow is too much, thanks to the water. If you use denatured you can then gain back some of the (lost) btu's.
OneLethal87GN
R.I.P. Lethal GN
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
So you're saying that a 50/50 mix of water and denatured alcohol is the best all around mix? Right now my tank is filled to the top with denatured. After my rebuild, and getting the tank half full, I'll fill it back up with water for a 50/50 mix to see how it affects my car. So far my best is 18 psi with a 30 degree race chip. Before the alky kit I could only get 9-11 psi, and that was with knock.
Turbo__Tim
One heck of a Tim!
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
See if you can run a 70 percent mix first. Few make 50-50 work with the SMC..
Alky doesnt work well with high timing chips at high boost levels..Ditch that 30 degree chip or be in retard city.18-23 degrees depending on a host of issues.
My track sells methanol at their pumps for 2.50 a gallon..its what the dragsters use.
I havent seen many fast alcohol cars running a watered down mix.
No mix here either..techniaclly its suppossed to work better..on my car it doesnt..knock guage doesnt lie.
BM Computer Src
New Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
I've never found a mix that works better than straight denatured, but I have not tried mathanol either.
I have tried iso (yuck) and water mixes, over the 3 years and 50,000 miles I have had my SMC kit. Dentaured all the way. It's only $6 a gallon at places like Sherwin Williams, etc... One gallon lasted me about 2-3 weeks when I daily drove my GN.
Hope this helps,
Bob
I have tried iso (yuck) and water mixes, over the 3 years and 50,000 miles I have had my SMC kit. Dentaured all the way. It's only $6 a gallon at places like Sherwin Williams, etc... One gallon lasted me about 2-3 weeks when I daily drove my GN.
Hope this helps,
Bob
Steve Hill
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2002
Turbo Tim has a good point about the nozzles. Without a long, boring story I’ll just say the more you push the limits of either boost or fuel, the more you’ll appreciate good atomization.
'Nuff said.
OneLethal87GN, it takes only a small percentage of water to increase knock resistance. 50% mix is the maximum, beyond which you’ll run into other issues. 50% is what was needed when testing at 33lbs. with high timing.
Again, Turbo Tim’s suggestion of a lesser % is on target. Thanks, Tim, for those suggestions.
Razor, I don’t know why alky wouldn’t work with high timing. It has the bonafides to suggest it should, and has worked well for me at 29 degrees advance, with as much load as I could put on the engine (WOT uphill in fourth). I suggest you need more in order to take full advantage of the w/a scheme.
DrBooster, the two alcohols mix fine. Their individual characteristic’s are so similar that, without sophisticated tools, you’d be hard pressed to discern a difference.
'Nuff said.
OneLethal87GN, it takes only a small percentage of water to increase knock resistance. 50% mix is the maximum, beyond which you’ll run into other issues. 50% is what was needed when testing at 33lbs. with high timing.
Again, Turbo Tim’s suggestion of a lesser % is on target. Thanks, Tim, for those suggestions.
Razor, I don’t know why alky wouldn’t work with high timing. It has the bonafides to suggest it should, and has worked well for me at 29 degrees advance, with as much load as I could put on the engine (WOT uphill in fourth). I suggest you need more in order to take full advantage of the w/a scheme.
DrBooster, the two alcohols mix fine. Their individual characteristic’s are so similar that, without sophisticated tools, you’d be hard pressed to discern a difference.
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Hey Booster, in case you haven't checked this out. Two kits for less than the price of one! Run anything through this pump!
http://home.att.net/~stevemon/AlcoholInjMod.html
Steve,
It has been my experience using the SMC kit. Once its set at pump speed 10..cant go any further than that on that kit.
I am currently going the DIY route and have all the parts already..just need to make some lines and will be flowing 3 times what I had..so maybe things will change..
I can run more timing with the car running a richer mixture..but that makes it lazy..more boost and less timing have worked for me...until now.
Goal is to be able and flood the motor at 25 PSI..then start backing out fuel from the chip so O2's are where they need to be..and yes increase timing until alky no longer makes an effect...
It has been my experience using the SMC kit. Once its set at pump speed 10..cant go any further than that on that kit.
I am currently going the DIY route and have all the parts already..just need to make some lines and will be flowing 3 times what I had..so maybe things will change..
I can run more timing with the car running a richer mixture..but that makes it lazy..more boost and less timing have worked for me...until now.
Goal is to be able and flood the motor at 25 PSI..then start backing out fuel from the chip so O2's are where they need to be..and yes increase timing until alky no longer makes an effect...
