This is driving me little nuts. When I got the car it ran lights out, no knock or anything. The MAF craped out and I replaced with the translator/LS1 MAF. I set the translator up per instructions, got knock. Switched the WOT to (3) on translator and still got knock. Could the MAF be the issue? I might sell the translator/MAF and get a remanufactured MAF from Kirban. All the gauges seems to be showing everyhing in working order, A/F:10, O2: 800+ getting into boost, etc. I have only gone half throttle as I see knock on scanmaster ranging from 2-8 at approx. 15 lbs of boost. The car runs on E85, and I am hoping the octane on the tank of fuel is just not up to par. Otherwise I need to find a good shop in south Florida to help ID the issue as I cannot afford to replace head gaskets/rebuild engine. I have read false knock on a couple threads, but I cannot find any exhaust pipes hitting anywhere.
Cant get rid of knock.. Translator/LS1 MAF?
- Thread starter novi331
- Start date
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Time for a wideband.
Fuel psi at boost is??
Fuel psi at boost is??
Couple of questions...
1. When you installed the Translator, did you also install an "Extender" chip in the ECU? Or, are you still using your old chip? If you're using your old chip, then the four DIP switches should be set to "ON-ON-ON-OFF". Is that how you have them set? (This assumes that you bought an older MAF Translator or MAF Translator Plus, not one of the newer MAF Translator Pro's or MAF Translator Gen-II's).
2. Are you sure you are using an LS1 3-1/2" MAF (as your first post states)? Or, did you get an LT1 3" MAF? Sometimes people get these confused. If the MAF uses the same diameter hoses as your stock MAF did, then it's an LT1 MAF. If you needed to buy bigger hoses to fit over the MAF, then it's an LS1 MAF. If it's a 3" LT1 MAF, you should set your MAF Base switch to "3". If it's a 3-1/2" LS1 MAF, you should set your MAF Base switch to "0".
Double check these items before you spend any more money.
1. When you installed the Translator, did you also install an "Extender" chip in the ECU? Or, are you still using your old chip? If you're using your old chip, then the four DIP switches should be set to "ON-ON-ON-OFF". Is that how you have them set? (This assumes that you bought an older MAF Translator or MAF Translator Plus, not one of the newer MAF Translator Pro's or MAF Translator Gen-II's).
2. Are you sure you are using an LS1 3-1/2" MAF (as your first post states)? Or, did you get an LT1 3" MAF? Sometimes people get these confused. If the MAF uses the same diameter hoses as your stock MAF did, then it's an LT1 MAF. If you needed to buy bigger hoses to fit over the MAF, then it's an LS1 MAF. If it's a 3" LT1 MAF, you should set your MAF Base switch to "3". If it's a 3-1/2" LS1 MAF, you should set your MAF Base switch to "0".
Double check these items before you spend any more money.
i just did this with translator 4.2 and Lt1 3" maf. set up switches to on on on off wot to 2. TT race chip tuned on alky for zero knock. now it gets knock but very little...before with factory maf i got nothing....which i thought was going bad.
ANYWAY AT IDLE ITS READING 4-6
ANYWAY AT IDLE ITS READING 4-6
Idle readings in the 4 to 6 grams-per-second range sound right for idle without an extender chip.
I don't have my car available right now (being painted), so I can't look. But, I'm assuming that the switches and knobs for your MAF Translator look like the ones in this manual:
http://turbotweak.com/translatorinstructions.pdf
If so, the little DIP switches should be set to "ON-ON-ON-OFF". The MAF "BASE" knob should be set to "3". For now, I would set the MAF "WOT" knob to "0". Setting the switches and knobs this way should send a signal to the ECU that emulates a stock MAF sensor.
If you are still getting knock after doing the above, then something else is going on. After setting things to above, reset the ECU by unplugging the orange wire and reconnecting it, then drive the car for a while in city traffic (varied driving conditions like cruising, light acceleration, heavy acceleration, stopping, etc.). Are your BLM's settling down to reasonable numbers (I mean in the range of 128 plus or minus 15 or so)? If "yes", then the MAF Translator is doing its job OK. If it's still getting some light knock, keep in mind the following - no two MAF's ever have the exact same calibration. You can swap two known good MAF's, and there is a good chance that they will result in different BLM's because they have slightly different calibrations. Because of this, your WOT BLM might end up being slightly different now than it was before, meaning it might be fueling slightly differently now than before. This is espeically true if one or more screens were removed from the MAF. You might have to retune your alky control or fuel pressure a little bit to compensate for this.
Interesting. I myself have an older Translator Plus and a 3" LT1 MAF. I am sure that I have the MAF Base set to "3". Even though the screens are removed from the MAF, the car runs fine with this setting.
I would say if you can't get the car to run right with the settings that should be right (ON-ON-ON-OFF, MAF Base = 3, WOT = 0), then something else is going on. Maybe the MAF or the Translator is bad? Is there somebody else in the area that has a 3" LT1 MAF that you can borrow? Of course, setting the switches and resetting the ECU might cure it (hopefully)...
Great feedback, I wanted to get some data to review as I have a power logger. Here is the latest file, I found that in frame 3316 there was 10 degrees of knock retard. It looks like the other data is good, however I am pretty green. I drained the fuel tank and started over with a new 5 gallons of E85 as all the knock started after I replaced the MAF and got 20 gallons of E85. I saw in the power logger that you can set your MAF sensor type. I have a 3.5 LS1 MAF, should the setting be for the 3 bar still? Thanks again!!!
OK, I just realized that there are two people asking questions in this thread. I think I've already answered Fast4Ward's questions... let us know if you make any progress on your issue - good for the record so future people can avoid these problems.
For Novi331: I am again assuming that you have an older style MAF Translator with switches and knobs that look like the ones below...
http://turbotweak.com/translatorinstructions.pdf
I can't tell from your posts what chip you have. If you are still using your old chip (i.e. not an "Extender" chip), then you need to have the switches set to ON-ON-ON-OFF (same as Fast4Ward). If you do have an Extender chip, let me know (although the above instructions should make the settings obvious). Your "MAF BASE" knob should be set to "0" for a 3.5" LS1 MAF. Set the "MAF WOT" knob to "0" for now (not rich or lean). Reset the ECU, and then drive the car as I explained for Fast4Ward (varying conditions from idle to moderate acceleration). Stay away from WOT for now. This process will get the ECU to re-learn your new MAF sensor and translator.
Now, after you've driven for a while, are your BLM's settling to values somewhat close to 128? Use the powerlogger software to look at all of your BLM's, not just the one you see at idle.
I don't have a powerlogger, so I'm not sure if I can read your file. I am old school in that I have DirectScan - maybe the file will open in DS? I will try after work today.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Novi 331... How about starting your own thread. That way, folks don't end up w/ confusing info...
I started this one! Not sure how it got a little off topic. Anyway, I looked at the MAF and saw that it didnt have the screen. I went to the bone yard and got a LT1 3" MAF, set the translator to "3", and the car is not getting near the knock. I have seen 2 degees of knock after the wheels start spinning. I am going to get another powerlogger file and post it up to see if there are any other issues.
Scratch the above.. Ran a Challenger tonight and saw 18 on the scanmaster.. I am about to sell the translator/MAFs and get a remanufactured MAF unit from Kirban.. The only other thing is the fuel. The car runs E85, maybe we have crap fuel here in south Florida.. Other than that, I have no idea.. The Challenger was a 70s model with a 528 big block, we ran neck and neck.. The first run was from 45-90, I got no knock. The second was from a 15mph, lots of tire spin and 18.8 degrees on the scanmaster. Good running little Buick, as long as it doesn't explode..
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