Bob Bailey ignition module
- Thread starter we4Mateo
- Start date
Thanks for the help yesterday. Pretty straightforward install. The top plate mounted with #1 coil towards the drivers side gives you plenty of length to reach #1 plug with the supplied Magnecor wires. With it the other way (having both plug connectors on the same side) the #1 wire barely reaches using the longest wire.
The code 37 came up right away, but Bob sent a fix which resolved it. The code is very easy to see from the tach, pretty cool. This should be very useful for finding cam/crank sensor problems.
Initial results show I'm running a richer on the TR6 setup after some WOT blasts. Looks like I could have had a miss on the stock ignition setup that I didn't even know about. When I get some runs/logs to verify I'll post up.
The code 37 came up right away, but Bob sent a fix which resolved it. The code is very easy to see from the tach, pretty cool. This should be very useful for finding cam/crank sensor problems.
Initial results show I'm running a richer on the TR6 setup after some WOT blasts. Looks like I could have had a miss on the stock ignition setup that I didn't even know about. When I get some runs/logs to verify I'll post up.
Just put my TR-6 on today. My impression is very positive. Idle is smoother, throttle response is better and the car does feel stronger.
I believe I'm the first Hotair with the TR-6.
Here are a few things other hotair owners need to know if considering this module.
1) You'll need the Casper Electronics 84/85 to 86/87 ignition module adapter plate if you don't already have one.
2) The Casper Electronics 84/85 to 86/87 ignition conversion harness with hotwire.
3) 4 additional bolts for the bottom of the TR-6 ignition module. This allows the module to sit high enough to clear the upper radiator hose holder on the mounting bracket.
The only problem I see is knowing if there are any trouble codes. It's not a 84/85 problem, it's a digital dash issue since there's not a tach to show the codes.
Very pleased with the results so far. Thanks Bob
I believe I'm the first Hotair with the TR-6.
Here are a few things other hotair owners need to know if considering this module.
1) You'll need the Casper Electronics 84/85 to 86/87 ignition module adapter plate if you don't already have one.
2) The Casper Electronics 84/85 to 86/87 ignition conversion harness with hotwire.
3) 4 additional bolts for the bottom of the TR-6 ignition module. This allows the module to sit high enough to clear the upper radiator hose holder on the mounting bracket.
The only problem I see is knowing if there are any trouble codes. It's not a 84/85 problem, it's a digital dash issue since there's not a tach to show the codes.
Very pleased with the results so far. Thanks Bob
Attachments
should be plenty of room. The TR6 box does not cover the rear bolt hole in the mounting bracket.
Bob
turbodave231
Moderator
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
I have my car running in Sequential using LS truck style coils. I was getting a resync error code when I had a voltmeter on the cam signal wire. It looks like that module was pissed off about that. I removed my jumper and everything is OK. I have my crank signal and cam signals run in ABS coax with the drain wire grounded to the firewall. I should not have any noise issues on these 2 signals. I'll post a video when I can retrieve my camera.
the power feed and ground to the sensors run like stock? You should ground the drain wire to the engine, although coax is not necessary, and teflon insulated coax is piezoelectric and generates small amounts of noise when flexed.
Bob
Bob
turbodave231
Moderator
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Yes, power and ground are run unshielded. Only the signal wire(s) are coax. I used wheel speed sensor coax that was common on 86-90 C&H bodies with Teves II ABS. I don't think it has any teflon in the insulation. I had it grounded at both the engine block and the firewall. I found out that that is also a bad idea and could actually act like an antenna. I cut loose the wrong one? Why would the engine block be better than a body ground? No big deal, easy fix. Do you think this is robust or overkill?
