So I finally got to pulling out the heads... And thankfully the guy who owned it last didn't lie!! Ported heads, new pistons - and it's been machined! Looks super clean. Regardless, I'm still pulling engine out. Taking heads to a well known shop in town to see if heads have any cracks or anything minor.
Blown head gaskets
- Thread starter MAK507
- Start date
GNONYX
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2009
Do have a boost gauge?
If so what was the boost pressure #?
Do you know if the wastegate rod is stock or and adjustable type?
GNONYX
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2009
It's a shame with the blown head gasket, but when you do the repairs and running again, get yourself another boost gauge, and decide if you still want to have an adjustable boost control.
I notice you haven't created a Sig. on your engine, you might want to let us know if your TR is all stock, and if not is it possible to list the modification
I notice you haven't created a Sig. on your engine, you might want to let us know if your TR is all stock, and if not is it possible to list the modification
pmoore4321
Member
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2010
If you can turn a wrench, I think you are wise to pull the engine and go through it.
Yup. Exactly what I'm doing. Gotta get a motor stand.
Mike T
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 3, 2013
About 10 years ago I blew both of my head gaskets like that due to the wategate hose coming off. Did the heads, a little port work & gaskets, the car ran good but had a very slight rattle. Five years later when I decided to pull it & go through it I noticed at tdc one piston was tilted by about .030 to the deck. When the rods were sent out to be resized two of them were found to be bent, this was caused by very heavy detonation. If you looked at the rods from the side they were bent in two areas just below the piston pin & above the crank pin (a very slight s shape). If you will notice the offset rod design the piston was pushed down on the longer side of the offset. Wish I had caught this back then because I think it wore the block, at .020 over these two cylinder just barely cleaned up.
Sounds good I'll definitely have to check all that. I'd be pretty disappointed getting this baby back up and running just to have her die again.
Any way of draining the old water/coolant/oil out of the engine without having her fully operational again? I'm pulling the oil pan this week. Sucks, I haven't had any time to work on her so it's just been sitting there with all that junk in there!!
Mike T
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 3, 2013
If you are pulling the pan this week and already have the top end apart, just pull the engine , don't make more work for yourself. For now just drain the pan, towel dry the cylinder's, pour a little oil in each one and turn the engine by hand a couple of times. Don't worry about the oil in the cooling passages right now that won't hurt a thing.
turbodave231
Moderator
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
As a suggestion, when you have the engine apart, Inspect for main cap fretting. That is when metal transfers from the block to the cap. It looks like little craters in the cap or block where the two pieces come together. Fretting is a result of the cap moving on the block due to detonation. Have the block magnafluxed in the main cap area. Cracks will develop in the bolt hole areas that may not be visible without magnaflux. The engine in the picture was running when it was disassembled. It had 6 bent rods!!!! If this block had been reused, it would have been a timebomb.
Your block is already drilled and tapped with coolant drain plugs on each back. Look at the side of the block just above where the dipstick enters. You'll see a brass colored square plug. There is another one on the other side. Pull those out and you'll drain all the coolant out of the block.
Your block is already drilled and tapped with coolant drain plugs on each back. Look at the side of the block just above where the dipstick enters. You'll see a brass colored square plug. There is another one on the other side. Pull those out and you'll drain all the coolant out of the block.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
What Dave said^^^^^^^^
Antifreeze in the cooling system....Engine out, look at the brgs. They WILL take a hit.
Antifreeze in the cooling system....Engine out, look at the brgs. They WILL take a hit.
Mike T
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 3, 2013
would not have believed that rods could be bent by detonation until my experience with it, I bet more than a few are running around right now.
turbodave231
Moderator
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Mike,
First, the engine pictured was not mine, I took it in trade. I was shocked......I've blown a few HGs before but had never seen rods bend like that!! All 6!! One rod was bent so badly that you can see the bend without the need for the checking fixture. I use that set of rods with my students to show them how to use the Sunnen checking fixture.
This is what happens when you upgrade the head gasket sealing and allow detonation to happen
First, the engine pictured was not mine, I took it in trade. I was shocked......I've blown a few HGs before but had never seen rods bend like that!! All 6!! One rod was bent so badly that you can see the bend without the need for the checking fixture. I use that set of rods with my students to show them how to use the Sunnen checking fixture.
This is what happens when you upgrade the head gasket sealing and allow detonation to happen
I drove my car with four "fairly" bent rods and two "kinda" bent rods for 2k miles! I didn't race it as I knew something was up, but it ran great, even boosted it a few times. Had the rods straightened with pistons still attached and threw it all back in. I'm working on engine 2.0, but I have 50+ passes on the rebuild and drove it to BG last year and back.
