New engine

[TireFryer]

So, I think I’ve posted before, but my engine is tired. Very tired. It smokes out the tailpipes hot and puffs a ton on a hot start. Noticed my oil pressure cruising is starting to fall. It was 95° yesterday so it just might be hot oil… I’m going to take the downpipe off and check the turbo seal to make sure that’s not the smoking.

New engine.
-Forged .030 trw pistons
-Stock rods and crank/mains
-Champion ported iron heads w/extra big valves
-Champion port matched intake
-ARP main studs, rod bolts, and head studs
-Steve V’s front cover
-210/215 roller cam (when I can find one)
-Need advice for head gaskets and a timing chain set
Probably forgetting stuff but that’s what it’s looking like right now. I’d want to run bottom 11’s and high 10’s if I turn it up, is this reasonable on stock rods and crank/mains with arp hardware and hood heads cam and pistons? I’ll eventually built the tired motor to a all forged stroker after college. Ideas? Input? Anything helps. Thanks

 

[TireFryer]

And.. if it is the turbo… rebuild the te62? Or go to something like. 6262, 6265 or something like that? JB or BB. I have the converter for either (a 3200 stall multidisc lockup vigilante). Next time I have the trans built it’s going to Janice and getting a PTC or Dave Husek converter

 

['87 Turbo "T"]

I’m aware of the financial aspect of your post, but I must ask why not just do it all forged at once instead of pulling it apart & doing it twice. Seems like added work & expense.

Can get a forged rotating assembly for $2kish….since you’re already doing forged pistons. The billet main caps(x2) are fairly cheap.

You seem to have the top end sorted away. I’m just a person that says if it’s apart, just do it once so hopefully it’s done for good. Again, I know your young & budget comes into play.

Steve V is doing a forged short block for me over the winter so I can to E85 & hopefully not have to worry for a while. I’m just looking for 11’s on my end.

 

[TireFryer]

I’m aware of the financial aspect of your post, but I must ask why not just do it all forged at once instead of pulling it apart & doing it twice. Seems like added work & expense.

Can get a forged rotating assembly for $2kish….since you’re already doing forged pistons. The billet main caps(x2) are fairly cheap.

You seem to have the top end sorted away. I’m just a person that says if it’s apart, just do it once so hopefully it’s done for good. Again, I know your young & budget comes into play.

Steve V is doing a forged short block for me over the winter so I can to E85 & hopefully not have to worry for a while. I’m just looking for 11’s on my end.

I currently can’t afford a 15k forged short block. So I figured why not toss in a solid “mildly built” one in that I already have and then have the numbers matching one built up later. Either way. I’m not set on anything. I just don’t want to be scared to drive the car. Cuz every time I drive it im worried it’s just gonna blow.

 

['87 Turbo "T"]

I completely understand that. If it makes you feel better I’ll be no where near that with my short block.

I do have ported irons, TA front cover, ported throttle body, etc, already so I can re-use that stuff.

I do want to upgrade to 30 spline axles though…..

 

[WarWagon]

I like the ultimate seal on RJC head gasket kit with 4 bolt iron heads but it's not forgiving of tune issues. I suggest Felpro 9441PT gaskets for iron heads, they will blow before the rest. Timing chains/gears Rollmaster or JP performance are the best in double row style ran without a tensioner. You didn't mention it but it's important , get proper valve springs for the cam you will use.

 

['87 Turbo "T"]

I like the ultimate seal on RJC head gasket kit with 4 bolt iron heads but it's not forgiving of tune issues. I suggest Felpro 9441PT gaskets for iron heads, they will blow before the rest. Timing chains/gears Rollmaster or JP performance are the best in double row style ran without a tensioner. You didn't mention it but it's important , get proper valve springs for the cam you will use.

 

['87 Turbo "T"]

I concur. For me since I’m not a seasoned tuner I use the Fel-Pro. Easier for me to change head gaskets that motor internals.

 

[TireFryer]

Yeah I have stuff to reuse. Maybe I’ll just wait. Not sure. And yeah I’m going to get a good timing set and I’ll keep the fel pro style gaskets

 

[Nigel]

So you have a spare short block? And you have a set of ported heads? Is the Buick your main work transportation?
Money is relative. A short block can be had for a reasonable cost if you have the ability to do the rest.

 

[TurboTGuy]

Lou Czarnota almost always has a MUCH better than stock, "stock" engine on a stand for sale in his shop.

You should call him.

Then you can take your time building the engine you want.

 

[chris romani]

I like the ultimate seal on RJC head gasket kit with 4 bolt iron heads but it's not forgiving of tune issues. I suggest Felpro 9441PT gaskets for iron heads, they will blow before the rest. Timing chains/gears Rollmaster or JP performance are the best in double row style ran without a tensioner. You didn't mention it but it's important , get proper valve springs for the cam you will use.

Forget the Felpro 9441’s for our Cars.Spoke to a Felpro Rep and he told me there not Recommended for the Turbo Buicks anymore.I built a Motor with a BMS Crank and Diamond Pistons with Steel Caps and did the Graphite Gaskets for the Safety Fuse not to harm the Bottom End.Running the Car on a Safe Tune 0 Knock at 25psi with ALKY and they Started giving up until the final Blowout on 6.The can’t hold Cylinder Pressure at all above Stock Boost.

 

[TireFryer]

Forget the Felpro 9441’s for our Cars.Spoke to a Felpro Rep and he told me there not Recommended for the Turbo Buicks anymore.I built a Motor with a BMS Crank and Diamond Pistons with Steel Caps and did the Graphite Gaskets for the Safety Fuse not to harm the Bottom End.Running the Car on a Safe Tune 0 Knock at 25psi with ALKY and they Started giving up until the final Blowout on 6.The can’t hold Cylinder Pressure at all above Stock Boost.

I have the 9441 pt… I wonder if that’s where my random coolant weepage on the ground is coming from. 24 psi alky. I’ll be switching to a different gasket.

Lou Czarnota almost always has a MUCH better than stock, "stock" engine on a stand for sale in his shop.

You should call him.

Then you can take your time building the engine you want.

I’ll call him definitely

So you have a spare short block? And you have a set of ported heads? Is the Buick your main work transportation?
Money is relative. A short block can be had for a reasonable cost if you have the ability to do the rest.

Yes. I have a spare short block with forged pistons and arp hardware in it. Yes I have a set of champion heads sitting on the shelf. No it’s a weekend cruiser. I have a gas sipper as a daily.
I just want a reliable 450-500 horse motor without worrying about blowing it up

 

[TurboTGuy]

I’ll call him definitely

949.378.1590

Tell him Guy sent you.

He can be sorta grumpy, don't let that out you off.......

 

[TurboTGuy]

put you off.....

949.378.1590

Tell him Guy sent you.

He can be sorta grumpy, don't let that out you off.......

....Put you off......

 

[hensleyt]

I wish I had a spear short block like that about 8 years ago. I do have one now. I believe what you have will be a good replacement tell you get your numbers matching done right. FelPro has been a good fit for me. I do prefer the Victor Reinz but they no longer manufacture head gasketfor the 3.8 . Rollmaster has been good to me too that suggested came to me from Nick at Arizona GN. We see lots of MLS gaskets on everything today and my two Japanese cars have them, but both surfaces must be almost perfect. your heads will be, the block in the pic looks good.

 

[Nigel]

I have the 9441 pt… I wonder if that’s where my random coolant weepage on the ground is coming from. 24 psi alky. I’ll be switching to a different gasket.

I’ll call him definitely

Yes. I have a spare short block with forged pistons and arp hardware in it. Yes I have a set of champion heads sitting on the shelf. No it’s a weekend cruiser. I have a gas sipper as a daily.
I just want a reliable 450-500 horse motor without worrying about blowing it up

If you are confident in the condition of the spare, by all means put it in. The stock parts can handle 400 to 500 HP.
Be smart with the way you tune it and drive it, and build the original right while you are getting some fun and experience with the car.

 

[626gn]

I’ll throw this out there for consideration not really knowing if it matters or makes sense…

We’ve all been watching values of these cars go through the roof lately. The closer to stock they are the more money they seem to bring (you have a WH1 car making it even more rare). Some even go as far as to take their modified car and return it back as close as possible to stock when it comes time to sell just because of the extra money it brings. In light of this, I would be inclined not to build a forged stroker using my numbers matching block. If anything I’d do it with the spare block instead. Maybe it doesn’t matter, I don’t know. But I do know if we all had the gift of foresight, we all would have begged, borrowed, or stole the money to buy a GNX when prices were “reasonable” and turn it around for a nice profit. Last couple I saw just sold for well over 200K

If the spare engine you have now is built right, no reason it can’t hit your stated goals and live with a good tune.

For what its worth, my builder recommended cometic gaskets but its important to get the mating surfaces flat, if not use something else. For the timing chain, the one using the iwis chain is the bee’s knees. Good luck whatever you decide.

 

[Mr.Spool]

So, I think I’ve posted before, but my engine is tired. Very tired. It smokes out the tailpipes hot and puffs a ton on a hot start. Noticed my oil pressure cruising is starting to fall. It was 95° yesterday so it just might be hot oil… I’m going to take the downpipe off and check the turbo seal to make sure that’s not the smoking.

New engine.
-Forged .030 trw pistons
-Stock rods and crank/mains
-Champion ported iron heads w/extra big valves
-Champion port matched intake
-ARP main studs, rod bolts, and head studs
-Steve V’s front cover
-210/215 roller cam (when I can find one)
-Need advice for head gaskets and a timing chain set
Probably forgetting stuff but that’s what it’s looking like right now. I’d want to run bottom 11’s and high 10’s if I turn it up, is this reasonable on stock rods and crank/mains with arp hardware and hood heads cam and pistons? I’ll eventually built the tired motor to a all forged stroker after college. Ideas? Input? Anything helps. Thanks View attachment 356224 View attachment 356225 View attachment 356226 View attachment 356227 View attachment 356228

Compression test the motor and leak it down to actually see what is tired or not.
Could be the turbo but why guess.
Your goal is an easy one and you dont need much in terms of a build,but need to set the car up correctly with the right parts.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

I remember Bison posting on here he wished he could get every short block from the factory he could get his hands on. There's guy up in Canada that put a gaziilion passes on 2 stock short blocks over 17 years. Mr Spool, Bison and that moron up in Canada know you can run a shitload of HP all day long through a stock short block. All you gotta do is stay out of KR.

Follow MR Spools tests he's asking. If the turbo is fukd then go with a 6262. For shits and giggles I''d have that Vig cut open. If it's a 5-7 multidisc, I'd likely go with it if it's okay and ask Eric what MPH to lock it at. There's a local up here that went 10.3 at 134 with a locked 2800 Vig. MPH tells me it's a very low slip percentage. Other option I'd give myself is the PTC 9.5 NL.