New engine almost completed

TireFryer

The New Kid
So. I’m almost ready to get my new engine together. Last piece is the cam and valvetrain system. Even though full throttle has them on the site, do they not have them?
Engine will have

Champion ported iron heads
Port matched intake
210/215 roller cam
Steve V front cover
RJC headgaskets
Stock crank and rods
.030 over trw forged pistons
Steel center caps (line hone)
New bearings and arp rod bolts and main studs
Head studs
And more

Rest of the car is in my sig, 3200 vig converter and a te62. Pump gas alky car. Just need to get a stupid cam:cry:

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TurboWh1

Well-Known Member
Should be a very solid performing engine. Yeah, I recall speaking with Mike at Full Throttle mid summer.... He said new Comp cams are nearly impossible to get. Doesn't sound like that has changed.
 

Jonasterg

Active Member
Took me 9+ months to get a billet roller, faster to have another kid! Hope things are a little faster by now.
 

TireFryer

The New Kid
No idea. Are they not good? It’s a rebuilt engine with like 500 miles on it. I got it for a deal because the car caught on fire. I’m just adding my own valvetrain and steel center caps in it. I have my own top end as previously stated as well
 

SCOOBY DOO

I'M NOT A MONSTER, I'M JUST AHEAD OF THE CURVE!!!
Be aware that when you align hone a block it takes the same amount of 'meat' from the block and the caps, so it brings the cam/crank closer together so you'll possibly need a shorter chain if you're not running a stock type of chain/gears. Pistons are fine for what you're gonna do. I ran with a stock bottom end. Is that convertor a multidisc? I think they go up to a 7 disc. If so, get Eric to lock the convertor via his chip for WOT.
 

TireFryer

The New Kid
Love everything but the converter and turbo but it will work, i hope its a 0 pump 5 disc Vig and not an old rock grinding 7 disc
It’s a 5 disc. I’ll get a new chip and have him lock it at wot. I got the te62 and the converter for 500$ so. That’s why I have it. I’m in college and don’t have 3k for a turbo and converter right now. The trans has an 11 (or maybe 7) vane pump I think.. I’ll look at the build sheet when I go home this weekend. My question is. If the engine is already together, is it worth adding steel caps? Does it make that much of a difference? Or would I be fine just. Finding a cam and running it as stated in the original post, just without the steel caps?
 

SCOOBY DOO

I'M NOT A MONSTER, I'M JUST AHEAD OF THE CURVE!!!
It’s a 5 disc. I’ll get a new chip and have him lock it at wot. I got the te62 and the converter for 500$ so. That’s why I have it. I’m in college and don’t have 3k for a turbo and converter right now. The trans has an 11 (or maybe 7) vane pump I think.. I’ll look at the build sheet when I go home this weekend. My question is. If the engine is already together, is it worth adding steel caps? Does it make that much of a difference? Or would I be fine just. Finding a cam and running it as stated in the original post, just without the steel caps?
If the engine is out, then I'd pull the pan and have a look at the main and rod bearings. A hint of KR can bring the bearings down to the copper pretty quick. I bought a slightly used engine from a local, and sure enuf upon inspection several rod bearings were down to the copper.
 

SCOOBY DOO

I'M NOT A MONSTER, I'M JUST AHEAD OF THE CURVE!!!
My engines were magnafluxed and assembled by a trusted builder, so I had no qualms to commence beatings on the stock bottom ends.
 

TireFryer

The New Kid
The engine is out. On a pallet. I’ll take a look. But I’ll just get the caps and have it all done with fresh bearings. The builder is a guy who’s build 4500 hp motors and has lots of experience with our Buick engines (he had a 4.1 gn back in the day). I’m going to have the rotating assembly balanced as well.
 

Turbo Archie

Active Member
First, you can't line hone steel caps.
Second, if done right, little block material is removed and doesn't need a smaller chain.
Third, older TRW pistons were just stock replacement and heavy AF to avoid a re-balance. (thats why I asked how heavy)
With those pistons you should run a stock cam and main caps, "or" with that cam install steel caps and better (lighter) pistons.
 

SCOOBY DOO

I'M NOT A MONSTER, I'M JUST AHEAD OF THE CURVE!!!
Second, if done right, little block material is removed and doesn't need a smaller chain.

You're absolutely correct. With an align bore you take the max from the caps, and minumum from the block.
 

Ttype6

Well-Known Member
So. I’m almost ready to get my new engine together. Last piece is the cam and valvetrain system. Even though full throttle has them on the site, do they not have them?
Engine will have

Champion ported iron heads
Port matched intake
210/215 roller cam
Steve V front cover
RJC headgaskets
Stock crank and rods
.030 over trw forged pistons
Steel center caps (line hone)
New bearings and arp rod bolts and main studs
Head studs
And more

Rest of the car is in my sig, 3200 vig converter and a te62. Pump gas alky car. Just need to get a stupid cam:cry:

View attachment 389481
I hate the idea of buying an engine from someone. I want to know exactly what the compression ratio is. Those pistons are not only heavy, which is not a problem, but they have a shorter than stock compression height, which is my only complaint about them because it moves the pistons farther down in the holes. This lowers the compression ratio. The reason they do that is to make them more universal with the idea being that you can cut the decks to achieve the desired compression ratio. I don't want to remove any more material than necessary to keep the decks as thick as possible for strength. The proper way to achieve compression is to remove only enough material to square the decks, then measure the volume of the combustion chambers and head gaskets and then chose a piston with a combustion height and dish volume that gives you the compression ratio that you want. Along with the lower compression height of these pistons, you probably have dished faces on you valves to decrease their weight. This also lowers compression ratio because it increases the volume of the combustion chambers. I used these pistons many years ago with flat faced valve and gave no thought to measuring things. to figure out what my compression ratio was. I did measure everything when I disassembled that engine before I assembled my new engine and I found that the compression ratio was 7.88/1. None of this is bad, but it's not ideal. It will make plenty of power. Measure to see how far your pistons are down in the hole.

The converter you bought is a good one, but you will want to send it to Dave Husek so he can do his modifications to it. If you don't do this , it will have a ridiculous amount of slip during WOT operation. I ran this converter both ways, so I can attest to the difference his modification make. My car scared me for the first time after i had him modify mine because it accelerated so much faster because of the greatly improved coupling. It acts the same way under normal driving as it did befor he modified it.
 

TireFryer

The New Kid
So. I’ll measure the pistons when I get home later, and I need to send the converter to Husek..? I do notice that it seems to just rev to the moon under wot. I’ll take a powerlogger file and upload it so you can see what the rpm’s are doing.
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