Battery relocating to trunk kit
- Thread starter evil666
- Start date
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
One thing to add: THE FRAME IS NOT GROUND. On our cars the body is ground, not the frame, so if you don't run a negative cable from the battery forward to the engine block, ground it to the sheet metal in the trunk not the frame..............
Since this thread was resurrected from the past, I would like to add a couple comments.
I fully agree, the frame is NOT and good ground, and neither is the body for critical items like fuel pump, computer, boost controller and the like. These items should have a ground DIRECTLY to the battery, even if it is via a common remote terminal post.
We have recently cured many "gremlins" in the electrical system, especially in race cars, by doing a proper wiring distribution system.
As far as a rear firewall, most tracks NHRA or not, want the battery in a proper box or a fire wall. My opinion, it is certainly a safety item, and would want it in my car even on the street as it is a simple and inexpensive item.
T- Type Tim
Vice Chairman
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2001
"Just cut the small brown wire that plugs into the back of the alternator, and run one end all the way back to the switch and then back forward to the aternator. You only need 14ga. for this wiring. It is very simple and it WILL shut the engine off when the switch is tripped."Just use the listed Moroso switch (double pole single throw) and wire the altenator field wire to it, and you're set.
does this mean that you only wired this wire to the switch and nothing else? I f so , has the car passed tech like this? Sorry to ressurect this thread but its time i get this done.
does this mean that you only wired this wire to the switch and nothing else? I f so , has the car passed tech like this? Sorry to ressurect this thread but its time i get this done.
If you put 12 volts to that brown wire, you'll destroy the regulator in the alternator. That brown wire is supposed to go to the VOLTS lamp. If you use the separate switch on the battery cutoff, you need to run two wires to that switch; one goes back to the alternator, the other goes to the engine harness wire. Basically, you cut into that brown wire and tee it off to the switch in the rear. It's low current, so 16 gage wire is just fine.
Also, be sure the VOLTS lamp works, otherwise, the alternator won't produce voltage.
Also, be sure the VOLTS lamp works, otherwise, the alternator won't produce voltage.
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2003
if you use a double pole switch (four contacts) the field wire works if wired through the second pole
i used a single pole flaming river remote switch and ran a 6awg from the alternator output post to a distribution block on the fender ( to power my pumps and my highbeams) then ran to the positive battery post. when you throw the switch the battery is cutoff and the alternator cant feed the system and the car with shutoff
i used a single pole flaming river remote switch and ran a 6awg from the alternator output post to a distribution block on the fender ( to power my pumps and my highbeams) then ran to the positive battery post. when you throw the switch the battery is cutoff and the alternator cant feed the system and the car with shutoff
Correct. If you look at Welding cable and Battery cable, yes they are both multi stranded, but look closer. Welding cable has hundreds of very small strands, as compared to just a couple dozen or so larger strands in the Battery cable.
It has to do with the most efficient method of current flow in AC compared to DC. One solid conductor would be the most ideal for DC,but obviously in not very practical in most cases.
AC seems to love the heavilly packed multi stranded cables that are common in welding.
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2003
more myths and wivestales
if the wire wasnt going to be moved solid would be the best , you cant always work with a solid because it doesnt bend easy so you try to run as big a strand as is feasible for the usage , heavy wire (over 10awg) cant always be solid because it becomes difficult to bend and feed through conduit or work inside a box so by going with a stranded wire , the more strands the more flexible the wire will be
its not about dc but is about amps ,welding cables have to carry a lot of amps because they are basically a controlled short . 1/2" solid wire would carry more amps than 1/2 stranded but the reason for the fine strand is the wire has to be flexible for the worker because its subject to lots of movement and bends and twists in everyday use without breaking the strands ,
the reason not to use it is the welding wire jacket is softer rubber for all weather flexibility but being rubber its not usually resistant to oils , ozone and such that will break down the rubber jacket
cables designed for battery will have a tougher jacket and the strands wont be as fine because the wire wont see much flex movement or need to be extremely flexible
if the wire wasnt going to be moved solid would be the best , you cant always work with a solid because it doesnt bend easy so you try to run as big a strand as is feasible for the usage , heavy wire (over 10awg) cant always be solid because it becomes difficult to bend and feed through conduit or work inside a box so by going with a stranded wire , the more strands the more flexible the wire will be
its not about dc but is about amps ,welding cables have to carry a lot of amps because they are basically a controlled short . 1/2" solid wire would carry more amps than 1/2 stranded but the reason for the fine strand is the wire has to be flexible for the worker because its subject to lots of movement and bends and twists in everyday use without breaking the strands ,
the reason not to use it is the welding wire jacket is softer rubber for all weather flexibility but being rubber its not usually resistant to oils , ozone and such that will break down the rubber jacket
cables designed for battery will have a tougher jacket and the strands wont be as fine because the wire wont see much flex movement or need to be extremely flexible
John...I'm not a pro at this for certain, however, I wired my alternator with the brown wire running from the alternator direct to the disconnect where I jumped the opposite side of the switched alt. circuit to the hot side battery terminal via a short 10a fuse holder. I haven't had it out of the garage yet but it has fired up and charges at 14v.
I 've looked at diagrams from Alldata and the Buick shop manual that "appear" to show 12v going to the alternator via the indicator lamp. Does the cluster circuit board change the voltage? Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong on this!
Mark
The resistor is simply a safeguard to keep the alternator charging in the event that the bulb burns out.
I can assure you I'm correct in stating that a raw 12 volts on the L terminal (brown wire) will definitely kill the regulator. The bulb filament itself provides a current limiting to the brown wire.
Remember, when you turn your ignition key on, and don't start the car, the VOLTS light comes on? One side of that bulb is 12 volts - the alternator side is a ground. That's why the bulb lights. If you put raw 12 volts into that brown wire, and the regulator provides the ground, what do you think will happen to the (grounding) regulator when you force it to raw 12 volts?
I can assure you I'm correct in stating that a raw 12 volts on the L terminal (brown wire) will definitely kill the regulator. The bulb filament itself provides a current limiting to the brown wire.
Remember, when you turn your ignition key on, and don't start the car, the VOLTS light comes on? One side of that bulb is 12 volts - the alternator side is a ground. That's why the bulb lights. If you put raw 12 volts into that brown wire, and the regulator provides the ground, what do you think will happen to the (grounding) regulator when you force it to raw 12 volts?
T- Type Tim
Vice Chairman
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2001
if you use a double pole switch (four contacts) the field wire works if wired through the second pole
so if i do this only with the double pole moroso switch listed at 65 bux ....switching the brown field wire on and off with no 12 v hooked up to the other poles of the switch or applied at any time this will shut the car down wilhile running and pass tech at the track?
thanks again . John i have your prints of how to do this , but if i can simplify it by running the field wire thru a field innerupt switch only , i would go that route if possible.
so if i do this only with the double pole moroso switch listed at 65 bux ....switching the brown field wire on and off with no 12 v hooked up to the other poles of the switch or applied at any time this will shut the car down wilhile running and pass tech at the track?
thanks again . John i have your prints of how to do this , but if i can simplify it by running the field wire thru a field innerupt switch only , i would go that route if possible.