I have done a "few" in my day. Here are some tips that may help you. The batttery MUST be attached to the frame to be NHRA legal, though they will usually never check were the bolts go to on a 10.00 or slower car. The battery disconnect switch must be installed at the rear of the car and installed on the positive cable. There MUST be a firewall behind the rear seat AND under the package tray, or you must use a SEALED battery box that is vented to the outside. You must use 3/8" diameter bolts to hold the battery down. (no plumbers tape/metal strap allowed) Use quality battery cable or welding cable in the #2 or larger size. The disconnect switch MUST shut the car OFF if the switch is activated (they DO check this often). So, you'll need a switch with a field interrupt feature for the alternator. The positive cable should be sleeve wrapped and run through the frame rail up to the starter. There is a hole in the frame almost exactly were the starter terminal is, but it needs to be opened up a little bit after you remove a brake line clamp. Just bend the brake line up about 1/2" and you're there. I also slide a piece of heater hose over the cable at this point to help prevent rubbing through the insulation. Welding cable is very expensive but is VERY flexible. Regular battery cable works fine though. Tie wrap/clamp the cable securely.
I removed the spare tire and welded a plate to the bottom of the spare tire well and mounted an Optima battery in it. I also fabbed and installed a cover for the tire well and vented it to the outside so it is NHRA legal.
Use grommets everywhere you go through metal with the cable. PCV valve grommets are bigger and thicker than standard electrical grommets and they are available from any parts store.
You will have to splice a new power lead for the ECM, as the factory battery cable will not be used. (unless you buy a fake battery and keep the stock cable for that stealth look) Be sure to us 8ga. wire between the alternator and the battery terminal, as 10 ga. wire just won't cut it IF the alternator has to provide 120 amps.
Here is the battery box that I would suggest for you. Be sure to mount it with 3/8" bolts to the frame rail, or if you feel lucky, you can mount it under the package tray on the passenger side.
Mounting the battery in the trunk has the same effect as moving the engine back about 10", BUT it is NOT a 2 hour job. I spent the better part of a week building MY battery deal which, I know, is WAY over the top. It will take the better part of a week-end to do, even with a Moroso battery box. There just isn't a fast way to do it. If you are a serious racer, then it's worth the trouble, but if you are not, then buy a light weight battery and leave it alone. I HAD to move my battery, as I used the battery location for my Alky tank, otherwise I would have left it. I was short on time and didn't want to spend the required time to do it my way.
Here is a list of the parts you'll need to do te job:
Battery box
Moroso Battery Box - JEGS
Disconnect switch Moroso 74101
Moroso Battery Disconnect Switch - JEGS
Cable
JEG'S Remote Battery Cable Kit - JEGS
cable sleeving for safety
Mr. Gasket Flex Wire Covering - JEGS
electrical tape (The stuff you already have in your VAST tool collection):biggrin:
assorted PCV grommets from Autozone, NAPA, PEPboys, ect.
8Ga wire for Alternator to starter lug
JEG'S Hi-Output Alternator Wiring Kit - JEGS
You wil also need assorted harware to mount the box and mount the disconnect switch. I would suggest a remote switch up grade and some ingenuity to mount the switch.
Moroso Push/Pull Battery Disconnect Kit - JEGS
OR, here is a light weight battery
Braille Batteries - JEGS
I hope this helps.
