Any Amsoil engine oil users on here?

Gary Wells

White turbo Buick trailer park trash
Joined
Mar 2, 2002
Any Amsoil engine oil users here? And why? I notice over on the "CadillacOwners" CTS-V forum section, it seems to have a pretty strong following. I can hardly afford the cost of a quart of that oil, let alone a CTS-V.
How about Amsoil oil filters too?
 
everything I have heard about Amsoil is that is it top quality stuff and worth the price if you can afford it. I cannot afford it so I cannot tell you one way or the other.
 
I was actually thinking about starting a thread about this. I used it on my 93 Nissan 240sx w/200k on the clock. On my normal trips from PA to NC I used to get about 260 mile per tank. After I changed, doing the same trip I got about 290 miles out of it on the ride up and 320 on the way back (* drove about the same pace each way).

I didnt use the Amsoil filter, but supposidly you can change the filter around 3500 miles and if the oil looks good you can still get about another 3500 miles out of it.

I am the last person to buy into gimicks, but this stuff actually worked for me. It is pricey, but then again so is gas:rolleyes: I'm going to PA this weekend so I will keep track on the mileage.

Anyone else use this stuff, not nessesarily in TB's with good results?
 
The first I heard of this stuff was a couple weeks ago when some guy from LI with a very fast car told me he swore by the stuff. It's not cheap.
 
This is a can o worms.
IMO if you have a DD and run synthetic (amsoil) in one and good quality dino oil (with zddp) in the other (same exact vehicles in same scenarios)and change the oil as required.
And at ..say....100k miles you tear the engines down and do a wear comparison your not going to see a OMG difference.

I tried Amsoil and Royal purple both in my infinti and the start up tap was teeth rattling.

Swapped back to dino Valvoline and the chatter went away.
IMO synthetics drain off more than dino.
Funny thing is the Infinti owners manuals says to not use synthetics

Just my02
Save the money and get a steak dinner or something LOL
 
Honestly think about these claims.
What exactly paying for with this expensive oil give you...seriously. The price is really up there for these oils

Dino oil has proven it self time and time again. I just cant see spending that much cash on it.
For what better detergency, better additive package, better pour point, better VI. If dino works then why change???

You can go longer on the oil changes but as noted above when I when I used Amsoil the longer interval even with the amsoil filter the oil was very dirty when changed and I never did that again.
Did I send it off for lab test ..no. But it stunk and was very black i didnt like it.
Guy I work with is actually a Amsoil vendor and he runs the extended intervals and is oil is black as tar when he drains it. And has since shortened the intervals cause he likes clean oil in his engine.

Ill keep running good quality dino in my GN just like its had since 87 and its has right at 180k on the clock and compression psi's are still good across the board and she idles quite and smooth and will run 12.20's all day.

Its just hard to argue the fact that there is millions of cars out there that are running dino and when maintained properly they run several hundred k miles.

Old saying.... goes if it works fix it till its broke... lol
 
I run nothing but Amsoil. If you use the 100% synthetic, you can go 25K without changing the oil.

I too was skeptical, but I've run Amsoil in my 03 Suburban since it was new, and I can tell you that I avg 18 to 20 mpg hwy with the ac on doing 70. The engine now has 130k and sounds like day 1. I also run amsoil in my 02 V-Star..no problems.

Yes, a quart of Amsoil will cost you about double what a quart of dino oil will cost, but if you look at it from the standpoint that you can go 25k..let's do the math

5 quarts Amsoil $35 + (2) filters @ $7 = $49 Good for 25K miles

5 quarts Dino $17 + filter @ $7 = $24 good for 5 to 7K miles, now multiply that by 3.5 times based on that fact that is how many times your going to need to change your oil to reach 25K, and your running your dino oil to 7K, your total amount spent would be $84

Now lets take that $84 minus $49, the cost for the Amsoil, and that leaves us with a savings of $35

So I ask....how are you saving money, let alone your time by going with Dino oil? Ok you may say whoa...25K on oil...don't believe me, send in a oil sample, that is what I did at first, it came back with flying colors.

My .02

Steve
 
kirban 2 cents worth

here is the deal....

ALmost every oil company is now jumping on the band wagon and coming out with a hot rod oil or oil for older cars stating they got zinc etc...thats fine they got zinc issue is its zddp not just zinc...zinc is one portion of the molecule...

If any oil carries the SM star burst it can only have 600-800 ppm...of zddp content period.

If any oil had the high levels we did it woul dhave to state on the can/bottle not for cataltyic controlle dvehicles or something to that effect.

Bottom line is, our 4ounce bottle gives you the 1,800 ppm when mixed with ANY I REPEAT any SM oil you want to use...can't get much simplier than that.

I am not stating amsoil or joe gibbs or brad penn oil is not good....I merely stating the solution we offer is the easiest to do. Its also he choice of 4 cam companies actually 5 as our other head sales guy has done a private label for a diesel truck company that makes high performance cam shafts.

It would be very difficult for a company like us to sell to a company like Isky, Crower and Erson cams....if they had any doubt about our product. All of these companies have been in business way way longer than we have.

We have a testamonial from a race shop that builds 1,000 hp engines and tears them down...loves our product....Dove largest maker in the country of roller rockers used our product in the engine challenge contest.....great results. I have proof of that also.

Its real simple when you can go to any auto store you want and buy any current sm oil you like and at the price you like and just add a simple 4 ounce bottle of zddplus....heck the guy behind it has the largest turbo buick collection in the world.

Ask the Amsoil person does it have 1,600 to 1,800 ppm of zddp in the oil?. That is what was in the oil back in 1986 if you read your visor label SF category had back then.......

kirban

If you like send me a pm with your address I wil send you a full set of all the tech info and testamonials to back everything up..

The same person behind this product also owns one of just 13 forensic dna labs in the usa....they have done their homework!
 
I run nothing but Amsoil. If you use the 100% synthetic, you can go 25K without changing the oil.

I too was skeptical, but I've run Amsoil in my 03 Suburban since it was new, and I can tell you that I avg 18 to 20 mpg hwy with the ac on doing 70. The engine now has 130k and sounds like day 1. I also run amsoil in my 02 V-Star..no problems.

Yes, a quart of Amsoil will cost you about double what a quart of dino oil will cost, but if you look at it from the standpoint that you can go 25k..let's do the math

5 quarts Amsoil $35 + (2) filters @ $7 = $49 Good for 25K miles

5 quarts Dino $17 + filter @ $7 = $24 good for 5 to 7K miles, now multiply that by 3.5 times based on that fact that is how many times your going to need to change your oil to reach 25K, and your running your dino oil to 7K, your total amount spent would be $84

Now lets take that $84 minus $49, the cost for the Amsoil, and that leaves us with a savings of $35

So I ask....how are you saving money, let alone your time by going with Dino oil? Ok you may say whoa...25K on oil...don't believe me, send in a oil sample, that is what I did at first, it came back with flying colors.

My .02

Steve

Glad you are having good results. Question.. you said you sent the oil sample in to the lab, was that on initial use or?
 
I ran it in my Sentra for about six months. I had a three hour commute per day on the interstate @ 80mph. The engine was turning 3500rpm for 3 hours everyday. I sent my oil out to blackstone on both dino and amsoil. The dino had broken down in under 3000 miles. The Sentra (02) holds a whole 2 5/8th qts of oil. I started putting the 2003 filter on it which allowed for an even 3qts. That car was a serious money maker for me, I made thousands on mileage reimbursements from it. I figured I could at least feed it something healthy. The best mileage was 48mpg for several weeks, running under amsoil while the weather was still warm.
 
I run amsoil synthetic in everything that takes oil in every car I own, be it engine, gearboxes, differentials, dirt bikes and as soon as it's time the motorcycle too. The fluid in the gearbox in my z06 was very clean and semi synthetic from the factory, but even with only ~15k the switch to amsoil made a huge difference in the way the transmission shifts. I use amsoil AMO 10-40 in the gn which has a higher zinc content and skip the zddp additive and run wix or oem filters in all my toys.
 
I did the oil analsis at 12K and 25K one the first batch of oil. I'm close to needing another change, so I plan to send it out and see where we are.

Steve
 
If you use the 100% synthetic, you can go 25K without changing the oil.
BS you go ahead & run ANY oil for 25k & then have an oil analysis done & then lets see what it says. the ONLY way you can safely do extended oil drains is to use an oil bypass filter & do regular oil analysis. there are a couple of problems running oil for long periods of time, just to name 2 are dirty oil & oil sheer.
I have run dino & 100% syn. in one of my trucks, when changing the oil after 5k miles I sent samples off to be tested. BOTH came back with the same results, change the oil.
 
BS you go ahead & run ANY oil for 25k & then have an oil analysis done & then lets see what it says. the ONLY way you can safely do extended oil drains is to use an oil bypass filter & do regular oil analysis. there are a couple of problems running oil for long periods of time, just to name 2 are dirty oil & oil sheer.
I have run dino & 100% syn. in one of my trucks, when changing the oil after 5k miles I sent samples off to be tested. BOTH came back with the same results, change the oil.

Amen
 
My personal experience: I have used only Mobil 1 in everything since I started running a Mobil station in 1993 untill 2005 and have seen nothing but good to excellent results. I have seen nothing bad other than people putting it in high mileage cars or cars with leaks already, then there were more leaks. Nature of the beast for synthetic. Re-built the rear in the GN with high quality parts then filled it with Amsiol becauase someone gave me a couple of bottles and I thought, what the hell, why not. Less than 2000 miles the posi stopped working, the axle seals seeped and all of the bearings were pitted. My buddy ran only M1 untill a rep came by his shop and "sold" him on Scamsoil. He put in his 03 Silverado that previously only saw M1 and guess what? Rear main started puking. Switched back to M1 and the leaks stopped. My .02
 
TAN = total acid number
TBN = total base number

oil drain interval is based upon TAN/TBN crossover (or exceeding a contamination limit). A given engine will consume TAN and TBN at the same rate regardless of oil type.

The typical way to get more life out of an oil is for that oil to have a higher initial TBN and lower inital TAN than other brands.

Most synthetics have initial TAN and TBN numbers very comparable to mineral oils, and subsequently have similar drain interval requirements.
 
My personal experience: I have used only Mobil 1 in everything since I started running a Mobil station in 1993 untill 2005 and have seen nothing but good to excellent results. I have seen nothing bad other than people putting it in high mileage cars or cars with leaks already, then there were more leaks. Nature of the beast for synthetic. Re-built the rear in the GN with high quality parts then filled it with Amsiol becauase someone gave me a couple of bottles and I thought, what the hell, why not. Less than 2000 miles the posi stopped working, the axle seals seeped and all of the bearings were pitted. My buddy ran only M1 untill a rep came by his shop and "sold" him on Scamsoil. He put in his 03 Silverado that previously only saw M1 and guess what? Rear main started puking. Switched back to M1 and the leaks stopped. My .02

To bounce off of this. When I was running the RP or Amsoil in the infiniti I had 1 qt low at the oil change. Back on teh dino valvoline she uses maybe a 1/8".

I know for a fact that the Eaton Posi units have a bright colored tag that specifies NOT to use SYN oils as it hampers clutch operation
Scamsoil ..thats funny
 
I ran it in my Sentra for about six months. I had a three hour commute per day on the interstate @ 80mph. The engine was turning 3500rpm for 3 hours everyday. I sent my oil out to blackstone on both dino and amsoil. The dino had broken down in under 3000 miles. The Sentra (02) holds a whole 2 5/8th qts of oil. I started putting the 2003 filter on it which allowed for an even 3qts. That car was a serious money maker for me, I made thousands on mileage reimbursements from it. I figured I could at least feed it something healthy. The best mileage was 48mpg for several weeks, running under amsoil while the weather was still warm.


Its amazing how much oil they hold. It still got 48mpg@3500rpms?
 
Its amazing how much oil they hold. It still got 48mpg@3500rpms?

Yes,

I had blocked off most of the lower front bumper, 40psi on the michellin xradials and the oil. Basically a trip from Lexington, ky to Cincinnati, oh every day for six months.
 
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