12 Degrees Knock Retard @ 13# Boost...WTF?

[TurboBuRick]

ARF is a reflection of fuel fuel pressure. If fuel pressure was dropping off, AFR would lean out. Not the case in this situation. It's gets fatter.

@ 10 psi boost you're prolly a full point richer than you should be. This could very well be rich knock. Try leaning out wot.

 

[we4Mateo]

I here ya on the octane, and i dont mind turning on the alky system...i just cant help but feel like I should be able to run 91 octane and not see KR at a measly 8# boost.

I don't want to mask an issue with a ton of methanol and unfortunately my brain is too stupid to know what to do from here

If you have too much timing, even at 8#, it'll still knock. You're getting there though by the read on the rest of the thread.

 

[zhorner]

Alright thanks everyone for giving me suggestions on what to try. As of right now my #1 priority is to figure out why my FP is randomly spiking from 40 to 65 psi. After I get that smoothed out I will look into the possibility of rich knock as recommended by Rick. Also decided to change my rear diff fluid...another one of those things I know hasn't been done in a long while so might as well knock it out for the peace of mind.

 

[GNRick]

What is your blm? I once had a huge vacuum leak that caused audible knock. Do you still have the ramchargers fans in your sig? I had those and they both failed in a couple of years.

 

[TurboDave]

What is your blm? I once had a huge vacuum leak that caused audible knock. Do you still have the ramchargers fans in your sig? I had those and they both failed in a couple of years.

Bummer! My ramchargers fans are over 14 years old, and still perfect.

 

[zhorner]

What is your blm? I once had a huge vacuum leak that caused audible knock. Do you still have the ramchargers fans in your sig? I had those and they both failed in a couple of years.

blm's are good. normally +/- 5 from 128. Ramchargers are still running strong also.

just dropped the tank and have a few questions.

#1 My hotwire (which is a larger gauge not sure exactly what size) from the alternator runs to the back of the car and plugs into a factory size wire that runs to the fuel pump. should i just run the larger size wire directly to the FP?

#2 The ground goes through the factory plug, does that need to be upgraded as well? no visible issues just want to make sure before I button everything up.

everything looks really good, gas tank is clean not corroded and FP sock is clean as well. The pulsator has been replaced with a section of rubber hose (before I bought it) and is still in good shape so I assume it was made to be submersed in gasoline. all 3 rubber hoses on the exterior look to have been replaced at some point and are in good shape.

question #3 I am getting fuel pressure spikes as soon as I am under boost...since all looks great in the tank can i assume the FP regulator is the culprit? and if so...
------is that something that can be taken apart and rebuilt or...
------is their a replacement that is just that much better?

Thanks everyone.

 

[zhorner]

FWIW I took apart the Accufab FPR and do not see any noticeable issues. Diaphragm is still pliable and looks good as well as the orange o-ring. I am obviously no expert so the question now is...should I buy I rebuild kit anyway? should I upgrade to a better unit?

not sure if ive mentioned this or not but I bought the car for $10g with a "freshly rebuilt motor and trans" and have now put another $12-13K on top of that to put another rebuilt motor and trans in it...that should have been done right the first time pretty much tired of dumping cash and time into this thing so really looking for advice here.

 

[TTA308]

^^^^^^^^^^
I would lose the Accufab regulator... may not be your problem but swap it out and see.

 

[zhorner]

^^^^^^^^^^
I would lose the Accufab regulator... may not be your problem but swap it out and see.

swap it out with what? just did a little research on this and it seams kirban's is pretty highly recommended?

 

[Pronto]

That's what I'm using now.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

"#1 My hotwire (which is a larger gauge not sure exactly what size) from the alternator runs to the back of the car and plugs into a factory size wire that runs to the fuel pump. should i just run the larger size wire directly to the FP?"

I'd get the Racetronix hanger w/ the hd wiring. Running a 12 ga to a 14/16 is a choke point.

 

[Jerryl]

FWIW I took apart the Accufab FPR and do not see any noticeable issues. Diaphragm is still pliable and looks good as well as the orange o-ring. I am obviously no expert so the question now is...should I buy I rebuild kit anyway? should I upgrade to a better unit?

not sure if ive mentioned this or not but I bought the car for $10g with a "freshly rebuilt motor and trans" and have now put another $12-13K on top of that to put another rebuilt motor and trans in it...that should have been done right the first time pretty much tired of dumping cash and time into this thing so really looking for advice here.

I would start looking at the signal line and make sure it is zip tied on all sides of not already done.

Also look at the grounds and make sure they are clean and tight.

Make sure the line in the tank is good and double clamped.

Look also at the hw fp relay and replace it.

FPR may be an issue but try the simple things first. Try to see how long it tkaes for the fp to bleed dowm after shut off and post back.
Do a search under my name for fpr and post some pics of yours if still apart.

You have already figured out that the simplest things and attention to detail will make or break these cars.

 

[zhorner]

I would start looking at the signal line and make sure it is zip tied on all sides of not already done.

Also look at the grounds and make sure they are clean and tight.

Make sure the line in the tank is good and double clamped.

Look also at the hw fp relay and replace it.

FPR may be an issue but try the simple things first. Try to see how long it tkaes for the fp to bleed dowm after shut off and post back.
Do a search under my name for fpr and post some pics of yours if still apart.

You have already figured out that the simplest things and attention to detail will make or break these cars.

I inspected it pretty good and as said above it is pliable, not cracking or crumbling anywhere. I didn't take any pics of the housing but its in great shape.

the hose in the tank is double clamped and in good condition. Zip ties will be going on the feed line as soon as I put it back together, will double check grounds as you've suggested.

Right now im trying to figure out a way to upgrade the wiring to the pump while the tank is out. Just want to make sure everything there is good to go there before moving on.

I'd get the Racetronix hanger w/ the hd wiring. Running a 12 ga to a 14/16 is a choke point.

Im on the fence about ordering the racetronix unit...I will give my current setup a close inspection and if im not confident that I can upgrade it with what I have, I will just bite the bullet and order it.

 

[zhorner]

Another thing...my hot wire plugs into a 2' section of gray wire and runs to the black wire inlet pictured below...I looked at the racetronix unit and it looks like its not going to do anything about that section of wire

 

[zhorner]

LMFAO looks like I have two separate "hot wires" running from the alternator to the fuel pump. I have a kit like pictured above, then for some reason, they cut the gray power wire from the plug at the tank and connected it to and ran a completely separate 10G wire . This car has been owned by some real turbo regal guru's in the past

 

[Jerryl]

LMFAO looks like I have two separate "hot wires" running from the alternator to the fuel pump. I have a kit like pictured above, then for some reason, they cut the gray power wire from the plug at the tank and connected it to and ran a completely separate 10G wire . This car has been owned by some real turbo regal guru's in the past

Lol. You are no alone brother. Some of the crap still surprises me.
You have the right mindset though. It will all work out.

 

[zhorner]

man here is the deal...it has 2 complete hot wire kits...one was installed correctly at the read of the car with the 10G wire ran to the alternator...the other was installed in the engine bay with the 10G wire ran to the pump and it the one that powers it. Im literally cracking up over this deal. shit is crazy because someone had to really do some riggin' to get that one installed incorrectly.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Is that an o'ring squeezing out of the center of the fpr?
Also, that system put together w/ but connectors is a red flag to me.
The ground wire under your finger looks to be really grungy.

 

[zhorner]

Is that an o'ring squeezing out of the center of the fpr?
Also, that system put together w/ but connectors is a red flag to me.
The ground wire under your finger looks to be really grungy.

No o-ring on the center of the diaphragm, their is a large orange one on the housing that goes into the fuel rail and it looks to be in good shape. I already removed that butt splice on the sending unit and soldered/heat shrinked that connection wonder how it will hold up in the tank? That ground doesn't look as bad in person, kind of dirty but still sturdy.

 

[Pronto]

That butt connecter might be part of the issue. The wires going into the sending unit bulkhead look a little scorched too. I know the Racetronix sending unit uses heavier gauge wires to the pump as well as free flowing hard pipes.