XFI Log Feedback on 10.87 pass

Just for now do a pass with lower boost and see if things smooth out, if not it could be rpm related.
 
Norbs,
Attached are two other runs of that day 'Run 3' @ 15psi boost. 'Run 4' I turned it up to 20psi. My final run was was the 10.87 pass and the first log that I posted.
Please see what you think.
 
OK, looking at the 2 logs for 15 psi log looks OK, the 20 psi log looks like your not making any power in the highlighted area, check your fuel system that it flows enough at high boost, it could be a spark blown out issue, bad coil pack or just plain the start of detonation, from the too hot plug , do one change at a time or you could be chasing your tail..

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OK, looking at the 2 logs for 15 psi log looks OK, the 20 psi log looks like your not making any power in the highlighted area, check your fuel system that it flows enough at high boost, it could be a spark blown out issue, bad coil pack or just plain the start of detonation, from the too hot plug , do one change at a time or you could be chasing your tail..

View attachment 196332

Norb,

Although his voltage is good, it should be up to 14v at full throttle. I think he has to check a couple of grounds. I don't run a volt booster and my system pushes 14v, just because I have grounds. Maybe a hotwire kit would help him also. The spark wont blow out with the TR6 AT HIS rpm. The TR6 shoots a spark at 7000rpms that is so hot and clean... Also he is running E85 without a flex fuel sender, so his fuel constant cant adjust for the E85 content. E85 octane is always changing throughout the year. His AF at 27.6# is 7.35 is about right.

Correct me if I am wrong, but his VE is really high for and XFI....... And engine is perfectly 100% efficientf when the VE is 100, but no motor is ever gonna be perfectly efficient.
 
I have brand new Racetronix dual 255lph pumps with their hotwire kit. (I know it Doesn't mean shit that they are brand new) There should be plenty of fuel. I would like to install the fuel pressure logging kit to the xfi.
I just noticed that the car immediately loses fuel pressure when I shut it off. Think that could have anything to do with it?
I was also having an issue with it breaking up a while back. Took the the plugs out and they were gapped at almost .040, re gapped to .030(i think) and it seemed to go away. Maybe my coils are bad after all? How do I test those?
 
I really doubt that the coils are bad. They are only a year old. Are you running AR133 plugs or R43? Fuel pressure drop of is probably do to the check ball in the pumps being removed.
 
I'm running CR43TS on the recommendation from Cal.

Doing some research and the previous owner had a bad coil right away. Bob Bailey tested them and found out. Here is the previous owners post and PL Log from July of last year. Sounds like it is doing the same thing now. Thoughts?

Right at 27.446 seconds into the file it starts to break up. It is at 10 psi NOT 1psi like I initially thought and at 3550-3600rpms. It doesn't completely fall on its face like if the plugs are getting blown out. More like it just doesn't pick up any power as the boost goes up. As you can see from the file MPH hardly rise with boost and rpm.
 

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CT43TS are projected tip plugs. And I am not knocking Cal. But with turbo motors and detonation, you want a non-projected tip plug to help eliminate hot spots and detonation. What size of gear are you running? High rpms and mph dropping off sounds like really low gears...


Clint

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
3.42 gear I believe. I will change the plugs to Autolite 133. Where should I start with the gap?
The PL log and his description above was in fact a bad coil. The car ran perfect until he hit 10psi boost. I'm really starting to think that's the issue. To be honest, I really dont like the LS2 coils because they cover up my nice valve covers. If it is a bad coil, it would be the second one in a year. Maybe I'll just get rid of them.
 
3.42 gear I believe. I will change the plugs to Autolite 133. Where should I start with the gap?
The PL log and his description above was in fact a bad coil. The car ran perfect until he hit 10psi boost. I'm really starting to think that's the issue. To be honest, I really dont like the LS2 coils because they cover up my nice valve covers. If it is a bad coil, it would be the second one in a year. Maybe I'll just get rid of them.


I am not saying to change the plugs. Just saying what everyone else is doing. Now you can ohm out the coils to check if bad. Email Bailey or google the specs....


Clint

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Thanks for all your help.
I've read that most people are going non-projected tip and that's why I originally asked Cal about it. There is no doubt that he knows his stuff but I certainly wouldn't think that it would hurt to go to the AR133's.
I'll see what I can find out about the coils. Thanks again
 
The autolite racing series have back cut electrodes, which maybe good for the track, but they wear out fast on the street, I had to stop using them right away. You have some iron heads holding the heat also, I would try a .028 gap if your planning to crank the boost.
 
The autolite racing series have back cut electrodes, which maybe good for the track, but they wear out fast on the street, I had to stop using them right away. You have some iron heads holding the heat also, I would try a .028 gap if your planning to crank the boost.

What do you run and recommend for the street?
 
The autolite racing series have back cut electrodes, which maybe good for the track, but they wear out fast on the street, I had to stop using them right away. You have some iron heads holding the heat also, I would try a .028 gap if your planning to crank the boost.

I just caught something. If you have coil on plug (on your valve covers) then they are LS Coils. If you have the coils on the tr6 then you have waste spark off of an 2006 V6.


Clint

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Sorry I have stage II heads but I use a NGK -8 plug with a non-projected tip, they won't fit in stock heads.
 
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