Why is a non-lockup converter better ...

Can I respectfully take exception to a couple of points?
First, I find it amazing that a 10 second car would waste a multi disc vig.!! I've been pounding the snot out of mine for well over 8 years now, and it still performs as well as it did the day it was new. Granted, I don't run a 10 second car, but still pound it pretty good with a mid/high 11 second machine.

As for not needing billet parts. I disagree, to a point. Once into the very low 12's or firmly into the 11's, there are one or two billet parts that are needed to negate the breakage that IS going to occur. The intermediate drum's input shaft in particular. It was the only way I was able to COMPLETELY stop my twice annual breakage. That and the planetary carrier.:eek:

I also find it strange that there are multi disc converters suffering "43%" slippage!!:eek: Or were you referring to singel disc units? If so, that I can believe.

Now that my regular heavy duty racing days are over, I certainly understand that I no longer need the strength of my multi disc Vig. but I certainly also WOULD NEVER run it as a daily driver on a non lock up converter. That makes no sense what-so-ever.


You can respectfully disagree. This is why we are here!
For the record, I am not bashing the Vig converter. It has proven to be a solid/durable piece. But, there are better converters out there. The "GSCA" train of thought is a bit anticquated at this point. OR, the "Red`s" way is the best way thinking. Red also did not use a Hemco upper plenum, until he was finally tired of hearing about it. He now uses one. Sorry to get off point...
You need to be outside the box sometimes to find what works best for you. The Vig never worked in my cars, so I found something that did.

The car in question did destroy the multi disc lock up clutches 2 (two) times. I understand your questioning this, but it is true none the less. The last time it packed the trans full of clutch dust/sludge.

And, as far as the billet parts, there are 3 high 9 second cars here that have no billet parts and an CPT converter. One ran for 6 years in this configuration. No parts failures. Whoever says they are necessary is MAKING those parts.
The shock load on the internals is significantly reduced with the non lock up converter. The drum may break, but with a non lock up... "usually" you are good. At least with what we are doing here.
Now, if you beat your car, on sticky tires on the street, and get alot of wheel spin... then hooking. You may/can toast the drum. But I have only seen that once on a drag radial car with a N-L. Many times with a locker.
I do agree the forward clutch drum (aka intermediate shaft) is a weak link. But, with a non locker, these failures are rare. With a tight lock up converter that is a different story. They can snap at the drop of a hat, I agree. Especially with an aggressive shift kit.

The 43% was not with a multi disc setup.

And, it makes plenty of sense to drive whatever converter YOU prefer.
You actually get more flow through a non lock up converter to help with the heat issue, due to their design. But, they will run a "little" warmer.

My choice is still a N-L.
Thanks for reading...
Brian
 
As I eluded to (I think) I never let it shift while locked either. All of my breakage occured with the stock converter of all things. :eek:

This is not uncommon at all. The stock 12in converter raises hell with an aggressive shift kit.:eek:

I did lock up my Vig while in second with my stock motor, then for the third gear shift.
But with my modded motor, I did not lock it up until third.

>>>Just some more fuel for the fire: I sheared the front off my input drum leaving a stoplight (in a 'sprited' manner, on drag radials). I never let the car shift with the converter locked.<<<


This is not uncommon occurance either. The Vig is a hardpart killer. I will not build a trans for a customer with a Vig unless it has a billet drum, minimally.

Brian
 
You can respectfully disagree. This is why we are here!
For the record, I am not bashing the Vig converter. It has proven to be a solid/durable piece. But, there are better converters out there. Brian

I agree - the Vig is the scapegoat of lockups - stall speeds are sometimes questionable - and there are better lockup units out there. There is also no doubt a non-locker is more "fun" around town.
 
Very interesting thread! I have a Vigilante 5-disc and snapped the transmission input shaft on a WOT 2-3 shift. Now I have a Brian Hofer trans, and hope it'll hold up! (Hi Brian). I should be running about 375-400rwhp so it's not a real high hp car. In the past I've picked up about .2 and 2-3mph by locking the stock convertors I've had (the car ate 4 of them). Now when I lock the TCC off the line, I can't even tell if it locks in second gear--there seems to be a delay involved and it seems to shift to 3rd before the converter locks in second--but when it hits 3rd it's like an afterburner kicking in. Is this normal for the Vig? If it's not going to lock the convertor in 2nd I'll stop forcing the lock-up off the line and wait until it hits 3rd... Easier on the trans apparently. Plus, if I have the shifter in the OD position, it shifts into OD somewhere just over 85mph at WOT. I thought they weren't supposed to shift into OD at WOT.... (?)
Keith
 
Thanks for the input, guys. Basically I want the lockup for gas mileage since my car is 98% street driven, but I've seen a few too many people have issues like Jim (plus the trans and engine wear and tear, plus I'm a cheapskate on some things :)) to be willing to pay the extra bux for a lockup converter that I can lock at wot. I just wanted to know if I was giving up a bunch of performance by using a lockup converter and not locking it, compared to a nonlockup. Sounds like I'm carrying some extra converter weight and giving up some efficiency but not a huge amount, and I guess I'm willing to give up .1 or .2 seconds to get the gas mileage. Only real issue is the lack of fluid cooling not locked up but that would only be for a few seconds a pass anyway, from 90 mph on up, and that just doesn't seem to me to be that big a problem (and Brian seems to agree).

PM me if you want. I can give you my # if you want to discuss options. Depending on your power level I have an idea of a 10" lockup that can do it all. It will be as efficient as a non lock at the track and have a single disk for interstate trips. I had a 10" non lock with bullet proof internals in my TSS car that worked very well. I'm sure I can mate that converter with a lockup to give you what you're looking for. It will be heavier than the non lock set-up but it seems you're not concerned with that as much as you drive the car.


For everyone's info. A proper non lock will give good % slip and you loose the rotating mass from the crank so the car will rpm quicker. They will be less stressful on tranny parts as well.

The only advantage I can see of a high power car running a lock up converter is you can build the converter looser to ease spool-up and then lock it at WOT for efficiency. But IMO you are loosing e.t. on the first bit of the track due to an improper converter. If I had that problem I'd lean towards a properly stalled non lock converter and a VSC transmission for spoolup. This would be for those V6 guys running 91mm or bigger turbo's.

The only reason I'd ever run a lock-up is on a car that sees a lot of interstate drives.
 
guy's hat's off for an excellent thread!i definatly agree that the non-lockup gets the motor rpming sooner and is easier on the trans,but cruising at higher speeds the rpms are a little higher and enjoyment as well as gas mileage suffers compared to the lockup.in slower cars though,with say turbo's around the 49,44,60,and the newer gt32,going with the lockup will alow, with more stress on parts i concede,alot more mph that is needed for that combination to work to its max.fully locking that converter in 3rd on smaller turbo combinations is an awsome feeling usually reserved for bigger turbo cars or cars that breath alot better.it all depends on combinations.
 
The 43% was not with a multi disc setup.

In another thread on a similar topic I calculated 43.5% slippage with my Vig @ 90 MPH (5300 RPM at 90 MPH, 28" tires). I'm wondering if the converter is too loose and therefore trying to lock it at WOT with 43.5% slippage (trying to go from 5300 RPM to 3700 RPM with the lock) is too much to ask even of a 5-disc converter? Anyone else have a 90 MPH data point with a Vigilante (I think it's a #6 pump because I asked for 3500 RPM stall, and actually get around 3200-3300).

I've made the investment in the 5-disc so I'm going to stick with it, I would just like it to work (it doesn't lock at WOT). I'm taking the trans out and bringing it to CK to look at but I think ultimately I'm going to send the converter back to Precision to have it 'tightened' up. Would that help the slippage in 3rd gear? With the ball bearing T70 turbo I don't need a really loose converter anyway.

Jim
 
I trapped 138, 1.38 60ft on 275/60 MT drag radials off the footbrake and my car was driven in the HOTROD POWER TOUR with a non-lockup 200. I believe without a doubt I could drive my car 200 miles round trip to the track and back home without any worries. Those that have rode in my car can tell you. It does generate some heat looking at my trans temp gauge but I help up for 3 years shifting at @6300 at WOT until the TV cable jumped off one late night :mad:
 
MIB,just curious,when you say cruising are we talking about 60 to 70 mph on the highway?if so what were your rpm's?i am aware about the trans heating up with the nonlock but what are those temps in the trans?
 
My car has a 9" and 3.90's now so I don't remember exactly what RPM my car cruised at on the highway. My car spools almost instant and well enough to not use the t-brake. I definitely could tell the difference on the highway between my other car with 3.42's and lock-up convertor. FWIW, I would drive my non-lu anywhere even with the 3.90's and 200 tranny, 200 miles round trip to the track but it's more race car than street. IMO a properly speced and built NLU in a "race car" is hard to beat. More street then strip, gas mileage, etc. stay w/LU :D
 
Mr. Spool
My tranny temps w/NLU is normally 40 degrees above whatever the air temp is. If on the t-brake 60 degrees above ambient.
 
if the proper lock up converter is chosen and the car is street driven 95% of the time(especially with a larger turbo) the lock up is the smarter choice.reduced engine rpm and operating temperatures and noise all contribute to reduced fuel and energy losses that can be turned into power to shove the car forward.at a given point however the/a super efficient non lock up converter and its reduced reciprocating weight can outperform a locked converter weighing an additional 15 to 20 lbs.the trend now that is starting to make sense to me is to use a high stall lock up and big turbo that will not stall when the little 6 is not in boost ,but generate high stall at about 8 pounds of boost with a larger turbo and still have the lock up to spool the turbo when whipping it.as far as hard parts i think the only part in trouble when shifting with a locked converter is the od section,input shaft carrier and ring gear .the billet drum is necessary all the time imo.
 
mib, thanks for the info,always been on the fence between the two.seen and been in alot of different combo's in these cars as well as some other extremely fast cars.the 8,9,10sec cars seem to always run non-lock units and are street driven less distances maybe perhaps due to the way the car is used.it seems that 11sec area is the grey are in which the debate forms,as i never see nonlock units running in 12 and 13 sec cars that are primarily street driven more and usually driven more towards the track and in the daily driven world.
 
PM me if you want. I can give you my # if you want to discuss options. Depending on your power level I have an idea of a 10" lockup that can do it all. It will be as efficient as a non lock at the track and have a single disk for interstate trips. I had a 10" non lock with bullet proof internals in my TSS car that worked very well. I'm sure I can mate that converter with a lockup to give you what you're looking for. It will be heavier than the non lock set-up but it seems you're not concerned with that as much as you drive the car.
I'll be in touch one day, Dusty - unfortunately the machine shop just told me that my crank has two cracks in it so I need to take a couple of steps backwards before getting back forward enough to get a new converter, sigh :).
 
I'll be in touch one day, Dusty - unfortunately the machine shop just told me that my crank has two cracks in it so I need to take a couple of steps backwards before getting back forward enough to get a new converter, sigh :).

Sorry to hear the news.....Feel free to call me whenever you get ready.
 
I'll be in touch one day, Dusty - unfortunately the machine shop just told me that my crank has two cracks in it so I need to take a couple of steps backwards before getting back forward enough to get a new converter, sigh :).

Sorry about that Carl.
 
I have been contemplating this very question and even the 400 swap.

If you are a street/strip car I can't see why you wouldn't go lock up, EX. I traveled over 3 hours on the highway to drop off my GN in Wisconsin to get painted and used about a 1/3 tank of gas. With todays gas prices, unless you can get a super efficient non locker ( no guarantees ), I'd go lock up.

Tranny heat is really easy to solve, massive cooler regardless if non or locker.

Non locker is lighter and if super efficient will really holds its own. And no worries about killing discs like some have on the Vigs, oh ya, cheaper too. :biggrin:

If you are going to go non locker due to racing reasons etc, why not just go to the TH400?? This is where I am at with all of this, just not sure anymore because the car keeps getting faster and driven less on the street. :confused:
 
One topic that hasn't been addressed is heat - a converter's worst enemy. A non-lockup converter will generate more heat due to the slippage. This is why all modern cars with AT have lockup converters. The advantage of a non-locking converter is the fact that it's lighter which makes the turbo spool a little faster. Today's modern non-locking converters are much efficeint than those from 7-8 years ago but they will cost you about 300-400 RPM (aka MPG) at cruise and will generate a good bit more heat. If you rarely drive your car any further than the local cruise-in or it's for strip only, then a non-lockup is the best way to go.

There is no reason to run a lockup converter if you aren't going to use it. There is no magic ET number where a non-locking converter has advantage over a lockup. A GOOD lockup converter can be just as good if not better than a non-lockup. My race car makes in excess of 1300hp and runs in the 7's with a LOCKUP converter. Granted, it is a race only unit capable of withstanding up to 2k HP but it is worth a good 2 tenths and 3-5mph or more. My point is, some would have you to believe lockups are for the street only and non-lockups are for the track but a good lockup unit such as the Vig can work on the track and work well.

I am in the process of building a street car that should make around 700hp and be good for deep 10s and I will be using a lockup converter. This car will mainly be a street car and may even be driven on short trips with occasional track action. While a non-lockup might give better all out track performance, the trade offs in heat generated aren't worth it to me in this application. :cool:

Very good info! However, slap a good cooler on there, and your worries will decrease drastically!:biggrin:
 
I have been contemplating this very question and even the 400 swap.

If you are a street/strip car I can't see why you wouldn't go lock up, EX. I traveled over 3 hours on the highway to drop off my GN in Wisconsin to get painted and used about a 1/3 tank of gas. With todays gas prices, unless you can get a super efficient non locker ( no guarantees ), I'd go lock up.

Tranny heat is really easy to solve, massive cooler regardless if non or locker.

Non locker is lighter and if super efficient will really holds its own. And no worries about killing discs like some have on the Vigs, oh ya, cheaper too. :biggrin:

If you are going to go non locker due to racing reasons etc, why not just go to the TH400?? This is where I am at with all of this, just not sure anymore because the car keeps getting faster and driven less on the street. :confused:

Hey there Mike! I am going non-lockup as well. I have an ATI ready to go in. I know I know, it's been waiting to go in for a couple years. Marriage is killing me!:biggrin:
 
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