turbobitt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2002
I've had this problem with my old T-netics turbo even with the restricter but my Borg handles 100+ psi cold oil pressure with no problems.
AG
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What oil weight should i use ?
- Thread starter 434nova
- Start date
AG
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AllGoNShow
Member
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2014
Also interested in what I should be using, previous owner used Mobil 1 on the '86, 150km, light-moderate mods (small turbo/dp/inj/etc..)
TIA
TIA
If it's happy with what you have, then don't change it.
20psiofevil
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2013
Interesting. I'm going to try my new borg turbo without the restrictor to see how it does.
jpwalt1987
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2003
20psiofevil
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2013
s366 91/79 .88 ar. Should be ready to fire up this weekend and hopefully some baseline numbers next Friday.
AllGoNShow
Member
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2014
Never that simple for me... oil pressure, oil quality, power, wear all come to my mind. When I performed UOA's on my truck and changed brands, wear went down, engine noise went down, fuel mileage went up, zero mechanical issues related to lubricated components, driven hard and put away wet daily.
It sounds like you have this all figured out already, so why are you asking what you should use? Just do what you prefer to do for tests and go with what that tells you like you have in the past. If you are just looking for opinions, there are already a million oil threads on this board.
AllGoNShow
Member
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2014
It most definitely is not "all figured out", hence why I am in the current discussion on relative topics of oil. Maybe if you don't have any relevant, current information on the topic at hand, oil, then maybe your comments just aren't required? I have searched and most of the threads turn into a syn vs non-syn and do I need ZDDP, some of them are even VERY old threads with oil that doesn't even have the same properties now as when it was discussed before. I am still hunting and RESEARCHING weights that are relevant and that maybe other people have had good UOA experiences with. I like how I'm trying to join the conversation and your being a rude prick about it. if you don't have any info on oil and the topic at hand, your comments really aren't required.
Damn! Don't be so sensitive brother. I already answered your question in that you need to run the thinnest you can while still having adequate oil pressure. Rule of thumb is 10psi per 1k rpm at wot and Buick spec is 37psi at 2400rpm and must shoot for 20psi at a hot idle but 10 to 15 psi at hot idle seems to keep them alive yet. Hopefully this answer pleases you sir. And try to avoid the personal insults when you react to an internet post. Plenty of your kind have come and gone through this board already and it's those that still post that make it fun. I didn't mean anything personal by my original post to you.
AllGoNShow
Member
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2014
You gave simple and common knowledge as your first answer to the original OP, of course you want to run as thin was possible while maintaining oil pressure, other wise you would have a blown motor, if your modding vehicles in general you should probably already know this. Your first answer to me was nothing, unhelpful, as you can see since you quoted, 'previous owner' used not I use, with all the Mobil1 discussion on the board and considering you also don't even run Mobil1 yourself, I am looking for other options, not simple common advice. Many may come and go, doesn't mean you need to treat the community any less as vehicles run through their new owners.
Ok. You win.
Talk to Lake Speed Jr. at Driven Racing Oils. (866) 611-1820 He will return your call if he is unable to answer.
BARRACUDA1968
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2011
I'm interested in what Nick said about rpm's being a factor.
My stroker is 500 miles old an built with correct tolerances. I'm running VR1 10w 30 now and since it's a full roller no extra zinc. Cold start is 70 psi and hot idle 20 psi in gear. Hot cruise at 70 mph at 2200 rpm is 45 psi.
I chose this oil because I plan to drive the car way in to fall here in Iowa. Will see 40 degree cold starts.
Now since I plan to spin the motor 5800 rpms eventually should I be looking for something thicker with the tight tolerances these motors have? I talk with Husek on a regular basis and he has brought up the 20/50 as well. I just felt is was a little to thick for street use in the cold Iowa weather I'm coming in to. I do plan to get down the strip later this fall but doubt I'll wind it real tight this year.
No one will ever agree on a brand of oil but maybe something can be learned here for stock vs modded rpm ranges.
My stroker is 500 miles old an built with correct tolerances. I'm running VR1 10w 30 now and since it's a full roller no extra zinc. Cold start is 70 psi and hot idle 20 psi in gear. Hot cruise at 70 mph at 2200 rpm is 45 psi.
I chose this oil because I plan to drive the car way in to fall here in Iowa. Will see 40 degree cold starts.
Now since I plan to spin the motor 5800 rpms eventually should I be looking for something thicker with the tight tolerances these motors have? I talk with Husek on a regular basis and he has brought up the 20/50 as well. I just felt is was a little to thick for street use in the cold Iowa weather I'm coming in to. I do plan to get down the strip later this fall but doubt I'll wind it real tight this year.
No one will ever agree on a brand of oil but maybe something can be learned here for stock vs modded rpm ranges.
My buddy with the SII and T/A blocks runs 0W-20 to 8000 rpm. I say stick with the 10w-30 as long as oil pressure is adequate. You're just robbing horsepower by making more pressure than needed. Thinner oil will also outflow thicker oil on a volume basis so thinner oil should do a better job cooling than thicker oil. If the engine is put together right with tight tolerances, the thinner oil will get in better, and since you're not throwing bearings out of of the thing, apparently the lubrication protection is already there with what you're running. I'm switch to 20w-50 soon but only b/c it's warmer here and my engine is about to roll 100k and is TIRED.
I think a better question to ask is how strong does my oil need to be? The higher the film strength,the lower the weight you can get away with using and the tighter the tolerances can be. Oil weight and strength are not necessarily related. You don't necessarily give up strength when you use a lighter weight oil. It depends on the formula.
Oh, look!
Another G Dang oil thread................. does anyone on this site use the search feature anymore?
I mentioned that and had some dude freak out.
I have a 87 with 67,000 miles and I put 10-30 royal purple with K&N oil filter and idle is smoother, but that was the 2nd oil change after being parked for 12years. I need to another oil change and not sure if I should continue with 10-30 or go up to 10-40? ???
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Mobil Synthetic 15W 50. You can run that stuff 7000 miles between changes with no issues.
The only thing I go to Wal Mart for ever.
The only thing I go to Wal Mart for ever.
