Want to refresh without breaking the bank.
- Thread starter Mr URL
- Start date
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
Cheap, Fast, Reliable
Can only pick two
You didn't mention your location. A forged crank, billet center caps, main studs and forged pistons is a smart move to keep things from noodling around. Go roller and be done as well
Can only pick two
You didn't mention your location. A forged crank, billet center caps, main studs and forged pistons is a smart move to keep things from noodling around. Go roller and be done as well
SpeedRacerX
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2014
Subscribed.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
captndave737
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2006
How big is the bank?
michael evans
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2008
The more you can do yourself is the only way to get it done cheaper.
RED LS1
SENIOR MEMBER
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2001
Agreed
Going off the statement "without breaking the bank"
I would strip the block bare. Take the block, caps and rotating assembly to a machine shop. Let them do all the basic machine work (assuming the stuff is good) like cam bearings, freeze plugs, etc.. Polish or cut crank and order up some .030 Forged pistons they can use for the bore job. They can hang the pistons on the stock rods and balance the rotating assembly and then take it home. Assemble the motor yourself and get the roller cam.
Just my .02 and what i'll be doing pretty soon.
With a flat tappet being an option you can pretty much be sure it's the first two.
(and then only the first one).
But then again I generally glaze over and stop seriously reading as soon as I see the magic phrase ''10 second'' (like that's something you can get from only an engine)
SCOOBY DOO
BASED CANADIAN PATRIOT!!
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2007
I bracket raced every weekend spring to fall for 4 years on the build in my sig...which was nothing more than a fresh set of rings and bearings and a 212/212 flat tappet cam with stock NOS lifters. ET for each run was 6.9 to 7.2 at 100 to 102. If the piston to wall clearance is within spec...then you can reuse the stock pistons like I did. If you have to bore the block...then try to bore it the least amount as possible...as you're getting closer to the water jackets and you're chances get greater of cracking into a water jacket. Been there...done that. Try and stay .010 to .020 over maximum.
I agree with Scooby. See my signature for my build which has a stock piston bore.
forcefed3.8's
Buckeye Bullet
- Joined
- May 26, 2002
What is the condition of your current engine? You can run mid to high 10s with stock heads and cam, just need the right supporting parts.
rebearing it, new valve springs,look at the condition of everything else and make a decision from there.
RED LS1
SENIOR MEMBER
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2001
I made the comments about boring and new pistons because in my personal experience I find the stock pistons to be junk and the break around the ring lands. My current car has stock bore and pistons and has taken quite a bit of abuse. But to take it up another level they concern me for sure. I'm sure everyone will push back and say piston life is 100% in the tune but these are just my feelings after seeing somewhat conservative cars break pistons. If you're going down to the block, a cheap set of forged's would be a nice upgrade.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
Yea Rt?! It's not a built bottom end that makes more power, it will just HANDLE more power.
Like already suggested, steel crank, forged pistons and steel rods. Do the 2 center billet mains. Stud the mains and heads.
You can get a Scat Rotating assembly BALANCED for around 2k. You can't go wrong with that. Get it at Summit or Jegs but don't order it till the machine shop lets you know the bore size that you need.
Don't cut corners and try to use the rods. I've seen the wrist pins walk out on them after they been reused.
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Crap I better let my engine know that.. same setup been mid 10's and WAY FASTER for 17 years now on a flat tappet
17 years ago flat tappet cam blanks weren't made of junk, typically had slower ramp speeds, and most lifters had hardened feet instead of chinese crap with soft friction surfaces.
oh yeah, oil was formulated with anti scuff additives too.
A lot has changed in the last 17 years.
oh yeah, oil was formulated with anti scuff additives too.
A lot has changed in the last 17 years.
Its the same grind as it was 17 years ago .. just on a new blank .. same OEM GM lifters as was available 17 years ago..
Hmm .. the oil Cant be 17 years old
SCOOBY DOO
BASED CANADIAN PATRIOT!!
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2007
You can throw as much money at one of these engines as you like...but if it sees KR...it'll come apart at the seams.
Chad, ultimately you decide what your goals are and what your apatite is to push your parts.
Just my thoughts, not saying right or wrong. If nothing is wrong currently, looking at your combo, I would put a PTC NLU convertor in it and drive it(I have a vague memory reading a post where it looked like you were blowing through the convertor), so long as the alky and fuel systems are up to snuff.
If you have issues and are going to tear it apart, a forged rotating assembly is a good idea. My impression is guys like Scooby have been very methodical and are careful with the stock parts, inspection, and selection. Bison, Forcefed, and Mr Spool have taken stock parts very very far. You need a builder that is on board with your approach and will thoroughly inspect the stock stuff if you want to keep it and abuse it. I had a good run with my stock short block, but eventually broke the crank, whether I f'd up or the crank had a casting flaw I will never know, but that is the risk. I never had the stock crank inspected, so my bad, I just ran it.
When my crank broke I had a lot of collateral damage, still in the process of putting it back together.
I have had fun with my car, and while I don't like breaking stuff, I like working on it as much as driving and driving it(good thing). The hobby is expensive, builders, machinist need to make a living and the good ones have valuable skills, so it cost money. I do as much as I can because I like it, but will spend when needed, and sometimes gamble a little bit just because I can't help myself.
Good luck with your choice.
Just my thoughts, not saying right or wrong. If nothing is wrong currently, looking at your combo, I would put a PTC NLU convertor in it and drive it(I have a vague memory reading a post where it looked like you were blowing through the convertor), so long as the alky and fuel systems are up to snuff.
If you have issues and are going to tear it apart, a forged rotating assembly is a good idea. My impression is guys like Scooby have been very methodical and are careful with the stock parts, inspection, and selection. Bison, Forcefed, and Mr Spool have taken stock parts very very far. You need a builder that is on board with your approach and will thoroughly inspect the stock stuff if you want to keep it and abuse it. I had a good run with my stock short block, but eventually broke the crank, whether I f'd up or the crank had a casting flaw I will never know, but that is the risk. I never had the stock crank inspected, so my bad, I just ran it.
When my crank broke I had a lot of collateral damage, still in the process of putting it back together.
I have had fun with my car, and while I don't like breaking stuff, I like working on it as much as driving and driving it(good thing). The hobby is expensive, builders, machinist need to make a living and the good ones have valuable skills, so it cost money. I do as much as I can because I like it, but will spend when needed, and sometimes gamble a little bit just because I can't help myself.
Good luck with your choice.
