transbrake
- Thread starter JRGN
- Start date
BMF_Racing
ONE B.M.F.
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2006
For a mostly street driven car, IMHO, I wouldn't be looking to put a transbrake in it. Secondary (related) costs are quite a bit higher than most realize.
You'd need the tranny beefed with billet parts to hold up to the abuse. A rear end girdle would be minimum. Stronger axles. Better Ujoints, etc. etc.
I already had all this stuff done because my car was dipping into the 11's and they're required at that level.
Then there's the brake its self. There are two varieties: inexpensive manual brake. I've had this type in my car for a whole seaon and HATED the thing!!!!
Reason: I've been braket racing my cars for over 30 years off the foot brake. One gets to know the lights pretty well with that background. The manual brake inherently has a HUGE delay in it, and as such, I could never recapture my usual .10-.0x reaction times with it. The manual brake also has a TON of rollout in it!
Then there's the electronic variety. Pro's: near instantanious reaction, nuff said.
Cons: extremely expensive!!
The extra hidden costs mentioned above will be what kills ya.
If it's primarilly a race car, then of course all the extra stuff is assumed to be done, and the electronic brake is the only way to go.
You'd need the tranny beefed with billet parts to hold up to the abuse. A rear end girdle would be minimum. Stronger axles. Better Ujoints, etc. etc.
I already had all this stuff done because my car was dipping into the 11's and they're required at that level.
Then there's the brake its self. There are two varieties: inexpensive manual brake. I've had this type in my car for a whole seaon and HATED the thing!!!!
Reason: I've been braket racing my cars for over 30 years off the foot brake. One gets to know the lights pretty well with that background. The manual brake inherently has a HUGE delay in it, and as such, I could never recapture my usual .10-.0x reaction times with it. The manual brake also has a TON of rollout in it!
Then there's the electronic variety. Pro's: near instantanious reaction, nuff said.
Cons: extremely expensive!!
The extra hidden costs mentioned above will be what kills ya.
If it's primarilly a race car, then of course all the extra stuff is assumed to be done, and the electronic brake is the only way to go.
blackplague
Are you watching Phil?
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I have to agree with Turbo Dave.
I have a stage rite manaul brake in my GN. The roll out is there on my brand new billet trans. When I pre-stage and then engage the brake I will always stage and sometimes deep stage before it's solid.
Reaction times have to be adjusted as well. I have it down to where I get .600 to .900 R/T with the brake launch.
Also if you use your brake a lot you will have to change the fluid more often. It will heat the fluid up quicker and turn it into a "sludge" change it about every 2-3 months if you're at the track every weekend.
I have a stage rite manaul brake in my GN. The roll out is there on my brand new billet trans. When I pre-stage and then engage the brake I will always stage and sometimes deep stage before it's solid.
Reaction times have to be adjusted as well. I have it down to where I get .600 to .900 R/T with the brake launch.
Also if you use your brake a lot you will have to change the fluid more often. It will heat the fluid up quicker and turn it into a "sludge" change it about every 2-3 months if you're at the track every weekend.
WE4
TBcom Admin /Prayers NYFD/NYPD
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Wierd...
My transmissions do not have problems with roll out, or slow reactions.:tongue: They flat out lock down!
Must be because mine are not Stage Right brakes. They are similar in function, but that is all that is the same. (I will not go into detail, since it is not my idea to share)
I do sell these brakes outright, but seldom use this "style" in my units.
99% of the trannies I do are for street cars, and nearly all have brakes.
They just plain work! And no, you do not need all the billet parts. But, they are never a bad idea. As we all know with Buicks, failures happen! (sometimes often)
I used the stock driveshaft and axles to run 10.7x`s with 1.45- 1.50 60fts.
I do think, in most applications, the footbrake and preloading the suspension does work better.
Guys seem to have forgotten why the Stage Right brake was brought to market.
It was for the guys with no linelock, or inability to hold boost on the line from overheating or overpowering the rear brakes. Converters and turbo tech has come along way since this brake came about. So, they are not needed as much as in the past.
Bottom line is I like them, and so do my customers. So, I continue to sell them. Others do have a better design, but the price is difficult to manage for some. So, there will ALWAYS be a market for the "stage right" type brake.
THIS BRAKES ALONE DO NOT CAUSE TRANMISSION DAMAGE! A well prepared trans will work with these for years! Damage comes from spending to long raging the converter, or spending way to long with the car on boost waiting to release the brake. Bushings and washers get melted or damaged, and then the thrust gets sloppy, and you get x-leaks. In extreme cases, you can WELD the clutches together. But, if you keep the time on the brake to 3-5 seconds, and are responsable these failures are rare.
Owner responsability is the key to keeping the trans in top fighting shape!:wink:
My transmissions do not have problems with roll out, or slow reactions.:tongue: They flat out lock down!
Must be because mine are not Stage Right brakes. They are similar in function, but that is all that is the same. (I will not go into detail, since it is not my idea to share)
I do sell these brakes outright, but seldom use this "style" in my units.
99% of the trannies I do are for street cars, and nearly all have brakes.
They just plain work! And no, you do not need all the billet parts. But, they are never a bad idea. As we all know with Buicks, failures happen! (sometimes often)
I used the stock driveshaft and axles to run 10.7x`s with 1.45- 1.50 60fts.
I do think, in most applications, the footbrake and preloading the suspension does work better.
Guys seem to have forgotten why the Stage Right brake was brought to market.
It was for the guys with no linelock, or inability to hold boost on the line from overheating or overpowering the rear brakes. Converters and turbo tech has come along way since this brake came about. So, they are not needed as much as in the past.
Bottom line is I like them, and so do my customers. So, I continue to sell them. Others do have a better design, but the price is difficult to manage for some. So, there will ALWAYS be a market for the "stage right" type brake.
THIS BRAKES ALONE DO NOT CAUSE TRANMISSION DAMAGE! A well prepared trans will work with these for years! Damage comes from spending to long raging the converter, or spending way to long with the car on boost waiting to release the brake. Bushings and washers get melted or damaged, and then the thrust gets sloppy, and you get x-leaks. In extreme cases, you can WELD the clutches together. But, if you keep the time on the brake to 3-5 seconds, and are responsable these failures are rare.
Owner responsability is the key to keeping the trans in top fighting shape!:wink:
