Looking to replace mine on my 124k mile stock motor. I have looked on most of the vendors, and a few options out there. I'm not trying to be cheap, but I do want the best deal. Seen some go for over 120$ and for some around 80$. Just looking to see what works best. Thanks
Timing Chain
- Thread starter Dreamn4GN
- Start date
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Any timing chain set for a turbo Buick under $100 will have a cast cam gear, the more expensive sets will have a billet gear.
A timing chain will stretch very little over miles, but the gear does wear and the chain will then loosen.
On a fresh engine build, we always use the best chain set!
A timing chain will stretch very little over miles, but the gear does wear and the chain will then loosen.
On a fresh engine build, we always use the best chain set!
TurboTdr3.8
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2013
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/ho-ho-ho-holiday-specials-are-here.421112/#post-3494220
Arizona GN is a supporting vendor of TurboBuick.Com , check with him also
Arizona GN is a supporting vendor of TurboBuick.Com , check with him also
m233roller
Banned
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2002
But the link chain with billet gears from TA Performance. DONE !!
Tony serio
Member
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2014
My roller one from TA great no issues
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
I like the sock junk POS timing set. Keep in mind the only last 25 years or 125,000 miles, so you have to change them often.
That may be true in a stock build and I have seen them last with 150K miles, BUT I also have changed them at 50-60K miles and they were completely wasted.
When you subject the stock nylon cam gear to more HP and RPM, it really does not like that as I have changed many with badly worn and missing teeth way less than 100K miles.
If the cam is a roller lifter with 50-100#'s more pressure, you are just asking for trouble with a nylon/plastic cam gear.
m233roller
Banned
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2002
Yikes. One of the many reasons I did not push my car once I purchased her. Looking at grabbing some valve springs as well. Hopefully she will stay together
PSID6, that's the second of my posts on this you've rated as ''dumb''. Are you really under the impression that OEM chains don't last 120,00 miles, or do you think that the plastic being exposed to acidic air and petroleum distillates for 1/4 century mean nothing.
I could be wrong, but I'm only going by personal first hand experience and the experience of others.
I could be wrong, but I'm only going by personal first hand experience and the experience of others.
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
I used a stock melling replacement chain with a hydraulic flat tappet. The motor was originally to be a stock rebuild and I was going to build a good engine later. Well, it's still in there. No idea on the condition. I guess when it finally takes a dump I'll have to report my findings if the internet is still around when that happens.
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
One thing that doesn't help the stock floppy timing chains is when the person rebuilding it only uses one tensioner so the chain flops around and wears the shit out of the gears.
I wouldn't test that on anything I build. Probably wouldn't make it out of shop. The stock springs have about 250lbs less open pressure than anything Id ever use and the stock engine is good to about 1500rpm less. The opening and closing rate is much faster on a high performance engine. I have ran Rollmasters over the years and never had a problem. A stock timing set probably costs more than a Rollmaster.I like the sock junk POS timing set. Keep in mind they only last 25 years or 125,000 miles, so you have to change them often.
BPE2013@hotmail.com
Last edited:
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
Roll master huh? I think I paid 15 bucks for mine lol. If it goes, it goes.
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
The beater bomb i bought that has sat since 93 most likely still has the stock chain. Timing is still dead nuts on and quiet. Only got 77k on it though.
I don't recommend the OEM set for a roller. I'm talking about a flat tappet cam actuating replacement springs like the ''LT1'' that tend to get shotgunned into unopened engines.
On my personal car, my original timing chain tossed it's teeth at 149,500 going 85 down the interstate. I replaced it with a Cloyes solid metal set back before they got bought out and became rebadged powdered metal. For the next 100,000 my magnetic oil drain plug had an afro that would make actors in a 70's blacksplotation film jealous. It lost it's teeth sitting at a red light. When I pulled the front cover, the gear pocket was chewed all to hell and I had to make a new one (and write an oil pump article). Went back with a plastic covered OEM set, the engine was quieter and the afro's became a thing of the past. It was running fine until my car was stolen and destroyed.
On tear down after I got it back, the coolant had left through a melted block off from the abuse. The thieves ran my car so hot, the idler oil pump gear friction welded itself to the pin in the timing cover and locked it up and sheared off the bottom of the cam sensor. Damn near everything in the engine was shot except the timing set. It looked good enough I could have used it again (if I went back with a flat tappet). From my personal inspections, these things are tougher than people give them credit for. It's just not a SBC, you can't let them sit for a 1/4 century and expect them to be as good as new.
It is kind of a moot point now as I will never run a flat tappet cam in a Buick V6 again. ESP with the modern ramp rates that are available now. I'm with you about not putting them in an engine being build for a customer... If was were to build these for other people, I'd make them go roller or not take the job.
