Timing Chain Installation Questions

[Danster]

Need some friendly advice from my fellow TR's, I was familiarizing myself with the instructions on gnttype.org for replacing the timing chain and was wondering if the cam button and cam sprocket are critical parts that should be changed?

It also mentions to buy the updated "roller type" cam button. Is this a dealer only part and if so, what is the part number for this little critter?

Any other gasket(s) required besides the water pump?

Also, if anybody wants to add/offer some friendly advice I would most appreciate any and all help since this would be my first time replacing a timing chain.


Dannyo

 

[machinegun]

You will need a timing cover gasket set. You will need some thread sealer, water/coolant ( depending on what you use) gasket remover and scrapper. Possibly an oil pan gasket. ( sometimes gets damaged when removing the cover. ) You will not need to replace the water pump gasket. I do recommend replacing the front main seal. If it has the rope stck one be sure to replace it. Get a timing set with cam and crank gears. ( The stock cam gear is nylon and prone to damage ) I also recommend the chain tensioner and the roller button. Most of these items can be purchased at most large auto reatailers such as Autozone Pep Boys or NAPA. Make sure you get the roller button for the cam. It is not a necessity but is really worth the couple of bucks.

 

[Danster]

Is the roller button for the cam available at local auto parts store?

Dannyo

 

[49-blues]

look to get one from one of the gn vendors like johnsperformance or cottons etc.

 

[Nick Micale]

Originally posted by Danster
Is the roller button for the cam available at local auto parts store? Dannyo

Yes, application is for later 3800 motors.

 

[Gn-Krazzie]

whats the best timing chain for my stocker motor, stoke cam , etc. I assume the that the G.M. one is not available anymore. ??


Its an 86 GN 137,000 Km !!

 

[ronbuick]

Do not forget the two cam bolts, part#25532736, and damper
part#25532546 along with the new style cam button, Ron

 

[Jimn8or]

Replace the chain and gears with a Cloyes stock type replacement set, a new tensioner, spring and bolt from the General and make damn certain the marks are dead-nuts vertical before you you seal ot up!
HTH
Jim

 

[Danster]

Originally posted by ronbuick
Do not forget the two cam bolts, part#25532736, and damper
part#25532546 along with the new style cam button, Ron

Are the cam bolts (pn 25532736) a GM item only? I have purchased the tensioner/damper, spring and the roller cam button.

Just trying to find out a little more on the cam bolts.

Dannyo

 

[ronbuick]

Yes, they are GM only. Ron

 

[Danster]

Thanks Ron. Another question, how many of these bolts will I need, one or two?

Dannyo

 

[Raist103]

Just got the cam botton fromATR a needle cam botton is the same as a roller. i think it was like 25 or 30 bucks. as foir the part # they only have one.

 

[ronbuick]

Two, Ron

 

[Danster]

Thanks for the help and advice Ron.

Yet another question, I ordered the Cam button from Johns Performance, while browsing the online catalog I came across their front timing cover which includes a high volume oil pump built in. Would this item be worth while adding to the car? Pretty steep at $ 150.00. Are the oil pumps in our cars sufficient.

Also, is it a good idea to change the valve stem seals? I did not order these and was wondering if I should have. Would like to get started this weekend.

Thanks in advance!


Dannyo

 

[6pak2aV6]

I would recommend spending an extra $20 bucks & getting a new water pump if you have a stock location I/C.

 

[Dave Simpkins]

Tmg Cov. & Oil Pump

For the time it takes, and a lot less $$'s you can improve oil pressure and oil flow (ease of movement) thro' the oil pump.

After market kits are available that include higher (pressure) springs for the oil bypass ... and spending time (quality time) with your timing cover and a die grinder and a ream .... to smooth and radius the casting in and around all the tight spots in the timing cover in the oil passage areas. Long time since I did this bit of surgery .. once you've got it apart you'll see the areas where fluid (movement)could be hampered. Go slow, keep it neat.

Also .. another "trick" thats supposed to work and is really cheap, is to lightly bead blast the pump gears ... be careful not to damage the shaft. The textured surface is suposed to move the oil more efficiently.... Jim Ruggles came up with that one.