Thinning urethane clearcoat?

[87 Pete]

I can't seem to get 2-part urethane clear to flow-out nicely, it tends to go on very heavy and looks orange-pealed.

A guy I know advised me to thin it out, maybe 25% thinner or tolulene, to 75% clearcoat.

Has anyone tried this? Does anybody have any tips or tricks for getting the clearcoat to flow out better?

Thanks.

Pete

 

[Red Regal T]

I would think there must be some compatible reducer to the brand you are using. Check with your supplier.

 

[zproud]

Also the paint gun...use the HVLP type and adjust flow with tips...a paint store can tell you how to inprove the flow with the tips..

I still spray with the old binks, I can get it to flow, but I am sure I could do better with the HVLp as the paint is made for a HVLP gun..

 

[japSW20]

what clear are you using? If it is too thick back off a bit on your fluid knob and bring up the psi 2-3 psi,Or you can thin it with a reducer compatible with your clear. :biggrin:

 

[Kent C]

When doing a high quality paint job i like to use the slowest reducer possible. most manufactures have different reducers for different temps. I also try to get the booth a little cooler than normal, even paint at night if its to hot during the day. Also using a high quality HVLP gun does help but I've seen ammazing paint jobs come from old school guns as well. (depends what the painter is use to IMO). I can get a real good paint job this way, but it will never be as good as a colour sanded paint job. sounds like you got lots of material on the car so why not just colour sand it?

 

[japSW20]

When doing a high quality paint job i like to use the slowest reducer possible. most manufactures have different reducers for different temps. I also try to get the booth a little cooler than normal, even paint at night if its to hot during the day. Also using a high quality HVLP gun does help but I've seen ammazing paint jobs come from old school guns as well. (depends what the painter is use to IMO). I can get a real good paint job this way, but it will never be as good as a colour sanded paint job. sounds like you got lots of material on the car so why not just colour sand it?

actually it is better to paint during the summer so the paint could bake,Depending on temperature determines what reducer youll want to use,on I usually use medium reducer

 

[x2cstang]

actually it is better to paint during the summer so the paint could bake,Depending on temperature determines what reducer youll want to use,on I usually use medium reducer

IT's not that it's better to paint during the summer it just dries quicker.

You can paint a car in 50 degrees in a paint booth, it will just take longer to flash off and dry. It will not stand up to the UV rays over time like one painted at the best temp of 72 degrees (most manufactures recomendation of temp) but it can be done and done nicely.

If you have a lot of "orange peel" just sand it as smooth as you want the finish. Just because you laid it down smooth as glass doesn't mean you did it right. It's all about the mils put down, the more is not the better!!! It will make the clear brittle and break. If you have peel put down 3 coats of clear vs 2 and sand off the extra coat. And if you swirl it during the polishing grab some 3M swirl remover, dark or light depending on color sprayed.

 

[japSW20]

IT's not that it's better to paint during the summer it just dries quicker.

You can paint a car in 50 degrees in a paint booth, it will just take longer to flash off and dry. It will not stand up to the UV rays over time like one painted at the best temp of 72 degrees (most manufactures recomendation of temp) but it can be done and done nicely.

If you have a lot of "orange peel" just sand it as smooth as you want the finish. Just because you laid it down smooth as glass doesn't mean you did it right. It's all about the mils put down, the more is not the better!!! It will make the clear brittle and break. If you have peel put down 3 coats of clear vs 2 and sand off the extra coat. And if you swirl it during the polishing grab some 3M swirl remover, dark or light depending on color sprayed.

72 degrees is rare in my part of town :biggrin:

 

[87 Pete]

what clear are you using? If it is too thick back off a bit on your fluid knob and bring up the psi 2-3 psi,Or you can thin it with a reducer compatible with your clear. :biggrin:

I started with some PPG Omni AU clear, painting some smaller parts, spoiler, etc. till I got some experience. It's what we use to clear coat prototype parts at my work.

Soon I will be painting large panels, and I think I will switch to PPG DCU2002. It seems to be a slower drying "premium" clear. I also found a bunch of PPG tech sheets on the web.

It seems to me that what you guys are suggesting is using a high-temp reducer like DT895, and painting when it's cooler out, but above 50°. Since I'm painting black I'm trying to get every coat as flat as possible. In the end I will have to color-sand, and polish, I'm just trying to minimize the amount of sanding I will need to do. By the same token, on vertical panels, I will be trying to minimize the amount of runs, if the clear is too thin.

Thanks to all for the tips,

Pete

 

[japSW20]

I started with some PPG Omni AU clear, painting some smaller parts, spoiler, etc. till I got some experience. It's what we use to clear coat prototype parts at my work.

Soon I will be painting large panels, and I think I will switch to PPG DCU2002. It seems to be a slower drying "premium" clear. I also found a bunch of PPG tech sheets on the web.

It seems to me that what you guys are suggesting is using a high-temp reducer like DT895, and painting when it's cooler out, but above 50°. Since I'm painting black I'm trying to get every coat as flat as possible. In the end I will have to color-sand, and polish, I'm just trying to minimize the amount of sanding I will need to do. By the same token, on vertical panels, I will be trying to minimize the amount of runs, if the clear is too thin.

Thanks to all for the tips,

Pete

I just sprayed a truck with that omni clear last night,its alright for somebody on a budget but i wouldnt spray it on my car.It is pretty heavy,I shot it at a 2:1 clear/hardner ratio.I was tempted to reduce it a little bit but it was shooting fine with my 1.4,I would recomend shooting clear with a 1.3 tip to get it to lay down smoother.Mist on your first coat so it tacks up for the second layer to stick too,shoot 3 layers,wetsand it smooth then flowcoat it and you should have a mirror shine :biggrin:

 

[Mad_Trbo]

I know old thread, but what does flow coat mean?

 

[87 Pete]

I know old thread, but what does flow coat mean?

I'm no expert, but I think a flow-coat is a thin, watery coat, that will "flow-out" nicely... meaning that it will dry very flat.

Pete

 

[Mad_Trbo]

Appreicate that, and is this watery coat developed through thinning out of clear coat..

 

[87 Pete]

Appreicate that, and is this watery coat developed through thinning out of clear coat..

Yes, thin it with the appropriate reducer.

Pete