TA Performance or Weber Racing front cover?

Nick, thank you for this reply to my dilemma, I had close to 100 miles on my fresh build and changed the oil from regular 10/30 oil to Mobil 1 10/30 and put in a WIX 51049 in the PTE remote filter. I had a cheap Puralator in it (I know what the heck was I thinking, it was on the bench and I put it in). Fired up the car and the pressure only went up to about 40 and settled down around 15 at hot idle. I believe the Purolator filter was the culprit. I turned the regulator back into where TA Performance had it set and the pressure didn't really do anything may have gone up a hair. Now I'm actually worried about the low oil pressure, as long as I'm above 10 psi at idle I think I'm ok.

Chuck

Update cold start this morning 39 degrees, 72 psi
 
I believe the Purolator filter was the culprit. I turned the regulator back into where TA Performance had it set and the pressure didn't really do anything may have gone up a hair. Now I'm actually worried about the low oil pressure, as long as I'm above 10 psi at idle I think I'm ok.

Chuck

This just fired a brain cell or two :whistle:, I've read where the stock setup sends unfiltered oil to the turbo. But I never connected that with the oil pressure also being measured pre-filter. That is probably not a good idea as post filter oil pressure is what matters.

I think it's time/best to move the oil pressure sender location...

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
The mechanical oil pressure line is run from the turbo connector feed line at the turbo.... The oil pressure is not an issue at this point, the lower pressure from last night was with a warm engine. To re-cap don't use a cheap Puralotor filter on a fresh build, go with Nick's reusable filter or get a Wix.

Chuck
 
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The mechanical oil pressure line is run from the turbo connector feed line at the turbo.... The oil pressure is not an issue at this point, the lower pressure from last night was with a warm engine. To re-cap don't use a cheap Puralotor filter on a fresh build, go with Nick's reusable filter or get a Wix.

Chuck

Not sure if you were responding to me. I did some research and found that what I stated about the oil pressure fitting on the block being pre-filter is wrong. It is post filter, so it is filtered oil at the pressure being fed to the engine bearings, lifters, turbo, and such. So having the oil pressure gauge plumbed in at that point is correct.

Which is interesting in your case as the Wix filter shows a lower post-filter oil pressure. Which means that it is a higher restriction then the Purolator filter. Of course the Purolator filter could have been internally damaged and oil was passing right through it. Can cut it open to see if this is true.

Back to what caused me to state that the turbo oil feed is non-filtered oil. This has been posted here, usually along with the statement that as the main and/or rod bearings went away the trash also went through the turbo and took that out too. Hence the turbo is fed from non-filtered oil.

But that is only partly true, it is only unfiltered when the bypass opens. Which it will do once the filter is clogged with bearing material. This is why something like the PTE Turbo Saver is a good idea. It won't feed bypassed oil to the turbo, only filtered oil.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
I just cut the oil filter apart that was on the car for the 1st 100 miles and in the center there was a load of vaseline, I bet that was the reason for the high oil pressure. The rest of the filter looked good, 5 years ago on the 1st oil change the filter particles had me nervous.

Cold start I have 75 and warm idle about 12 with 10/30 weight oil, looks like I'll be going up to 10/40 in the spring.

Chuck
 
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Update since I last posted....however long ago...
My Weber Racing cover is still cold starting at about 60ish PSI, and drops to between 25-30psi idle warm. It was used when I got it with ???? miles on it, and still fires up just fine. My extra .02 cents....
 
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