TA Performance or Weber Racing front cover?

Would you recommend a screw on or remote. I am running no oil cooler,just filter?
 
It helped mine about 5 lbs , but oil flows so much better with no paper element

K&P Engineering’s reusable oil filters offer faster oil pressure at start-up.More filtered oil gives you longer asset life for your vehicles.

Up to 7 times more oil flow than paper filters.

Environmentally friendly

You forgot one other important item Kip, it will also pay for itself in the long run as you only buy a K&P filter once! :)
 
Great thread, so I backed out the regulator screw on the TA Performance front cover/oil pump (4) turns (CCW) total (one turn at a time) and it only slightly dropped the oil pressure to 90 psi, the good news is that I drove the car 40 miles and the oil pressure is normal once the oil is warmed up. And the car runs great!

Chuck
 
I am sold, just wondering if a screw on is just as affective as a remote?
Remote increased my oil pressure and is easier to remove and replace with out the mess at the block, plus I always fill the filter with oil when replacing it to decrease start up starvation.

Chuck
 
Why would anyone block the bypass???

The bypass allows oil to 'bypass' the oil filter. Blocking it forces oil to go through the filter. It insures that your engine does not see unfiltered oil. There are risks involved with doing this. The bypass is there to protect the filter from excessive pressure and to protect your engine from not receiving oil due to a restrictive filter condition. At start up (oil cold) the oil is much more viscous and does not flow through the filter as well as when its up to temp and this creates a restriction in oil flow or a reduced amount of oil flow. The bypass opens at cold start up due to this condition so you are getting unfiltered oil until the excessive pressure on the filter is eased by the oil becoming more viscous as the temp comes up. The main risk in blocking the bypass is that you cause enough pressure in the filter to crush the element or burst open the case. If you live in a cold climate this risk is elevated. If you use a heavy weight oil this risk is elevated. If both of the previous statements apply to you then you would be MOST at risk of oil filter failure. Definitely do your homework before you do this. I chose to do it because with off the shelf oil filters I can run 30wt oil in my climate and not destroy filters. I seriously contemplated having my tolerances set up for zero wt oil when I was having my build done. I decided against that after I ran the engine during the winter (before the rebuild) and saw no ill effect. I attribute it to the climate of South Louisiana and that I don't use heavy wt oil.
 
Why would anyone block the bypass???
the oil filter bypass will bypass dirty oil past the filter on startup and other times that the filter poses a restriction. This is not the same as the main pressure bypass which only controls the upper limit of oil pressure.
 
another reason I blocked the bypass is because i was using a PTE turbosaver. if oil bypasses the turbosaver (essentially the filter), the turbo would receive less oil.
 
so no one uses stock untouched type covers or HV units these days like the ones offered by fullthrottle?
 
so no one uses stock untouched type covers or HV units these days like the ones offered by fullthrottle?

I'm sure a lot of people do. The stock system obviously worked. As with everything that people make there is always room for improvement. Search and you will find numerous threads on this subject. I pulled my HV pump off 8 or 12 years ago when there were rebuilds that showed excessive wear on the front cam bearing. It was debated that the excessive wear was the result of using a HV pump. I have not looked into the latest on this issue. It may have been resolved. It may never have been true. I pulled mine and reworked a cover myself following Earl Brown's instructions. Its worked great so I haven't looked any further.
 
the oil filter bypass will bypass dirty oil past the filter on startup and other times that the filter poses a restriction. This is not the same as the main pressure bypass which only controls the upper limit of oil pressure.

6 of 1 half a dozen of another. Both bypass the filter. I understand the filter bypass is there for filter restriction but ultimately so is the hp bypass.

Both the filter and hp bypass are safety mechanisms. They serve a purpose and should never be blocked but to each is own.

Every engine on the planet bypasses oil on startup and @ wot. Surej you have seen first hand what too much oil pressure does. Remember your guy who was collapsing filters?

Little story: I received a call one day from a friend who has a volvo front end loader. Keeped ballooning the oil filter and blowing out the seal. Several mechanics look at it and scratched their heads. I knew right away what was up. After locating the hp bypass I removed the oil filter manifold to access the valve. The spring had broke and the valve was lodged sideways in the bore not letting oil bypass. Now keep in mind it had several brand new filters blown off. Brand new filter flows the most and still needs to bypass oil.....
 
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You forgot one other important item Kip, it will also pay for itself in the long run as you only buy a K&P filter once! :)
Watching that movie it looked like he spent $3 on brake clean and $10 worth of time lol. I'm lazy I'll stick to my Napa Gold (wix) filters on the turbosaver lol

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
 
Ultimately if the filter bypass is blocked and the filter can't flow enough 1 of 2 things happen. The filter will either collapse and/or blow a hole through the element.

Blaming a hv pump for wearing out the front cam drive/ bearing when the bypass is blocked off is a total misdiagnosis. Blocking off oil bypasses and running too much oil pressure loads the pump drive way harder than bigger set of pump gears... I can't believe this goes right over everyone's heads.
 
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Ultimately if the filter bypass is blocked and the filter can't flow enough 1 of 2 things happen. The filter will either collapse and/or blow a hole through the element.

Blaming a hv pump for wearing out the front cam drive/ bearing when the bypass is blocked off is a total misdiagnosis. Blocking off oil bypasses and running too much oil pressure loads the pump drive way harder than bigger set of pump gears... I can't believe this goes right over everyone's heads.

Ditto
 
Ultimately if the filter bypass is blocked and the filter can't flow enough 1 of 2 things happen. The filter will either collapse and/or blow a hole through the element.................

Your statement is correct if the filter is a conventional media type with no by-pass, but with a stainless mesh filter it WILL flow enough oil when cold, and it will NOT collapse or blow a hole in it.
 
I just want to add my comments and opinion in this discussion based upon many years of dealing with Buick engine oiling starting with Buick engines before the turbo days.

It is not unusual for oil pressure of 80-90 psi when starting an engine on a " cold" day here which is 30-40 degrees, and about 35-50 psi at operating temp.

The issue I did have with these cold start oil pressures, the paper-type cartridge filter would collapse, or at least develop "tracks", or wide openings to allow oil to flow which means it is not filtering some oil even with the by-pass closed?

Some of the more expensive filters have a very fine media which actually restricts oil flow, and filtering oil down to 8 microns is counter-productive. I prefer to have more oil flow and pressure.

The Wix filter for example has a 60 micron media, which is adequate for protecting bearings and other parts.

Also, the cleanable filters use a 40 micron stainless steel mesh screen with NO bypass, and this is what we prefer to use especially to protect our expensive performance builds.

Our testing has shown an increase up to a 10 psi oil pressure across the entire RPM range with the mesh filter, which in our builds is 80-90 psi at high RPM.

I have well over 1000 passes in my race car over the years and never trashed a main bearing, and has fresh bearing every season.

Nick, thank you for this reply to my dilemma, I had close to 100 miles on my fresh build and changed the oil from regular 10/30 oil to Mobil 1 10/30 and put in a WIX 51049 in the PTE remote filter. I had a cheap Puralator in it (I know what the heck was I thinking, it was on the bench and I put it in). Fired up the car and the pressure only went up to about 40 and settled down around 15 at hot idle. I believe the Purolator filter was the culprit. I turned the regulator back into where TA Performance had it set and the pressure didn't really do anything may have gone up a hair. Now I'm actually worried about the low oil pressure, as long as I'm above 10 psi at idle I think I'm ok.

Chuck
 
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