Suspecting i have a MAF Sensor going bad.

Nascar83Fan

Active Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Is there anyone in the El Paso TX area that has a spare working stock style MAF Sensor for 86/87 TR's that i could try to see if for sure the one on my car is flaking out?

Been troubleshooting an issue the last few days and based on someone else that was having a similar issue i am, thinking it's the MAF sensor causing the problem i am having also.

I've verified fuel pressure to be correct, stable & rises properly. I have checked over all grounds, made sure connections & vac lines all were good, pulled the spark plugs out to examine them and they all look good. I've done cold and warmed up testing the ohm's on the coil pack pairs with that checking out.

Part of why i am suspecting the MAF sensor is having problems is that when i unhooked the plug from the sensor the idle is smoother and clears up. The O2's are reading more properly with it unplugged than with it plugged in at idle fully warmed up also. With it plugged in the O2's would after she was fully warmed up drop to in the 200's MV and mostly sit in that range at idle, occasionally for just a second jumping up to over 500 MV before going back to the 200's for a bit. With it unplugged the O2's were reading a more normal range at idle like prior to the issue happening and she idled way better also. As soon as i plug the MAF back in she goes back to idling alittle rough again and the O2's go back to being low at idle.
I can't pick up a MAF sensor from any parts place until at least tomorrow and i unfortunetly don't have a spare to try to further attempt to resolve the problem.

She starts fine with only having to turn the key once or twice at most on first startup of the day and doesn't stall, isn't overheating, the SES light comes on with the key on engine off like it is suppose to, no codes being thrown or flashing SES light happening to indicate an issue, no spark retard occuring at any point on scanmaster. If i unplug the MAF sensor, i do see a code 34 show up and it does make the SES come on until i plug it back in then the light goes back out which is normal. I've even reset the computer and made sure the chips were seated properly, with no change.
Bites not having spares of stuff and only having her for a vehicle. I already asked gnEric if he had any spares and all he had were the hot air style MAFs sitting around and they won't work with our Intercooled beasts. Gladly will give some gas money to whoever to come over here and if they want a beer or 2 would gladly buy them that as well.


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Rap on the MAF with screwdriver handle while idling. If it stumbles, mystery solved. Good luck with an aftermarket. I had a perfect Standard brand one but gave it to a friend in need. Just make sure it cycles to 255 on your Scanmaster.
 
My first MAF went out and coded. My second one (wasted $150) did not about 1 week later. Tap on the MAF, like stated, and ANY change in idle at all and it is probably no good. If not don't bother with these style MAF's (unless you have a show car) just get a translator. Aftermarket ones are literally a crap shoot and a 28 year old OEM one is just a matter of time.
 
The tap test is not conclusive. If it stumbles then it's bad. But it can still be bad and not stumble. Powerlogger here will tell you about the condition of the MAF. It should be 6-7 CFM koeo. About 11 CFM at idle and get to 256 by about 15 PSI of boost with no weird spikes or dropouts.
 
Part of why i am suspecting the MAF sensor is having problems is that when i unhooked the plug from the sensor the idle is smoother and clears up. The O2's are reading more properly with it unplugged than with it plugged in at idle fully warmed up also. With it plugged in the O2's would after she was fully warmed up drop to in the 200's MV and mostly sit in that range at idle, occasionally for just a second jumping up to over 500 MV before going back to the 200's for a bit. With it unplugged the O2's were reading a more normal range at idle like prior to the issue happening and she idled way better also. As soon as i plug the MAF back in she goes back to idling alittle rough again and the O2's go back to being low at idle.
I can't pick up a MAF sensor from any parts place until at least tomorrow and i unfortunetly don't have a spare to try to further attempt to resolve the problem./QUOTE]

What's happening to the MAF readings on the scantool when you unplug it.
 
I was going to start my own thread, but will piggy back off this one. I'm helping a buddy get his GN running right and it was lean at WOT. MAF was reading 225 at 15psi. Thanks to Eric, I checked it out and it was a crappy reman unit and the wrong model to boot. He really does not want to go to a translator on his car because of how original it is (except for the fact that we put on a TT chip, CAI, adj fpr, test pipe, #42 injectors, fuel pump, hotwire lol) and I notice that Kirbans has reman OEM ones that are supposed to scale correctly for $189. Anyone know if these are legit? He is borrowing my MAF for now.
 
Anytime I talk to someone willing to paint themselves in a corner like that, I usually tell them to wax the shit out of the car, vacuum the interior real well, and put some velvet ropes around it. It's not a driver it's an expensive 3D picture.
 
Anytime I talk to someone willing to paint themselves in a corner like that, I usually tell them to wax the shit out of the car, vacuum the interior real well, and put some velvet ropes around it. It's not a driver it's an expensive 3D picture.

He drives it. Hell, check out the mods I already talked him into. The point is it is a very low mile time capsule that he just wants to leave it street trim and have fun with. It would have stayed bone stock if it actually ran decent. He rode in mine and caught a bit of the bug. Everyone has a stopping point and I get it. I agree with leaving a stock MAF on this one if there is a decent replacement available.
 

On the scanmaster AF reads 04 key on engine off with maf plugged in.
At idle warmed up it's at 06 AF with it plugged in.
Unplugged reads at 06 AF at idle also.
Don't have a power logger btw, just a scanmaster.
She idles really smooth with MAF unplugged, idles not so smooth plugged in.
The cross counts also change by a larger number amount unplugged than plugged in. They would only increase by 17-20 points per each update to that reading displayed on scanmaster with MAF plugged in since the problem occurred. WIth the MAF unplugged they change by a larger more normal amount of points like she was before the problem showed up.


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So gut out the maf, get an sd2 chip, get a powerlogger.
Everything is still stock looking.
 
I'd say you found your problem. now RUN (don't walk) run out and buy a translator and LT1 maf
 
Sounds like it might be a big vacuum leak to me. Does it increase rpm idling and iac counts drop when unplugging? When unplugging the MAF it uses other means to calculate the air flow value. Here's pics of a friends car that idled like a big pile of poop. It's a Ford but was still mass air flow calibrated:
f7be3e5059c1223dbc868f944ea8456e.jpg


This thing was so lean at idle I couldn't believe it. It wanted so much more fuel idling I knew it had to have a big leak. Adding fuel increased rpm a bunch. Huge vacuum leak into the crank case. The ones you can't hear are the ones that are a pain.


BPE2013@hotmail.com
 
I had the exact same issue 2 or 3 months ago that happened twice to me. My car ran exactly how your did, but it was throwing code 34 and SES light. I changed the maf (originally had a LT1 maf) replaced with a reman unit (can't remember what brand) but it only worked for 3 weeks.

Then it started doing the same thing again, same issues but no SES light. Car was idling high then stubbling and it BARELY made it back into the garage. It winded up be that reman unit. I changed it with a cardone reman LT1 unit, and it's been just fine every since then
 
She has always Idled smoothly and purred at 725-775 rpm's warmed up since i've had her the last 4 years until the problem showed up recently.
She still idles at that rpm since the problem showed up, with the MAF plugged in she idles rough and is not purring as smoothly at idle. If i unplug the MAF the idle rpm's will be the same but for a second or 2 they come up to 800-850 rpm then settle back to and remain at the 725-775 rpm idle after i have unplugged the MAF.
The idle goes to being smooth and she purrs smoothly upon unplugging the MAF.
The moment i plug the MAF back in, she goes back to the idling alittle rough and not purring so proud.
The IAC's have always been over 60 even before the problem showed up, they been that way since i had the car but she ran great the last nearly 4 years until this recent problem showed up. The IAC's do come down to 63-65 with the MAF unplugged, from the IAC's of 70-80 range i see with the MAF plugged in.
But the IAC's have been like that prior to the problem in that 70-80 range for as long as i've had the car.
 
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The O2's with the MAF unplugged are showing over 500 mv at warmed up idle, as soon as i plug the MAF back in the O2's drop like a rock and she goes back to the running rough. Prior to the problem showing up, the fully warmed up idle O2's weren't out of wack and weren't reading stupid low with the MAF plugged in.
 
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The O2's with the MAF unplugged are showing over 500 mv at idle, as soon as i plug the MAF back in the O2's drop like a rock and she goes back to the running rough. Prior to the problem showing up, the idle O2's weren't out of wack with the MAF plugged in.
Unmetered air entering the engine


BPE2013@hotmail.com
 
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