Scanmaster G readings

[NoVA_87_GN]

So I finally got a Scanmaster G in my T-Top. Here are the readings, hopefully you all can tell me what exactly I need to be looking for.
Some info about the car, new fuel pump, hotwire kit, 60 lbs injectors, TT chip, new injector harness and injector hotwire kit, new plugs, accufab afr, I believe PO replaced the MAF sensor.

This was at idle with car warmed up.

Mv 534
MAF 5
LV8 31
Volts 14.1
INT 28
BLM 142
RPM 825
TPS 0.50
IAC 27
O2 CC 86
Trouble Code No codes present

Thanks for any input

 

[1KWIKSIX]

*BLM ‘s s/B 128 +/-10
142 indicates a lean condition ( probably a vacuum leak), & fuel is being added by the ecm
* TPS (throttle position sensor) should read 0.42-0.44 v
*iac (idle air control ) a tad high s/B less
Maybe 15-20

 

[NoVA_87_GN]

Thanks, so here comes the new to turbo buick questions:

*BLM ‘s s/B 128 +/-10
142 indicates a lean condition ( probably a vacuum leak), & fuel is being added by the ecm

- -With a vacuum leak, are there certain lines that I need to check or do I just go through the entire thing? If it's the latter, is there a diagram that shows me all of the vacuum lines?

* TPS (throttle position sensor) should read 0.42-0.44 v

- how do i go about adjusting this?

*iac (idle air control ) a tad high s/B less

Maybe 15-20

- how do i go about adjusting this?

Thanks again.

I'm currently trying to hook up a boost gauge, youtube videos make it look way easier than it actually is for someone who's never done it.

 

[TireFryer]

Check ALL the lines. Or better yet. Replace them all. That’s what I did when I got mine. Borrow a smoke machine from a buddy, easiest way to look for leaks.

Read up here on how to adjust the IAC and TPS

Basics
Link^^

Here’s what all your scanmaster readings mean

Scantool Readings

Link^^

 

[TireFryer]

Also….

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

First and foremost...you've got a lean condition. Either vacuum or pre turbo exhaust leak(s). The DS header always cracks between the rear two cylindrs. Look for a crack or a repair. The EGR is notorious for leaking as well. Don't drive it till you fix the BLM issue cuz I got better things to do than tell you how to change head gaskets. Throw a new Denso 02 sensor in it while you're at it. I'd recommend swapping in a Translator and your fav MAF if the stock one is still in place. Do what the other gents said to get the other numbers in line. If the header is cracked tell the welder it's mild stainless.

 

[hensleyt]

these number are at idle. What was water temp?
IAC is high but not real high, but unless the throttle plat is all the way shut his IAC would be lower with a vacuum leak. Looking over all the vacuum lines is a good thing to do. But low IAC generally indicate vacuum leak.
Like Scooby I would look for a DS header leak. If its not real noticeable look WOO that a big crack.
I would start turning the throttle blade screw 1/4 turn clockwise ,what for it to idle backdown to 825 -850 look at the IAC and see if the number starts going down.( my car likes 25 but not all cars are not the same. 10-20 is OE) IT should go down. The IAC is how the ECU control idle speed. TPS will be going up when you do this. When my TPS hit .55 maybe .57 I would shut it off. Turn the key on and adjust TPS to a low .40-.41. restart let it run a few minute blipping the throttle a few times.
go back and adjust the throttle stop screw a few more 1/4 turns watching IAC drop to around 10-20 me closer to 20 as soon as your in the 10-20 range set TPS to .42-.44, again OE is .35-.45.
I almost forgot, before you do the TPS IAC dance PLEASE confirm fuel pressure set at 43 vacuum line OFF. If fuel pressure is low the ECU will be adding fuel.

 

[1KWIKSIX]

As mentioned already,
Here’s some reading for you that will be your guide on your Journey.
“Welcome to the Dark Side”

Technical Pages

 

[NoVA_87_GN]

All, thanks for advice. I'm gonna start looking over for a vacuum leak today after i get off work. Appreciate all the feedback.

these number are at idle. What was water temp?

The water temp got up around 170 while sitting at idle. I did notice when I took it out to get gas that the temp got as high as 203, which I would think it high as its only in the low 50s/high 40s out. This a product of running lean? Or am i destined to swap out radiators in the near future?

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Erics chip has the fan kick on earlier than that. Watching the temp on the SM, what temp did you hear it kick on at. You should be able to watch the temp come down on the SM when the fan kicks on and then turns off again. Sure the fan is coming on?

 

[NoVA_87_GN]

I almost forgot, before you do the TPS IAC dance PLEASE confirm fuel pressure set at 43 vacuum line OFF. If fuel pressure is low the ECU will be adding fuel.

Forgot to add that I am pretty sure I set the fuel pressure to 43 psi with the vacuum disconnected, per the instructions from TT, i just got a fuel pressure gauge from Kirban that I'm going to throw on there today as well. Just a quick question about that, do i need to completely remove the schrader valve prior to screwing on the fuel pressure gauge? I previously check/set the pressure with a removal gauge/hose.

 

[NoVA_87_GN]

Erics chip has the fan kick on earlier than that. Watching the temp on the SM, what temp did you hear it kick on at. You should be able to watch the temp come down on the SM when the fan kicks on and then turns off again. Sure the fan is coming on?

thanks for the reply @SCOOBY DOO, looks like i'll be verifying that as well after work. I got a list going, should be fun.

 

[hensleyt]

when you are working on 2 separate cars with problem it easy to overlook a step in trouble shooting.
the TT chip turns the fans on I think around 165 you should have a 160 thermos state. Do you?
This car has a TT the other car has a FAST. What mods dose this car have?

 

[NoVA_87_GN]

when you are working on 2 separate cars with problem it easy to overlook a step in trouble shooting.
the TT chip turns the fans on I think around 165 you should have a 160 thermos state. Do you?
This car has a TT the other car has a FAST. What mods dose this car have?

Yeah, it gets a bit confusing.

To this car i've done: Aeromotive Stealth 340 Fuel Pump, Fuel Pump Hotwire kit, TT chip, 60 lbs injectors, new injector harness, injector hotwire kit, new plugs, scanmaster g, accufab afpr. I have a fuel pressure gauge and boost gauge which i'm setting up/installing. PO said he replaced the MAF prior to my purchasing it.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Yeah, it gets a bit confusing.

To this car i've done: Aeromotive Stealth 340 Fuel Pump, Fuel Pump Hotwire kit, TT chip, 60 lbs injectors, new injector harness, injector hotwire kit, new plugs, scanmaster g, accufab afpr. I have a fuel pressure gauge and boost gauge which i'm setting up/installing. PO said he replaced the MAF prior to my purchasing it.

If it's a stock MAF...they suck. The ones from the parts houses are a crap shoot at best.

 

[NoVA_87_GN]

So I went through the engine by and took a look at some of the vacuum lines, looks like most, if not all are in need of replacement. I can see some of the ends were cracking and just about all of them covered my fingers/hands in black. I think I can probably find most of them at the auto parts store. Are there a few specialized ones that I need to get?

Where do I find the hose a few of these hoses (pics below)?



Can you replace these hard vacuum lines? if so, where do you get a new set?



Also, I took a pic of the DS exhaust manifold, between cylinders 3 and 5, I'm assuming this is a crack?

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Cracked. Remove it and have it welded by a real welder. Don't let your dog do it. I recommend using a cheapass Felpro gasket as it'll be warped like a pretzel after the heat from welding. The Felpro gasket has a notch on each end so it's easy to change as it'll eventually burn away.

 

[dynoman]

Just a quick question about that, do i need to completely remove the schrader valve prior to screwing on the fuel pressure gauge

Yes , just like removing one from a tire valve .

 

[HotAirWH1]

So I went through the engine by and took a look at some of the vacuum lines, looks like most, if not all are in need of replacement. I can see some of the ends were cracking and just about all of them covered my fingers/hands in black. I think I can probably find most of them at the auto parts store. Are there a few specialized ones that I need to get?

Where do I find the hose a few of these hoses (pics below)?

View attachment 390267

Can you replace these hard vacuum lines? if so, where do you get a new set?

View attachment 390266

Also, I took a pic of the DS exhaust manifold, between cylinders 3 and 5, I'm assuming this is a crack?

View attachment 390265

 

[HotAirWH1]

So I went through the engine by and took a look at some of the vacuum lines, looks like most, if not all are in need of replacement. I can see some of the ends were cracking and just about all of them covered my fingers/hands in black. I think I can probably find most of them at the auto parts store. Are there a few specialized ones that I need to get?

Where do I find the hose a few of these hoses (pics below)?

View attachment 390267

Can you replace these hard vacuum lines? if so, where do you get a new set?

View attachment 390266

Also, I took a pic of the DS exhaust manifold, between cylinders 3 and 5, I'm assuming this is a crack?

View attachment 390265

You probably won't find preformed vacuum hoses.
Here are the sizes:
Vacuum Line Hose Sizes:

Cruise Control Servo
Large port 9/32"
Small port 7/32"
Vacuum ball 7/32"

Washer Reservoir 8/32"
Washer Nozzles 7/32"

Charcoal Canister
To Tank 10/32"
Solenoid 8/32"

EGR to Solenoid 5/32"
Vacuum to EGR Solenoid/Check Valve for HVAC/Cruise 9/32"

Brake Booster 3/8" (9-9.5mm)

AFR 6.5/32"

Vacuum Block
3 ports 8/32"
1 port 6/32"
1 port 12/32"

PCV 12/32"

Wastegate Y-hose 8/32"

Total Lengths for Car
4mm = 122"
6mm = 147"
8mm = 46.5"