Stroker crank/rod to block clearance
- Thread starter SloGN
- Start date
I know I'll get blasted for this but
I know I'm right--grind the offending edge of the bolt head @ an angle making sure you leave enough of the ribs so the socket fits WELL. When I did this---using a gram scale--I removed .3 of 1 gram of weight off. Torque bolt to desired value then mark the spot to grind. Bring it on !!!
I know I'm right--grind the offending edge of the bolt head @ an angle making sure you leave enough of the ribs so the socket fits WELL. When I did this---using a gram scale--I removed .3 of 1 gram of weight off. Torque bolt to desired value then mark the spot to grind. Bring it on !!!
rod bolt to cam lobe clearance, assemble and rotate it, OH OH
more grinding.
I looked into building a stroker 109, and was told will need to grind rod and rod bolt to clear cam
An experienced machine shop should know that when changing any major
components that checking swing clearances is necessary. The parts suppliers
don't really care, it only adds to their machining cost . It is up to the end user
to verify all crash zones be checked . And gring rod bolts after the fact is not
a professional way to do it. We have done enough strokers that all the areas
are automaticly addressed.
components that checking swing clearances is necessary. The parts suppliers
don't really care, it only adds to their machining cost . It is up to the end user
to verify all crash zones be checked . And gring rod bolts after the fact is not
a professional way to do it. We have done enough strokers that all the areas
are automaticly addressed.
Dan
I have already clearanced the block. I broke thru the oil passage way tring to get @ least .060 clearance on the front rod journal bolts. I.m currently machining a steel sleeve for the oil passage way.
What other areas on the block should i be concerned with? I have installed both front piston/rod to check clearance. It appears that there is not gonna be a issue with the other 4 rods.
I have not ordered a Cam yet due to the concerns of the rods hitting the cam lobes on certain rods. What is the biggest lobe lift can i get away without the fear of smacking the rod journal.
Also What cam specs do you reccommend for this engine. It's a .020 overbore 109. Ta Alum heads that flow in the 240-250 area. ported stock intake. My valvetrain consists of 1.65 kenne bell roller rockers.
Thanks for all the great input!
Sam Colalillo
low 9's w/ a 109
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2005
Here is a photo of how much clearance i needed for the narrow journal 3.625 stroker kit I got from DLS. I could have just cut this area completely out because I wound up running a DLS external oil pump which doesn't get its oil fom this passage
Next step; after installing the cam I also rotated the timing chain one tooth forward and one tooth rearward. After placement in each position I confirmed that the rods did not hit the cam. I think Dan already did some clearncing work to the rods before I picked them because everything worked, and I had no inteference issues.
Yo may have a hard time getting people to post their cam specs:wink: I would quess if you call Dan he will tell you exactly what you need
Next step; after installing the cam I also rotated the timing chain one tooth forward and one tooth rearward. After placement in each position I confirmed that the rods did not hit the cam. I think Dan already did some clearncing work to the rods before I picked them because everything worked, and I had no inteference issues.
Yo may have a hard time getting people to post their cam specs:wink: I would quess if you call Dan he will tell you exactly what you need
Attachments
Sam ??
Looks like I see a couple lines--is there a sleeve in the original bore? I once had some pics as to how to stand block on edge --use 2 precision squares clamped together with a rod I have made to FIT the factory bore--grind block --measure at end of rod--move squares amd measure @ grinding spot. The rod had a .070 step turned into it. That way I knew how close I was to breaking through. Everything don't have to be done @ a machine shop.
Looks like I see a couple lines--is there a sleeve in the original bore? I once had some pics as to how to stand block on edge --use 2 precision squares clamped together with a rod I have made to FIT the factory bore--grind block --measure at end of rod--move squares amd measure @ grinding spot. The rod had a .070 step turned into it. That way I knew how close I was to breaking through. Everything don't have to be done @ a machine shop.
Sam Colalillo
low 9's w/ a 109
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2005
No sleeve in the cylinder walls or the oil supply bore.
The way I did it was less scientific. Kind of Hill Billy actually and not proud of it. I crammed some of my sons silly puddy inbetween the stock crank piston and rod. Let it harden up. Pulled the stock rod, crank and silly puddy out. Then installed the stroker kit and carefully ground the block unitl I could put that piece of silly puddy inbetween the rod and block. This confirmed i had as much clearance as the factory set up. Like i said it was pretty hill Billy and shade tree mechaincesque, but it is what i did.
It took me allot of time but I did not go through the oil supply wall and I never sonic checked it to see how much material i had for wall thickness. In the long run it was a complete waste of my time because i wound up installing the external oil pump set up on the engine.
The way I did it was less scientific. Kind of Hill Billy actually and not proud of it. I crammed some of my sons silly puddy inbetween the stock crank piston and rod. Let it harden up. Pulled the stock rod, crank and silly puddy out. Then installed the stroker kit and carefully ground the block unitl I could put that piece of silly puddy inbetween the rod and block. This confirmed i had as much clearance as the factory set up. Like i said it was pretty hill Billy and shade tree mechaincesque, but it is what i did.
It took me allot of time but I did not go through the oil supply wall and I never sonic checked it to see how much material i had for wall thickness. In the long run it was a complete waste of my time because i wound up installing the external oil pump set up on the engine.
johnplogii
Senior citizen
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2005
1/2" copper pipe works real well to sleeve the oil passage. If you still need clearance with the pipe installed you can use a socket & hammer to contour the tube. Make sure it is sealed on both ends.
Only problem I see with the .500 copper is
The factory hole is 5/8 in. plus some. Are you saying you put a .500 sleeve in then put a dent in it? I have heard of boring the hole oversizing, then sleeve--then dent it if needed. Not sure how big oversize but I would think .750 to be able to keep the volume up to par.
Unless you have the facilitys to do it your self then you are @ the mercy of the machine shop--time and $. Just saying, there are more than 1 way to get it done.
The factory hole is 5/8 in. plus some. Are you saying you put a .500 sleeve in then put a dent in it? I have heard of boring the hole oversizing, then sleeve--then dent it if needed. Not sure how big oversize but I would think .750 to be able to keep the volume up to par.
Unless you have the facilitys to do it your self then you are @ the mercy of the machine shop--time and $. Just saying, there are more than 1 way to get it done.
turbodave231
Moderator
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
johnplogii
Senior citizen
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2005
The 1/2" copper pipe goes by ID, the peice I used actually measures .515, the OD on the pipe I used is .624 which leaves you about .001 clearance. I did use a tapered socked to open up both ends just slightly, and like I mentioned seal both ends. It won't hurt to seal the passage where it broke through inside too.
John
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