Driving my 87 GN today, ran great all day, went to leave stop light and mashed the gas, it took off good then after about 2 seconds it just died. Cranks but will not restart, check engine light on and giving me a code 12 or 24, fuel pressure on gauge shows 40psi, sounds like pump kicks on when key is turned on so I have an electric issue I am assuming, any ideas where to start? Maybe ecm? Car is stock and hasn't been tampered with.
Starting issue
- Thread starter Jake04
- Start date
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Lots of possibles....
Goto Vortexbuicks and do the t/s tree.
Goto Vortexbuicks and do the t/s tree.
NY_GN
Planning next secret evil upgrade
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2013
Code 12 is the ecm running diagnostic, 24 is the VSS. Try unhooking the battery to delete the codes. what's your TPS sitting at?
How do I check cam sensor?
I did try the battery reset, will the tps show on my scan master even though the car won't run?
dank GN
BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2009
This website has so much useful information. Read up . Even had a no start chart
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/
NY_GN
Planning next secret evil upgrade
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2013
The scanmaster will read the TPS even without the car started, turn the key on without cranking. Also the no-start charts everyone is talking about is really handy if that isn't the problem.
What should the tps read with key on, thanks for the no start charts they will help.
NY_GN
Planning next secret evil upgrade
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2013
it should read .42 with just the key on. If it moved under hard acceleration, cause it was loose, your readings will be off. look at your scanmaster on TPS, loosen the screws and adjust until you get it to.42; helps to have someone looking at the scanmaster while you're adjusting, but you can do it yourself.
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/maintenance/TPS.html
dank GN
BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2009
Okay so TPS reads.38, took a test light to injector and (don't have a noid light) grounded test light to battery, test light stays on when key on and cranking, ohms across injector is over 10 so based on flow chart ecm is shot, is it normal for an ecm just to die during wot?
So after digging some more, I took a look at my crank sensor and the middle part of the tab was broken, looks like that is where the magnet is and it's broke off. The sensor slides back and forth in the bracket and must have moved and broke off the middle tab. Must be my issue???
ScottHeidinger
Active Member
- Joined
- May 2, 2015
That will do it
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
NY_GN
Planning next secret evil upgrade
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2013
Glad you found issue, I normally keep a spare one of those in the trunk. Pretty cheap on amazon. When you put the new one on don't over torque it, it's soft plastic and the bracket is BS pop metal.
You found the problem. Without a working crank sensor, you gots no crank.
If you broke the one that came with the car new, you'll need to buy a sensor and a bracket. MAKE SURE the reluctor ring doesn't contact the sensor anywhere on the circle.
At this point you don't know if your sensor came loose and hit the ring, or if the ring got tweaked and took out the sensor.
The code 24 on the other hand will keep your TCC clutch from working if it's bad. Does your scanmaster show (correct) MPH when driving?
