Shakedown Pass 1/8 mile

How many lbs did the boost rise when you installed the FM over your last modded SLIC? Or did you turn the boost down before installing...
I tuned it down 5 or 6 psi before I took it out. All in all it added 3psi total.
 
In-car vid of the 10.70 pass
The converter couples so hard that the trans cant shift at the right RPM, so I need to shift it manually. I would have picked up more being in my power band, but I was happy enough at 22-23psi
 
That is smooth brother! I hope to have a TTA one day that runs as well as your car, Bo. Thanks for keeping the flame going.
 
That is smooth brother! I hope to have a TTA one day that runs as well as your car, Bo. Thanks for keeping the flame going.
Thats what its all about. Sharing experiences to inspire others man. I remember looking at Brian Lorenz's TTA on gnttype.org and saying that I am going to do this same setup, but faster....And I did it. It was fun during the process and I got to meet and race with lots of good people. Now, im on a quest to push the TTA stuff to the 9's...Which isn't exactly easy to do. Parts WILL break and pockets will be empty along this new path.
 
Thats what its all about. Sharing experiences to inspire others man. I remember looking at Brian Lorenz's TTA on gnttype.org and saying that I am going to do this same setup, but faster....And I did it. It was fun during the process and I got to meet and race with lots of good people. Now, im on a quest to push the TTA stuff to the 9's...Which isn't exactly easy to do. Parts WILL break and pockets will be empty along this new path.
Aren't pockets already empty just getting to where you're at now?
 
It sounds like you are having the same rpm issue's I'm seeing with a lockup converter. Essentially you won't be in you power band on a built motor after the 2-3 shift unless you are shifting at over 6000 rpm.
In-car vid of the 10.70 pass
The converter couples so hard that the trans cant shift at the right RPM, so I need to shift it manually. I would have picked up more being in my power band, but I was happy enough at 22-23psi

I couldn't really hear when the converter locked. It sounded like maybe around the 1/8 mile mark (which would presumably be around or a little over 100 mph)?

I think with an improved cylinder head and a roller cam swap the stock ~5400 rpm shift point is a little too low. That's where mine shifts if left in drive and I think it would like to shift at more like 5800-5900. After reviewing my last data log, I think Bison is correct, you are better to let the converter slip than you are to lock the converter for efficiency but bog the motor significantly below it's power band. My motor likes being above 4000 without any question.

If you lock the converter in 2nd with the stock 2-3 shift point it will bog the motor like crazy. It will pull the engine down to 3500 rpm.
 
This is a 9.5 N/L converter. I talked to Dusty and Clint on this board in another thread about the shifting issue and it is normal. Just have to manually shift now to keep the rpm in the correct range (5800).
 
This is a 9.5 N/L converter. I talked to Dusty and Clint on this board in another thread about the shifting issue and it is normal. Just have to manually shift now to keep the rpm in the correct range (5800).
Can't you get a different valve body to raise the shift points?
 
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