Scanmaster Help! Need to eliminate knock
- Thread starter LomoMike
- Start date
Picked up a boost controller from RJC, that should help eliminate the boost creep.
Going to look into the fuel problem but need to monitor the fp closely, right bow i do not have any kind of fuel pressure gauge. Dont really wanna put an electric fp guage in the car as i feel they are not accurate. Below are the options i am looking into on g body parts, which do you think i should go with (simple on rail or fp with a line so it can be visible when driving) and do i need the brass adapters?
http://www.gbodyparts.com/advanced_...Csid=f6309f4361952f94edea8d013418e72f&x=0&y=0
Or recommend you own setup but send me links please. I would like to have the option of storing the gauge on a fuel line in the engine compartment but also being able to tape it onto the windshield when i want to see fp at WOT during testing. Let me know what you recommend.
Going to look into the fuel problem but need to monitor the fp closely, right bow i do not have any kind of fuel pressure gauge. Dont really wanna put an electric fp guage in the car as i feel they are not accurate. Below are the options i am looking into on g body parts, which do you think i should go with (simple on rail or fp with a line so it can be visible when driving) and do i need the brass adapters?
http://www.gbodyparts.com/advanced_...Csid=f6309f4361952f94edea8d013418e72f&x=0&y=0
Or recommend you own setup but send me links please. I would like to have the option of storing the gauge on a fuel line in the engine compartment but also being able to tape it onto the windshield when i want to see fp at WOT during testing. Let me know what you recommend.
Leaning towards this kit:
http://www.gbodyparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1194&osCsid=f6309f4361952f94edea8d013418e72f
http://www.gbodyparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1194&osCsid=f6309f4361952f94edea8d013418e72f
Pronto
Believe nothing you hear and half of what you see.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2002
If you want a permanent fuel gauge on the line get a nice oil dampened gauge like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Marshall-Ga...ash=item3aaf640da3:g:NuQAAOxyLNpSEhth&vxp=mtr , don't get that cheap plastic job, it's not accurate.
You can still use a Mityvac to test the fpr and the rail gauge to check the pressure. You got other things going on that need addressing. Like Bison said, a logging tool like the Powerlogger is very helpful.
You can use this and a 90* el to attach a gauge to the rail.
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=963
You can still use a Mityvac to test the fpr and the rail gauge to check the pressure. You got other things going on that need addressing. Like Bison said, a logging tool like the Powerlogger is very helpful.
You can use this and a 90* el to attach a gauge to the rail.
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=963
Last edited:
626gn
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2009
I have this one. Haven't used it yet though...http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7838...tron+CP7838+Professional+Fuel+Pressure+Tester
Opinions on this? Like the 90 degree elbow but for some reason they want $13 to ship it to me! Thatll be $56 as compared to kirbans $35. Worth it for the brass 90 degree fitting?
http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/rail-mount-fuel-pressure-gauge-for-gm.html
http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/rail-mount-fuel-pressure-gauge-for-gm.html
626gn
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2009
Anywhere in the range of 4.2 - 4.8 at WOT is where you want to be.
I don't know how a controller is going to fix boost creep unless the prior controller was faulty? Usually boost creep is due to inadequate cross section of the bypass that results in increased drive pressure and run away. Are your injectors new? What are you logging with?
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Currently i do not have a boost controller. I have an adjustable wastegate actuator that is causing the boost creep. I am putting in the boost controller to eliminate the boost creep. I have also been told that if that doesnt work i may have to port the puck hole on the turbo. But ill try anything to avoid having the turbo taken off and machined.
Also working on the fuel problem to avoid being lean. Noticed that my adjustable fuel pressure regulator is set a little high (not a lot of threads exposed). Ordered a fuel pressure gauge in a 3ft line that i can use to adjust the fuel pressure correctly and also to mount to the cowl and test at WOT.
If its not the adjustable regulator then i have to start looking into voltage issues. I was running 13.4V at WOT last time i tested. Caspers volt booster may have crapped out and may be starving the engine of fuel.
As far as a power logger goes, i really do not want to get involved in tuning it with a computer. Its not a race car, i feel that i can get by with the scanmaster as long as i can get my setup working well and close enough. I am just learning about these cars and fixing the problems that arise as i go and i think dealing with a computer program would be overwhelming at this point. Not trying to be ignorant and i dont mean to whine but i do not have a lot of expendable income right now (just got married and bought a house) and im trying to find the cheapest fix make what i have work properly.
Yeah i know, just going through process of elimination boost first (to stay safe when testing), then fuel, then voltage.
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2009
After you get your fuel pressure gauge , you can test your pump and regulator without driving . Hook up the FP gauge , put a regulated air supply to the vac/pressure port on the regulator . This is to supply simulated "boost pressure" to the regulator so you want to go from 0 - 30 psi max. This way you can see what your fuel pressure is at any given "boost" pressure . Put 12v power to the grey single wire connector that is located behind the alternator and this will start the fuel pump . Start at 0 and check for the 1 for 1 rise in boost to fuel pressure up to and over your max boost you're planning on running ( @ 20psi air pressure should = about 62 psi fuel pressure ) . It's possible your pump is falling off once you hit 60 psi and won't go much higher . This is much safer than trying to watch gauges at WOT and you won't hurt the motor . Hope this helps . Sam
That is great! Help a ton. Thanks Sam!
Got my fuel pressure gauge last night and Adjusted my base fuel pressure to 43psi at idle. It was all the way down at 31!! So that helped a bit. No knock whatsoever in first and second...even with the boost creep issue, still waiting on my RJC boost controller. Had only one reading of knock in 3rd (let off when i saw it). Oxy mv was 078 and knock was 2.8*. I dont know what that 078 is about. But the car was running 750-765mv the entire rest of the time i had my foot in it. Which i know still is on the low side. Here are my current setting. May bump the overall fuel a bit more and going to fix the boost creep. Then gonna watch and see if fuel climbs with boost 1 to 1. If not, gonna replace the caspers volt booster and see if that does the trick. Thanks for all the help and tips so far guys!
Current Scanmaster Settings 96 octane/21* TT Chip/16lbs boost (some boost creep):
*Check signature for rest of mods
LV8 1 - BLM 142 Fuel WOT Overall
LV8 2 - BLM 140 Fuel WOT 1st gear
LV8 3 - BLM 118 Spark Timing 1st/2nd Gear (17.7 degrees)
LV8 4 - BLM 116 Spark Timing 3rd/4th Gear (17 degrees)
Knock Retard:
1st- 0 degrees
2nd- 0 degrees
3rd- 2.8 degrees
Oxy @ 750-760mv WOT (3rd gear pull)
Current Scanmaster Settings 96 octane/21* TT Chip/16lbs boost (some boost creep):
*Check signature for rest of mods
LV8 1 - BLM 142 Fuel WOT Overall
LV8 2 - BLM 140 Fuel WOT 1st gear
LV8 3 - BLM 118 Spark Timing 1st/2nd Gear (17.7 degrees)
LV8 4 - BLM 116 Spark Timing 3rd/4th Gear (17 degrees)
Knock Retard:
1st- 0 degrees
2nd- 0 degrees
3rd- 2.8 degrees
Oxy @ 750-760mv WOT (3rd gear pull)
Attachments
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2009
Didnt fix the volts yet, im assuming thats the root of the problem. And yes that is line off pressure.
Yeah it dropped down right after the 2nd gear to 3rd gear shift. 750 in low 2nd, 734 in top of 2nd, down to 078 on the shift still 0 knock, and then the 2.8* of knock came in in the next scanmaster reading.
Possible faulty 02 sensor?
