Scanmaster Help! Need to eliminate knock

L

LomoMike

GN Rookie
Joined
Oct 17, 2015
Been educating myself on how to use scanmaster. Set tps to .42 off throttle and 4.2 at WOT. Here are my current block learn settings for each LV8. And knock and oxy info. I am happy with my air/fuel at WOT but getting knock in the top of 2nd and 3rd gear. Let me know what settings you think i should change and by how much. Thanks!

Current Scanmaster Settings (93 octane with lucas booster/21* TT Chip/42# injectors):

*Check signature for rest of mods

LV8 1 - BLM 142 Fuel WOT Overall

LV8 2 - BLM 140 Fuel WOT 1st gear

LV8 3 - BLM 120 Spark Timing 1st/2nd Gear (19.3 degrees)

LV8 4 - BLM 118 Spark Timing 3rd/4th Gear (18.7 degrees)

Knock Retard:
1st- 0 degrees

2nd (top of gear 4500rpm)- 4.3 degrees

3rd- (top of gear) 5.4 degrees

Oxy @ WOT (3rd gear pull)
750-764mv
 
Recently updated after some testing and tuning:

Current Scanmaster Settings (93 octane with lucas booster/21* TT Chip/18lbs of boost TA49 turbo):

*Check signature for rest of mods

LV8 1 - BLM 148 Fuel WOT Overall

LV8 2 - BLM 148 Fuel WOT 1st gear

LV8 3 - BLM 118 Spark Timing 1st/2nd Gear (17.7 degrees)

LV8 4 - BLM 118 Spark Timing 3rd/4th Gear (17.7 degrees)

Knock Retard:
1st- 0 degrees
2nd- 3.5 degrees
3rd- 3.8 degrees

Oxy @ WOT (3rd gear pull)
750 mv
 
Happy New Year Mike,
I am no expert here on the board...but judging by the numbers provided I'd say your leaning out...especially on the top end of gears where the car needs the most fuel. If you have the WOT at 148 on your TT Chip your already richening up the mix quite a bit. I would look for some sort of vacuum leak....or a fuel pump issue. If you have a Fuel Pressure Gauge that is hooked up on the fuel rail via a high pressure hose...you can run the gauge and hose under the drivers wiper blade and see if your fuel pressure goes up with your boost. The gauge should read your base fuel pressure plus 1 lb per pound of boost. (ie. base fuel pressure is 45 and you have 18 lbs of boost you should see 63 lbs on the fuel pressure gauge) Anything less would indicate a bad pump.
I personally like to see the O2's around 770-790

HTH's
Bob
 
Lucas website says it raises the octane 3 points so you're only running 96 octane. You're also too lean. Try some 100ul and add fuel.
 
cmokem said:
Happy New Year Mike,
I am no expert here on the board...but judging by the numbers provided I'd say your leaning out...especially on the top end of gears where the car needs the most fuel. If you have the WOT at 148 on your TT Chip your already richening up the mix quite a bit. I would look for some sort of vacuum leak....or a fuel pump issue. If you have a Fuel Pressure Gauge that is hooked up on the fuel rail via a high pressure hose...you can run the gauge and hose under the drivers wiper blade and see if your fuel pressure goes up with your boost. The gauge should read your base fuel pressure plus 1 lb per pound of boost. (ie. base fuel pressure is 45 and you have 18 lbs of boost you should see 63 lbs on the fuel pressure gauge) Anything less would indicate a bad pump.
I personally like to see the O2's around 770-790

HTH's
Bob
Click to expand...
I will definitely look into the fuel pressure. I know that the previous owner had to add a caspers coltage booster because he was saying the pump wasnt getting enough voltage. I have a walbro gs 307, hotwire kit, caspers volt booster, and 42# injectors. Do you think my injectors may be maxed out? Ive heard that they are good into the high 11s and this car has gone a best of 12.50.
 
What is your max boost at ??
Just saw it ....18psi ....is that on an aftermarket gauge or the factory dash gauge ?
 
What's your volts look like at wot? If they are about 15 your fuel pump might be dying. 42s have plenty more to go.
 
Not going to help it being lean.
 
Pronto said:
Not going to help it being lean.
Click to expand...
Yeah i know ill check my voltage today. Also another question. When i make a WOT run and the scanmaster records the oxy millivolts and the maximum amount of recorded knock (when you press the button on the right to call it up) does it also record on all of the other settings as well? Can i change the setting with the button on the left and then press the button on the right to see what it was at WOT?
 
Pronto said:
What's your volts look like at wot? If they are about 15 your fuel pump might be dying. 42s have plenty more to go.
Click to expand...
Also id be very surprised if the pump was dying. Previous owner told me that he put in a brand new walbro gs307 in September. So it is about 4 months old with at most 4000 miles on it.
 
LomoMike said:
Also id be very surprised if the pump was dying. Previous owner told me that he put in a brand new walbro gs307 in September. So it is about 4 months old with at most 4000 miles on it.
Click to expand...

Do a search on the Walbro 307 pump, you'll find a lot posts regarding performance issues. There are better choices out there. I recall racetronics even stopped selling 307's along time ago for those reasons.
 
Never ASS ume any new part is functioning correctly just b/c it's new! The hose on the pump could have a split. Seen that one before...
 
You should turn the boost down until you get the fp sorted out. A head gasket would be a good case scenario if you don't. If it is knocking, it is hurting something in there.
 
Pronto said:
What's your volts look like at wot? If they are about 15 your fuel pump might be dying. 42s have plenty more to go.
Click to expand...
Just tested tonight. Voltage looks ok. 13.4 volts the whole time at WOT.
Pumped fuel up to max on scan master(153) in all gears and lowered boost to 16lbs of boost with 17.7* of timing. Still a little lean at 757-765mv so i def still have some kind of air/fuel problem, but i dont think its the pump. Gonna get a fuel gauge and see how much its pumping. Should i get one on the fuel rail or inside the car and which one Brand would you recommend??

But i think i found the culprit. I am getting a lot of BOOST CREEP!! Saw the boost guage hit 16lbs and then slowly creep up to 20 before i let out of it. That should explain why i am getting knock at the top of 2nd and 3rd gear. Im ASSuming (lol) a boost controller may fix this? Can anyone recommend a good one?? Thanks for all the help
 
LomoMike said:
Just tested tonight. Voltage looks ok. 13.4 volts the whole time at WOT.
Pumped fuel up to max on scan master(153) in all gears and lowered boost to 16lbs of boost with 17.7* of timing. Still a little lean at 757-765mv so i def still have some kind of air/fuel problem, but i dont think its the pump. Gonna get a fuel gauge and see how much its pumping. Should i get one on the fuel rail or inside the car and which one Brand would you recommend??

But i think i found the culprit. I am getting a lot of BOOST CREEP!! Saw the boost guage hit 16lbs and then slowly creep up to 20 before i let out of it. That should explain why i am getting knock at the top of 2nd and 3rd gear. Im ASSuming (lol) a boost controller may fix this? Can anyone recommend a good one?? Thanks for all the help
Click to expand...

I like an Autometer in-car fuel pressure gauge with a pressure transducer connected to the fuel rail . If you can move the transducer off of the rail to the inner fender or firewall via a braided fuel line that would be better . It would help it last longer by isolating it .

If you lowered boost to 16psi and it crept to 20psi , what did it creep to when it was set at 18psi ??? That plus lean fueling is where all that knock came from !:eek:
For now get a test fuel pressure gauge and put it up to the windshield and see what that FP is doing at WOT . Sam
 
You have a Caspers volt booster in your sig. You should be getting way more than 13.4 volts at WOT, more like 15+. I'm really not understanding your terminology about adjusting the chip for fuel. Are you sure you using the instructions from TT?
http://turbotweak.com/forum/index.php?threads/chip-instructions-for-version-5-7.1842/
Are you positive your fp is set at 43 line off (measured with a fp gauge on the rail)? If you adjusted parameter 1 to 153 it should be way rich at WOT. Something is wrong with your fueling system and the Volt booster is not working or your alternator is messed up (dying under load). What's your volts at idle? I would also look at your chip to confirm it's correct for 42lb injectors. TT chips are pretty damn close when burned for the mods given to Eric. No way should you have to add all the fuel and still be lean.
You need a fuel pressure tester to confirm your line off idle pressure, then pressurize the regulator 10 psi to confirm it's at 53 (raises 1-1). You also need to figure out why you only have 13.4 volts at WOT.
 
There's a lot going on with this car.

1) Voltage with v-booster is low
2) Adding fuel through the chip did nothing for the O2s even though you lowered boost as well
3) Boost creep is present

Get rid of the v-booster or get it working right, get a pump in there that actually gets more fuel to the motor when you add it through the chip, and eliminate the boost creep by opening up the wastegate hole a bit. Just radiusing the hole may be enough. The TT chips have static fuel delivery at wot so the boost needs to be well controlled for the afr's to be correct all the time. Bailey chips read air flow at wot and will adjust automatically to more boost/airflow if you can't get it controlled properly.
 
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