Slight Knock

SCOOBY DOO

I'M NOT A MONSTER, I'M JUST AHEAD OF THE CURVE!!!
FP is right around 43 with the line off. I need to get another FP gauge to monitor in boost. The pump, no clue, I'm guessing 10+ years old. My BLM at idle when warm was 126 yesterday. I do have a small exhaust leak that seals up when warmed up near the flange of the poston style header on the DS. I've checked and checked vacuum lines and they all look good.

Fuel pump...10 years old. Park it till you install a new one. BLM's are okay.
 

joed

Active Member
Any Kr is bad. Never assume it’s false. Take 1-2* of timing out and see if the kr goes away. Check all the vacuum lines as a leak will result in a lean reading. Ideally you want the af ratio to be between 10.8-11.2 personally I like to run rich.


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All good input here and I agree with WB_7354 you said you're running "11-12" AFR, might want to make sure you go no higher than low 11's while holding WOT in 3rd. if not try adding a little fuel...or make yourself really happy and try some alcohol! (or ALKY CONTROL might work too;)
 

SteveZ82

Active Member
Fuel pump...10 years old. Park it till you install a new one. BLM's are okay.
That seems a little much without testing it first. Going to throw a gauge on it and drive her around one of these days. Try some Boostane. Lower the boost etc.
 

SteveZ82

Active Member
All good input here and I agree with WB_7354 you said you're running "11-12" AFR, might want to make sure you go no higher than low 11's while holding WOT in 3rd. if not try adding a little fuel...or make yourself really happy and try some alcohol! (or ALKY CONTROL might work too;)
Thanks. Agreed, all good stuff here. Here is Chicago, I wonder sometimes about 93 octane and if it's really 93. I had no knock for a while, this tank gives me knock at WOT.
 

TireFryer

The New Kid
If you can't figure out your problem, throw in new fuel pump like scooby doo said... I bought a DW300 and a stainless sending unit, and i was ablt to drop the tank and do the swap in about an hour... with a half tank of gas :LOL: Just be cautious... It's easy to pop a head gasket...
 

SteveZ82

Active Member
If you can't figure out your problem, throw in new fuel pump like scooby doo said... I bought a DW300 and a stainless sending unit, and i was ablt to drop the tank and do the swap in about an hour... with a half tank of gas :LOL: Just be cautious... It's easy to pop a head gasket...
OH yeah, for sure. I know it's not a bad job and I'm not being difficult but in these times of me being the only breadwinner because of the zombie apocalypse and our terrible...leaders...I have to be frugal and approach it as start with the easy and obvious. For example, I immediately wanted to replace my rear main seal because of an oil leak but took it to a buddy's shop, put it on the lift, the seal was dry. My leak was the PS valve cover gasket. Or the immense rattling driving around thinking something is broke and the front plate bracket was loose!
 

SCOOBY DOO

I'M NOT A MONSTER, I'M JUST AHEAD OF THE CURVE!!!
I know. Turbobuicks101. I'm just not going to throw parts at her until I get some solid readings. It's not the stock pump anyway.

The pump is 10 years old...it's gonna be weak. Changing the pump is a 2 beer job...and a hundred bucks. How much time, energy and money is a pair of head gaskets. A fuel pump is cheap insurance. It's your money and your car, so do as you wish.
 

Ttype6

Well-Known Member
I know. Turbobuicks101. I'm just not going to throw parts at her until I get some solid readings. It's not the stock pump anyway.
There is no reason to throw any parts at it. You have a good running engine that it receiving all of the fuel that it needs. Again you can only run as much boost as your leanest cylinder. Equalizing air/fuel ratio is the path to running the most boost for any given octane. Again,at your power level on gasoline,11.2 air/fuel ratio is rich. When you equalize air/fuel distribution,you will be able to run more boost and you'll be able to run at a leaner air fuel ratio without any knock retard. Do you have an RJC power plate?
 

Ttype6

Well-Known Member
The pump is 10 years old...it's gonna be weak. Changing the pump is a 2 beer job...and a hundred bucks. How much time, energy and money is a pair of head gaskets. A fuel pump is cheap insurance. It's your money and your car, so do as you wish.
I see no reason for him to change the fuel pump as it is supplying more than enough fuel for his needs and has a much higher flow rate than the stock pump. The time to change the pump comes when you have evidence that it is not able to keep up with the engine's demands based on fuel pressure and O2 sensor data. While he doesn't have WOT fuel pressure data,there is no reason to suspect pressure because he is able to run quite rich. The fuel pump he has it able to supply a 500 hp power engine. His is stock.
 

SCOOBY DOO

I'M NOT A MONSTER, I'M JUST AHEAD OF THE CURVE!!!
I see no reason for him to change the fuel pump as it is supplying more than enough fuel for his needs and has a much higher flow rate than the stock pump. The time to change the pump comes when you have evidence that it is not able to keep up with the engine's demands based on fuel pressure and O2 sensor data. While he doesn't have WOT fuel pressure data,there is no reason to suspect pressure because he is able to run quite rich. The fuel pump he has it able to supply a 500 hp power engine. His is stock.

You're right...leave a ten year old pump in it. No reason to change it. Good solid advice.
 

SteveZ82

Active Member
You're right...leave a ten year old pump in it. No reason to change it. Good solid advice.
It seems there is a lot of opinion on this matter and I appreciate everyone's input. Until I can get some more tests done with some proper equipment, I'll update this thread after the fact. I have a lot of good info now from all of you and appreciate all the help. I'm new to owning a TR so it's a learning experience for me and will do this right. I don't race or anything like that just want to sort out the things I've noticed and enjoy the car safely. Thanks to everyone's input.

Next steps:

- Test 1:1 psi on fuel pressure when in boost (base reading at around 43 psi, line off, engine warm at idle)
- Turn down boost (thanks to your video @SCOOBY DOO) - test KR at WOT
- If no KR, drive to cars and coffee
- If still have KR, add some Boostane or decrease boost
- If no KR and FP checks out, add boost
- If FP doesn't check out, investigate fuel pump (racetronix hotwire kit is installed, unsure on fuel pump brand but assuming Walbro)

Someone at one point ran some octane boost or race fuel because the plugs have this pinkish/orange tint to them. Great info again and thanks.
 

Ttype6

Well-Known Member
Simply turn the boost down and safe your money in these trying times.
You can save your money if you want to,but you should probably be made aware that our government is printing it at an alarming rate. Every day that you delay spending it,it is able to purchase less and less.

I say buy all of the high octane fuel you can get and turn the boost up.

Each year 650,000 people dye of the flu in the world. So far,the corona virus has killed 65,000 people in the whole wide world. 2 years ago,the flu killed 81,000 people in the US alone.The only thing trying about these times is that unelected democrat loving Trump hating Nazis have shut down the most prosperous economy you and I will ever know for no reason other than to tell all of us that they run the country not us.

Funk them!
 

SteveZ82

Active Member
You can save your money if you want to,but you should probably be made aware that our government is printing it at an alarming rate. Every day that you delay spending it,it is able to purchase less and less.

I say buy all of the high octane fuel you can get and turn the boost up.

Each year 650,000 people dye of the flu in the world. So far,the corona virus has killed 65,000 people in the whole wide world. 2 years ago,the flu killed 81,000 people in the US alone.The only thing trying about these times is that unelected democrat loving Trump hating Nazis have shut down the most prosperous economy you and I will ever know for no reason other than to tell all of us that they run the country not us.

Funk them!
It's more about doing proper testing and replacing things as needed. Let's just keep this thread to cars.
 

Ttype6

Well-Known Member
Until I can get some more tests done with some proper equipment
Very good!
You've been tasked with increasing the octane and noting the results. It's the easiest ,and most logical first step. You can't know what your next move will be until you do this first test. In the mean time,people will shout from the bleachers that you must do this and/or that before you've completed your first test. I'm glad to see that you want to stay on task and then decide your next move.
 

wb_7354

Active Member
There is no reason to throw any parts at it. You have a good running engine that it receiving all of the fuel that it needs. Again you can only run as much boost as your leanest cylinder. Equalizing air/fuel ratio is the path to running the most boost for any given octane. Again,at your power level on gasoline,11.2 air/fuel ratio is rich. When you equalize air/fuel distribution,you will be able to run more boost and you'll be able to run at a leaner air fuel ratio without any knock retard. Do you have an RJC power plate?

11.2 af ratio is not rich. he’s already getting kr.


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Ttype6

Well-Known Member
Let's just keep this thread to cars.
I've only given you good logical advice about your new car
11.2 af ratio is not rich. he’s already getting kr.


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It's not horrible,but for a stock engine on gasoline it is richer than it needs to be. It certainly shows that the engine isn't starving for fuel. You can't say that because it is knocking,it must be leaner than optimal. Equally when he increases the octane and it doesn't knock(and it won't),you can't blame it all on octane. Again,air distribution is problematic in these engines as they come from the factory. You can only run as much boost as the leanest cylinder/cylinders. I asked him ,in an earlier post,if he was using an RJC air distribution Power Plate. I don't think he has answered that question yet.
 

SteveZ82

Active Member
I've only given you good logical advice about your new car

It's not horrible,but for a stock engine on gasoline it is richer than it needs to be. It certainly shows that the engine isn't starving for fuel. You can't say that because it is knocking,it must be leaner than optimal. Equally when he increases the octane and it doesn't knock(and it won't),you can't blame it all on octane. Again,air distribution is problematic in these engines as they come from the factory. You can only run as much boost as the leanest cylinder/cylinders. I asked him ,in an earlier post,if he was using an RJC air distribution Power Plate. I don't think he has answered that question yet.
I am not using a power plate. My car is mostly stock with simple bolt-ons. All I want to do is tune it to it's potential as-is. If you want to know the history on this car, I'm the second owner, PO did more work to the radio than he did on this motor. I got it with the original power master (which failed and now I converted to vacuum), the original turbo (reman) is still in it and has a 3" downpipe, going out to magnaflows, 42lb injectors, applied tech cold air kit, TT chip (v5.6 at 16-18 psi, and 20/18 timing) and a hotwire kit for the pump. Car runs great; but in boost (at about 17psi) it knocks (3 degree rt). What I know now is to decrease boost, increase octane, and check fuel pressure in boost (1:1) at this point. I will do all three and report back. I think I'm just in a tuning scenario and just have to dial her in. Which seems common in these TRs.

Thanks for all the replies and help. Really appreciate it.
 
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