PPG Primer

[redhotrod]

What primer is everyone liking now days under PPG single stage DCC9300?

K36 still good? I read in some post somewhere there was something better, but I can't find the post that says what it is. Maybe DP90LF?

 

[forcefed3.8's]

DP90LF is old tech epoxy made for bare metal, not filling.
K36 is OK, IMO it is too powdery.
I like the new (newer) DPS3051 (white) DPS3055 (grey), DPS3057 (dark grey) primers. They spray very smooth, and have excellent gloss hold out and minimun shrinkage.
Use DX1791 on bare metal.

 

[Red Regal T]

I don't paint too much anymore, but I don't buy PPG. It's absurdly overpriced. Of course, if some fool wants to pay for it, I'll use it. K-36 is just high build 2K primer, isn't it? I just buy generic brands. A gallon of primer and catalyst for $64. I just bought a gallon of Eastwood epoxy mixed one to one with the catalyst for about $100.

 

[hiboom]

primer

I don't paint too much anymore, but I don't buy PPG. It's absurdly overpriced. Of course, if some fool wants to pay for it, I'll use it. K-36 is just high build 2K primer, isn't it? I just buy generic brands. A gallon of primer and catalyst for $64. I just bought a gallon of Eastwood epoxy mixed one to one with the catalyst for about $100.

Being a professional body man and painter doing what you are suggesting is fine if it's on your own stuff and I'm guilty of doing it myself if I've got stuff left over from a job.Paint is expensive and way over priced but If your ever doing a paint job for someone else or a customer and you don't use the same product start to finish and a problem arises ( paint comes off,reacts when shooting, cracks, shine fads you guys get the idea Good luck getting the paint manufacture to stand behind there product and flag you any hours for repair or replacement of the material to fix it.that's there favorite way out what ever product that wasn't there's that's the problem.Doesn't matter if it's right or not that's how they get out of fixing it.I have gotten away with mix matching product many of times,but have also had it come back and haunt me.anytime you are mixing chemicals sh*t can happen

 

[Red Regal T]

Being a professional body man and painter doing what you are suggesting is fine if it's on your own stuff and I'm guilty of doing it myself if I've got stuff left over from a job.Paint is expensive and way over priced but If your ever doing a paint job for someone else or a customer and you don't use the same product start to finish and a problem arises ( paint comes off,reacts when shooting, cracks, shine fads you guys get the idea Good luck getting the paint manufacture to stand behind there product and flag you any hours for repair or replacement of the material to fix it.that's there favorite way out what ever product that wasn't there's that's the problem.Doesn't matter if it's right or not that's how they get out of fixing it.I have gotten away with mix matching product many of times,but have also had it come back and haunt me.anytime you are mixing chemicals sh*t can happen

Unless you're a big, big, customer, they'll use any excuse for a way out because it's all about the money, and truth be told, their product isn't any better than some generic acrylic urethane. They're overpriced $hit pays for sponsorships, commissions, and other bull$hit that doesn't go on the car. Of course, the professional will sell their customer the highest priced products, because, why shouldn't they? Collision customers doesn't know $hit from shinola, and frankly, neither do most "car guys". I understand completely where you're coming from but I'm happy I don't have to put up with any of that $hit, and of course, that's where I'm coming from. I see you do understand their product is "way overpriced". I'm only sorry I ever bought their stuff. They should go broke. Thankfully today there are many affordable products and I don't have to deal with the morons in auto paint supplies with high, unlisted prices on their products because the price goes up every month, without fail.

As an aside, for the uninitiated, I painted my GN with Nason synthetic enamel, the cheapest $hit you could buy ... $32 a gallon plus the cost of activator at the time 7 years ago, and I'll put it up against any PPG painted car.

 

[hiboom]

paint

Boy I've shot a lot of nason. I painted them damn ulgy ups brown vans one winter never do that again.lays out like the old centari.Has its own smell to i thinks it's over 50.00 a gallon now.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Yep!

Boy I've shot a lot of nason. I painted them damn ulgy ups brown vans one winter never do that again.lays out like the old centari.Has its own smell to i thinks it's over 50.00 a gallon now.

$hit smells like house paint when you hit it w/ a grinder!
Omni is right there with it....

 

[hiboom]

paint

we do a lot of high end stuff so i get to shoot a wide variety of paint glasroot,ppg,house of color and DuPont mostly.at least when I'm doing my own they always give me the materials for free that saves a 1000.00

 

[redhotrod]

Reason I am asking about the primer is about 7 years ago I painted my GN with Omni black with Omni clear. Well for the most part of those years the car was a garage queen, till I bought a new house and the car had to sit outside for a year. That 1 year it sat outside ate up the clearcoat on the hood, roof and trunk BAD. The basecoat seems ok but I got to sand all the clear off, so this time around, I am just using something trusted. Painting the same car more than once in a decade sucks!

 

[Red Regal T]

$hit smells like house paint when you hit it w/ a grinder!
Omni is right there with it....

Maybe it's just me, but I don't judge paint by how it smells when you're grinding it off. In fact, come to think of it, it's impossible to tell what kind of paint your grinding off. LOL!

 

[Red Regal T]

Reason I am asking about the primer is about 7 years ago I painted my GN with Omni black with Omni clear. Well for the most part of those years the car was a garage queen, till I bought a new house and the car had to sit outside for a year. That 1 year it sat outside ate up the clearcoat on the hood, roof and trunk BAD. The basecoat seems ok but I got to sand all the clear off, so this time around, I am just using something trusted. Painting the same car more than once in a decade sucks!

Did you ever think had you not garaged that car that paint would have went to $hit long before, after only a couple years? Why do you think the primer would be to blame for your clear coat drying out? Also, how you take care of car, washing and waxing, has a lot to do with how well paint holds up. Paint trusted by who? Talk to different people, you get different opinions.

 

[hiboom]

Did you ever think had you not garaged that car that paint would have went to $hit long before, after only a couple years? Why do you think the primer would be to blame for your clear coat drying out? Also, how you take care of car, washing and waxing, has a lot to do with how well paint holds up. Paint trusted by who? Talk to different people, you get different opinions.

+2 I agree i think you just prolonged what would have happened anyway,could have been bad material old material.I have even received the wrong activator in mis labeled cans.In the Midwest you can get paint and clear that has been frozen and is no good.

 

[Red Regal T]

we do a lot of high end stuff so i get to shoot a wide variety of paint glasroot,ppg,house of color and DuPont mostly.at least when I'm doing my own they always give me the materials for free that saves a 1000.00

Now you're talkin' .. :biggrin:

 

[BIGPSI]

Unless you're a big, big, customer, they'll use any excuse for a way out because it's all about the money, and truth be told, their product isn't any better than some generic acrylic urethane. They're overpriced $hit pays for sponsorships, commissions, and other bull$hit that doesn't go on the car. Of course, the professional will sell their customer the highest priced products, because, why shouldn't they? Collision customers doesn't know $hit from shinola, and frankly, neither do most "car guys". I understand completely where you're coming from but I'm happy I don't have to put up with any of that $hit, and of course, that's where I'm coming from. I see you do understand their product is "way overpriced". I'm only sorry I ever bought their stuff. They should go broke. Thankfully today there are many affordable products and I don't have to deal with the morons in auto paint supplies with high, unlisted prices on their products because the price goes up every month, without fail.

As an aside, for the uninitiated, I painted my GN with Nason synthetic enamel, the cheapest $hit you could buy ... $32 a gallon plus the cost of activator at the time 7 years ago, and I'll put it up against any PPG painted car.

car looks good! i used enamel years ago and we would sand it and rub it and it looks amazing. seems to hold up well too

 

[st1nger]

whoa

that's a paint job not a body guy nor a painter used dp90 as my primer on interior and frame used acid etch 1st then dp90 went on smooth and clean

That Nason never heard of it is it single or two stage awsome job but 80% of P-job is prep prep prep what did you do to get those results we would all like to know

Painted my other halfs, pathfinder a few years ago with omni base coat held up like iron smooth clean but the clear coat burned off after a couple years somebody said it didn't have enough uv protectant , haven't used the clear since Currently in off frame restoration of my ttype so very interested in what red t did to get those awsome results

 

[Red Regal T]

that's a paint job not a body guy nor a painter used dp90 as my primer on interior and frame used acid etch 1st then dp90 went on smooth and clean

That Nason never heard of it is it single or two stage awsome job but 80% of P-job is prep prep prep what did you do to get those results we would all like to know

Painted my other halfs, pathfinder a few years ago with omni base coat held up like iron smooth clean but the clear coat burned off after a couple years somebody said it didn't have enough uv protectant , haven't used the clear since Currently in off frame restoration of my ttype so very interested in what red t did to get those awsome results

Briefly, I blocked the car flat with an 18" long block, appropriately primered and blocked flat with at least a 12 long block, painted around the car with black & hardener a couple coats, then a 50/50 mixture of clear and black for another 5 or 6 coats. Give it a couple days to set up and start blocking with at least a 12" block, endeavoring to block panels evenly with 500 grit sandpaper to remove paint texture. Then I went to 800 grit, then repeated with 1200, and 1500. Then compound with 2" pile wool pads.

 

[hiboom]

paint

here's one i painted last week with shop line paint it's a base clear

 

[Red Regal T]

Just to add a few updates, and this is aimed at those who would like to paint their own cars. I'm painting my El Camino hybrid, while at the same time changing the chevy into a Buick. Of course, I have the doors off, and for that matter the whole nose. I painted the doors and a fender about 5 weeks ago using the base coat/clear coat paint I got here ...

Super Jet Black Urethane Basecoat Clear Coat Kit Featuring 5 Star Clear Coat: Automotive Paint, Auto Paint, Car Paint

Costs a lot, don't it?

As you can see, money is no object because all I have to pay for is paint. Hell, I even went ahead and bought an extra gallon of clear and activator for it, so I can use plenty. I don't have to worry about getting soaked buying PPG or Dupont. This stuff is just as good. I just polished out one of my doors and I'm impressed, and I know what I'm looking at. This stuff is nothing short of black glass. So, no, fellas, you don't have to pay $2000 for material to paint your car. Primers are cheap enough, too. I also am appalled by the price of compounds and hand glazes. 3M seems to have the braindead market sewn up there. $80 to $110 for a gallon of Imperial hand glaze? ... give me a break. I found some meguiars stuff that works exactly the same way, with a buffer or by hand for only $42 a gallon....

Save on Meguiars M0901 at ToolTopia.com

I used DRX 80 compound for years, but they don't make it anymore. I guess when you get people to pay $20 a qt for watered down compound, why would you sell a gallon of paste for $30? I found a compound by Meguiars that I have to admit, is far better than the PPG I used to use. No grit, but cuts fast. Here it is ...

Bottom-line pricing on Meguiars M8501 at ToolTopia.com


It just isn't a rule you get what you pay for anymore. You either get your money's worth by not going with the herd, or you get hosed. In today's deliberately programmed society, the rule is everybody's trying to hose everyone else. I just happened to have come up before this coarsening of America became the trend, and I do know who's behind it.

 

[st1nger]

dlp90

Red T: awsome links great pricing all of us are not sheep I've never been a follower I have always looked at result and your seem to be super,

I recommended dlp90 because I am a little old school, only in what my friends who paint everything from high dollar daily drivers "vettes, merc, bmw" to a couple who paint race cars all the way up to nascar rides for a living

when I started my restoration from the ground up it was and has been to go to metal since laq /paint checking go's all the way into the metal surface which most amature like myself don't know

First all my bare metal was painted with acid etching primer 3m padded then shot dlp90 results was even better than hoped clean and layed out smooth as a baby's butt the nexted stage was blocking then to paint with 2K then block again

The point is I've tried to research as much as possible and when it comes time to layout the base coat I 'am always looking for advice and tips
and from what I see you have a lot of both to offer to included the great links hope you are there when I start the nexted stage of work

I'am all about result not a brand thanks for the information we will all use what ever info we get

 

[davelostmissing]

Now this is just heresay, but IIRC the hotrodders where saying DLP has been reformulated and now it's something to stay away from.

As an experiment I've used HBE400 on chrome rims- seems to really stick.
one winter so far...