popped head gasket

Looks like they got u too Brian. Sorry to hear about this.

Hey Captain Oil Primer, it's not surprising to see your worthless 2 cents in this thread. This coming from the same guy who did not want us to bag or protect the fresh shortblock we just did and then thow it in the front seat of a dirty car. Real surprise when that didn't work out so good!

Brian's deck was in good condition and had been square decked already so there was no need for him to spend the money to get it done again.

That really sounds like we got him doesn't it?
 
Looks like they got u too Brian. Sorry to hear about this.

Go Weber!

Guys this does nothing to help the OP with the problem. IMO there was abnormal combustion events happening there. The fire rings all show evidence of compression leakage as well as the burned out graphite behind the ring. It takes a lot of pressure to do that.
 
Brian... I would still measure how far in the hole the pistons are, find the cc measurement of the pistons, etc. and see where your compression is at. Atleast just for your own information. Now would be an easy time to do it...

Also, FWIW... I have used o-ringed (by Dave Weber) ported iron heads in conjunction with GM/Victor head gaskets with success in the past. I still use the GM/Victor head gaskets on motors with block/head decks in the same surface condition finish as yours.


K.
 
Hey Captain Oil Primer, it's not surprising to see your worthless 2 cents in this thread. This coming from the same guy who did not want us to bag or protect the fresh shortblock we just did and then thow it in the front seat of a dirty car. Real surprise when that didn't work out so good!

Brian's deck was in good condition and had been square decked already so there was no need for him to spend the money to get it done again.

That really sounds like we got him doesn't it?

By the way moron. When I asked ur guys if it needed to be baged they the told me it would be fine without a bag. And once again I primed the motor with a priming tool for over 15 mins. You have nothing to go on other than your flunkie employee told u.
 
didnt want this thread to turn ugly by bringing up machine shop names. as for weber they didnt do anything wrong i installed heads as well as tuned the car. in this thread i am just trying to get some clarification if in fact this was a tuning issue or an assembly error julio did clarify an assembly error and his knowledge is priceless but he also stated which in fact is true that without a log its hard to say. .i will take all the guidance that i have recieved and make a choice. just stuck on whats best for me and my tuning skills getting orings or a fresh deck with cometics i do understand that the cometics are less forgiving.i can get an 8 bolt cometic for the same price just have to sign a waiver. ncturbos what do you mean by abnormal combustion going on? heads lifting? torqued improper. please clarify better. thanks
 
Drama left at the door.

One thing to check on your particular engine block would be the head bolt holes in relation to deck surface. I have seen on a few engines that GM machined the head bolt holes crooked. I had a similar issue with a factory engine where one side blew (passenger side) and the drivers side looked brand new with ZERO signs of failure anywhere. When installing the heads back on, when I torqued the center two intake side bolts (ARP) they would back off slowly about 1/16 of a turn. I would torque them and then take the wrench off and visually watch the bolt turn counter clockwise. I have NEVER seen that before. I've literally torqued over a million fasteners in my life and have NEVER seen a bolt back off before. After investigating the issue I found that the head bolt holes were not perpendicular to the deck surface. Not all of the holes on that side, just three of them. I ended up elongating the holes in the cylinder head and then using self aligning washers under the bolt head. Problem solved. After that I check all engines for this condition. So far I have found three or four blocks this way. One StageI 4.1, and three 109 blocks. Two were factory NEW short blocks.
Not sure if this is your issue, or just detonation on that side in conjuction with a possible assembly issue. I have good luck with Cometics on a 109 block, as I do with 9441's too. The 9441 is a nice safety valve for those not up to speed on tuning.
To check the bolt holes, thread a stud in and use a machinists square along side the stud in 90* incrementals. Only takes a couple of minutes. To fix it correctly takes a good machinist and a good mill work with a step stud or enlarge to 1/2". Thread inserts will work, too.
 
Drama left at the door.

One thing to check on your particular engine block would be the head bolt holes in relation to deck surface. I have seen on a few engines that GM machined the head bolt holes crooked. I had a similar issue with a factory engine where one side blew (passenger side) and the drivers side looked brand new with ZERO signs of failure anywhere. When installing the heads back on, when I torqued the center two intake side bolts (ARP) they would back off slowly about 1/16 of a turn. I would torque them and then take the wrench off and visually watch the bolt turn counter clockwise. I have NEVER seen that before. I've literally torqued over a million fasteners in my life and have NEVER seen a bolt back off before. After investigating the issue I found that the head bolt holes were not perpendicular to the deck surface. Not all of the holes on that side, just three of them. I ended up elongating the holes in the cylinder head and then using self aligning washers under the bolt head. Problem solved. After that I check all engines for this condition. So far I have found three or four blocks this way. One StageI 4.1, and three 109 blocks. Two were factory NEW short blocks.
Not sure if this is your issue, or just detonation on that side in conjuction with a possible assembly issue. I have good luck with Cometics on a 109 block, as I do with 9441's too. The 9441 is a nice safety valve for those not up to speed on tuning.
To check the bolt holes, thread a stud in and use a machinists square along side the stud in 90* incrementals. Only takes a couple of minutes. To fix it correctly takes a good machinist and a good mill work with a step stud or enlarge to 1/2". Thread inserts will work, too.
wow interedting will have to check that out. thanks
 
By the way moron. When I asked ur guys if it needed to be baged they the told me it would be fine without a bag. And once again I primed the motor with a priming tool for over 15 mins. You have nothing to go on other than your flunkie employee told u.

@stagemonster

Being such an authority on these engines, with the ability to assign blame for engine failure, you mean you lack common sense to cover your engine when it is transported without an oil pan? I was standing right there when you picked it up and asked you if you wanted the engine wrapped and YOU said it would be OK and proceeded to load it up. Who in their right mind would transport a freshly rebuilt engine in their front seat with the entire rotating assembly embedded into french fries, dirt and whatever else may have been on your front seat?

Get your facts right. Just like your priming story, your latest post is also false and defamatory.
 
Mr. Weber, are you implying the "french fries" fried this man's engine? Really? When this issue first surfaced months ago with the customer, word was, Weber told him to go pound salt? Granted, it's NOT a perfect world, but, what has Weber done or offered to make things right with an engine that stage paid good money for? The tone of your posts is defensive and certainly not professional!
 
Mr. Weber, are you implying the "french fries" fried this man's engine? Really?

I'm not Mr. Weber - I am an employee named Bill. I am not implying, but stating fact that this person chose to load a freshly rebuilt engine into the front seat of his vehicle with the entire uncovered bottom end exposed to the dirt, lint, debris, etc. that was present on his seat.

When this issue first surfaced months ago with the customer, word was, Weber told him to go pound salt?

Apparently you missed the part where we offered to help the customer by repairing the engine at nearly the cost of parts, even though we were not responsible for the failure to protect the engine from contamination and prime the pump properly.

Granted, it's NOT a perfect world, but, what has Weber done or offered to make things right with an engine that stage paid good money for?

See above.

The tone of your posts is defensive and certainly not professional!

Then I suppose other posters calling employees "flunkies" is professional in your books? I stated the facts as I was witness to and the facts speak for themselves.
 
As bison said, the BS isn't helping the OP here. If you have an issue with someone keep it to PM's or deal directly with them.

This is not the area to put greivences or issues. Please stop now. Thank you. :)
 
The best way to solve your head gasket problem, is to call me. I've tryed everthing under the sun. 'Ive ran 28 lbs of boost with head bolts. 330 801-2518
 
The best way to solve your head gasket problem, is to call me. I've tryed everthing under the sun. 'Ive ran 28 lbs of boost with head bolts. 330 801-2518
will do thank you.

As bison said, the BS isn't helping the OP here. If you have an issue with someone keep it to PM's or deal directly with them.

This is not the area to put greivences or issues. Please stop now. Thank you. :)
thanks charlie
 
I'm not Mr. Weber - I am an employee named Bill. I am not implying, but stating fact that this person chose to load a freshly rebuilt engine into the front seat of his vehicle with the entire uncovered bottom end exposed to the dirt, lint, debris, etc. that was present on his seat.



Apparently you missed the part where we offered to help the customer by repairing the engine at nearly the cost of parts, even though we were not responsible for the failure to protect the engine from contamination and prime the pump properly.



See above.

Then I suppose other posters calling employees "flunkies" is professional in your books? I stated the facts as I was witness to and the facts speak for themselves.
Your lieing when I asked for it to be wraped u said it was ok without it and u ship them that way all the time. Sorry quipped didn't want to polute your thread just mad from getting burned from these poor bussiness people .
 
Your lieing when I asked for it to be wraped u said it was ok without it and u ship them that way all the time. Sorry quipped didn't want to polute your thread just mad from getting burned from these poor bussiness people .

You have been warned... Go back to your thread and you can post all you want on the subject. This is another members thread and please do not disrupt it again...


Please...
 
You have been warned... Go back to your thread and you can post all you want on the subject. This is another members thread and please do not disrupt it again...


Please...

Even when your threatening the eject button you Buick guys are polite;)Truly fast with class:D Ok back to the subject,could the block really be that out when using composite gaskets to go like that:confused:

Kevin
 
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