intake manifold gasket problems

longbedGTs

high on gas fumes
I replaced the intake manifold gasket a couple months ago and have slowly discovered the oil is slightly becoming contaminated with water(no antifreeze). No oil in the radiator. I initially thought the oil might be milking due to too much methanol being sprayed, but ruled that out after turning off the kit and taking a couple test drives(after changing the oil/filter). This started happening after R&Ring the intake gasket, so I don't suspect a headgasket leak. I have a Champion stock ported intake, TQ to 32 ft/lbs, and used both of the rubber strips that came with the gasket kit. Also had a slight oil leak at the back that caused oil to pool around the flat area of the block next to the knock sensor. After reading up some more, I retorqued the intake to 40 ft/lbs, changed the oil/filter, and took it for another test drive. The oil leak at the back is gone now, but the oil is still becoming contaminated. No oil in the radiator at all.

I did install the intake gasket dry, but did use some permatex at the ends of the rubber strips. Since a retorque didn't solve the problem, is it possible with the Champion intake that the rubber strips are somehow not allowing the intake to fully seat against the heads? Also reading that some permatex should be smeared around the water jackets to help gasket seal. I didn't know this was needed or i would have done it the first time. Going to be R&Ring the gasket again and will use 40 ft/lbs TQ, prematex around water jackets, and will just use a bead of permatex in place of the 2 rubber strips. Should I use permatex around the intake ports as well for extra insurance?
 

TexasT

Texas, Where are you from
I'm a bead of goo guy and not use the rubber strips. I'm pretty sure I did the around the water port with goo on mine but it has been a while. I've heard and read good on the Right Stuff but I've pretty much always used the black permatex type stuff.

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HotAirWH1

Active Member
I replaced the intake manifold gasket a couple months ago and have slowly discovered the oil is slightly becoming contaminated with water(no antifreeze). No oil in the radiator. I initially thought the oil might be milking due to too much methanol being sprayed, but ruled that out after turning off the kit and taking a couple test drives(after changing the oil/filter). This started happening after R&Ring the intake gasket, so I don't suspect a headgasket leak. I have a Champion stock ported intake, TQ to 32 ft/lbs, and used both of the rubber strips that came with the gasket kit. Also had a slight oil leak at the back that caused oil to pool around the flat area of the block next to the knock sensor. After reading up some more, I retorqued the intake to 40 ft/lbs, changed the oil/filter, and took it for another test drive. The oil leak at the back is gone now, but the oil is still becoming contaminated. No oil in the radiator at all.

I did install the intake gasket dry, but did use some permatex at the ends of the rubber strips. Since a retorque didn't solve the problem, is it possible with the Champion intake that the rubber strips are somehow not allowing the intake to fully seat against the heads? Also reading that some permatex should be smeared around the water jackets to help gasket seal. I didn't know this was needed or i would have done it the first time. Going to be R&Ring the gasket again and will use 40 ft/lbs TQ, prematex around water jackets, and will just use a bead of permatex in place of the 2 rubber strips. Should I use permatex around the intake ports as well for extra insurance?
I just went through this. Had to do it twice - to do it nice ;). First time around I just used a new MAHLE MS15958 Engine Intake Manifold Gasket Set - Gasket set Beaded steel. I used the rubber strips and black Permatex gasket maker. Did the corners on the rubber strips, bead around the water jackets then used the torque sequence recommended to #32 ft./lb. Results were as you described.
The second try, I slowed down a bit and took my time. I used a new MAHLE MS15960 Engine Intake Manifold Gasket Set - Beaded Steel; For Aluminum Manifold. I also switched gasket maker to Permatex 25228 The Right Stuff 90 Minute Gasket Maker (and followed the directions to the tee - be patient). I beaded the rubber strip corners and around the water jacket, placed the new gasket then use a thin film of gasket maker around the water jacket holes again. Carefully placed the intake manifold and hand tightened down and waited as per the Right Stuff gasket maker instructions (1 hour). I didn't think I could hand tighten the manifold down enough by hand to squeeze the gasket maker so I used a socket & extension by hand to give it a little extra oomph. Then I waited the hour. Then proceeded with the torque sequence to #32 ft./lb. I waited overnight and in the morning I checked the torque on the nuts. I then went on installing the Turbo, Throttle Body and other appendages. This time I got it. Expensive to say the least. Two intake gaskets, 12 quarts of oil and oil stains all over my concrete garage floor :eek:
My new motto is: We do it nice cus we do it twice. Good Luck !!!
 

longbedGTs

high on gas fumes
I just went through this. Had to do it twice - to do it nice ;). First time around I just used a new MAHLE MS15958 Engine Intake Manifold Gasket Set - Gasket set Beaded steel. I used the rubber strips and black Permatex gasket maker. Did the corners on the rubber strips, bead around the water jackets then used the torque sequence recommended to #32 ft./lb. Results were as you described.
The second try, I slowed down a bit and took my time. I used a new MAHLE MS15960 Engine Intake Manifold Gasket Set - Beaded Steel; For Aluminum Manifold. I also switched gasket maker to Permatex 25228 The Right Stuff 90 Minute Gasket Maker (and followed the directions to the tee - be patient). I beaded the rubber strip corners and around the water jacket, placed the new gasket then use a thin film of gasket maker around the water jacket holes again. Carefully placed the intake manifold and hand tightened down and waited as per the Right Stuff gasket maker instructions (1 hour). I didn't think I could hand tighten the manifold down enough by hand to squeeze the gasket maker so I used a socket & extension by hand to give it a little extra oomph. Then I waited the hour. Then proceeded with the torque sequence to #32 ft./lb. I waited overnight and in the morning I checked the torque on the nuts. I then went on installing the Turbo, Throttle Body and other appendages. This time I got it. Expensive to say the least. Two intake gaskets, 12 quarts of oil and oil stains all over my concrete garage floor :eek:
My new motto is: We do it nice cus we do it twice. Good Luck !!!

It's good to know that this is likely the problem. Since you just went through the same thing, did you ever take off the breather and look down into the valve cover at the rockers and such? How did it look? Mine has condensation on the side walls of the valve cover and some milky pools in the various pockets on the head. Oddly enough, the oil(checking on dipstick) doesn't show any major signs of water contamination(but is still noticable). I'm guessing the water leak at the head/intake area is making its way inside the valve cover and then taking some time to reach the(further away) oil in the oil pan. Well...I enjoy working on the ol GN, but don't care for having to do the same job twice. Guess I should have done a little more reading before diving head first into it.
 

HotAirWH1

Active Member
Yes, after my first attempt I drained all the oil out and with the valve covers off and intake manifold off I poured a couple of quarts of oil along the rockers and along the push rods to remove remanence of the coolant that was laying around. I didn't want to use the first intake manifold gasket I installed thinking I may have compressed the beads and didn't want to take a chance of it not sealing properly on a second go around. The MAHLE MS15960 is for an aluminum intake so I opted for that one on my second try.

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I first did the torque sequence to #20 lb./ft. going through it twice, then #32 ft./lbs. twice. The next morning I checked the bolts in sequence again before I reassembled the top half of the Intake Manifold appendages.
 
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