Piston advice

lolo86GN

Active Member
Joined
May 18, 2012
Heard what I thought to be a rod knock.. Checked oil filter and it had metal shavings so out came the motor.. When the oil was drained it looked milky gray so I thought the motor was done... After taking the motor apart to check for damage, everything looked perfect. So where did all these metal shavings come from? The front cover did have significant wear from the cam button.. Maybe all the shavings came from there? Either way the motor is out and at the machine shop. The question is should I stick with the stock pistons or spend the almost $700 dollars for new JE pistons? The block will probably only require a hone as this motor looked to have had and easy life. Build is as follows:

Stock block
Stock crank
Stock rods
2 Billet center caps
ARP rod bolts, main studs & head studs
210/215 roller cam
Champion irons
Champion ported intake
Harland Sharp 1.55 roller rockers
Bison spec'd turbo

This motor should put down good power so a tranny is also on the list of upgrades.. Are pistons worth the money for this type of build? And I know there are cheaper pistons out there, but would rather go the lighter JE's if I have to get new pistons. The car will run alky and could see 25#- 28# of boost at the track.. TIA
 
Heard what I thought to be a rod knock.. Checked oil filter and it had metal shavings so out came the motor.. When the oil was drained it looked milky gray so I thought the motor was done... After taking the motor apart to check for damage, everything looked perfect. So where did all these metal shavings come from? The front cover did have significant wear from the cam button.. Maybe all the shavings came from there? Either way the motor is out and at the machine shop. The question is should I stick with the stock pistons or spend the almost $700 dollars for new JE pistons? The block will probably only require a hone as this motor looked to have had and easy life. Build is as follows:

Stock block .020 over
Stock crank ...forged crank $600
Stock rods ... Scat forged rods $400
2 Billet center caps ... not really needed unless you put a forged crank in.
ARP rod bolts (comes with scat rods), main studs & head studs
210/215 roller cam (ask Bison for a cam grind)
Champion irons
Champion ported intake
Harland Sharp 1.55 roller rockers
Bison spec'd turbo

This motor should put down good power so a tranny (Lonnie's Stage 2) is also on the list of upgrades.. Are pistons worth the money for this type of build? (Yes!) And I know there are cheaper pistons out there, but would rather go the lighter JE's if I have to get new pistons. The car will run alky and could see 25#- 28# of boost at the track.. TIA

Few comments added.
Do it right=Do it once!
 
Jasjamz thanks for chiming in.. You are right about doing it right=doing it once... We will see if the budget allows for those extras you mentioned... And I believe with the forged crank I will need a balancer and flexplate meaning more $$$$$.. Never ending story...lol
 
Jasjamz thanks for chiming in.. You are right about doing it right=doing it once... We will see if the budget allows for those extras you mentioned... And I believe with the forged crank I will need a balancer and flexplate meaning more $$$$$.. Never ending story...lol

Nope, depends on if you get a internal or external balance crank. I used a neutral balance stock balancer, forged crank Steel caps on 1,2,and 3, Scat rods, and Diamond pistons and a used JW flexplate. Had it all balanced and its all good. I like the look of the nice balancers, I guess help at some point... Tons of options and opinions here on this board.
 
When you say 'shavings' do you mean just some sparkles or do you mean shavings as in a shaved off piece like when you whittle wood?

I'm guessing the timing cover wear is from a stock plastic cam button and not a roller bearing?
 
Now you've got me thinking... it's only money right?? Time to rob a bank! Thanks
 
When you say 'shavings' do you mean just some sparkles or do you mean shavings as in a shaved off piece like when you whittle wood?

I'm guessing the timing cover wear is from a stock plastic cam button and not a roller bearing?


Maybe "shavings" was the wrong word.. Only gray "sparkly" material.. No visible damage to anything but the cover from the stock plastic cam button as you stated..
 
Just checking as 'shavings' generally mean dust in a machine shop but big ass slivers in other environments.

For the piston size, you need to whip out the bore gauge and see where it will come clean at first. Then go from there.
 
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