Opinions needed - does this rebuild estimate sound reasonable?

syclone98

New Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2003
I've never had a GN motor rebuilt before so I'm not sure if it sounded reasonable or not.

Please freel free to chime in with any and all opinions.

Thanks,
Christopher
 

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Balance price looks high to me but it is california. Also I thought I heard that you do not want to replace valve seats on these motors. You might consider a set of heads. They are readily available & cheap.
 
Would that be readily available for new or used heads?

How important is having it balanced? The car will probably end up being a daily driver for the most part but still see some action at the track.

I was also curious as to whether it was safe running a crank that will end up having been turned .020.
 
Would that be readily available for new or used heads?

How important is having it balanced? The car will probably end up being a daily driver for the most part but still see some action at the track.

I was also curious as to whether it was safe running a crank that will end up having been turned .020.

If you going to have it done . Do it right the first time. Have it balanced . It is money well spent.

I also agree about finding another other set of heads.

I ran a .030" under for many years.
 
Also make sure they use the Buick engine specs, NOT the small block Chevy specs. These engines run tighter clearances than the Chevy’s.
 
I'm a little confused - what exactly about what the machine shop wants to do to the heads isn't advised? Doesn't that fall into the category of a run-of-the-mill valve job?
 
Cutting the seats would be fine I believe but not replacing them. Get a set of heads, you can buy them used for $50-$80 for a pair. Unless you really don't need seats? I think you will be OK with the crank, depending on how fast you want to go.
 
Why wouldn't you want to replace valve seats? I've never heard anything negative about replacing seats on these heads???????

I'd be more concerned about replacing valve guides!??? Are they planning on installing false guides or bronze thin-wall inserts? I'd opt for the inserts over false guides.

I also didn't see anything about the intake valves/guides or the valve job itself.

There are lots of very good materials available for seat replacement that are better than the cast iron integral seat.
 
The only thing I'd be worried about is buying a used set of heads only to find out that they're no better than the ones I currently have now.
 
My concern would be not so much the cost as much as how reputable the shop is and most importantly how experienced are they with turbobuicks, not only the rebuild, but getting them to run right and tuned when completed. I know a lot of good reputable shops that I would not let anywhere near my turbobuick at rebuild time. Actually at any time. HTH & good luck with the build.
 
Why wouldn't you want to replace valve seats? I've never heard anything negative about replacing seats on these heads???????

I'd be more concerned about replacing valve guides!??? Are they planning on installing false guides or bronze thin-wall inserts? I'd opt for the inserts over false guides.

I also didn't see anything about the intake valves/guides or the valve job itself.

There are lots of very good materials available for seat replacement that are better than the cast iron integral seat.

I can't remember where I heard this but thought it was worth a mention in case there is any truth to it. Call a reputable turbo buick engine builder & ask before you have it done.
 
I have a completely reconditioned set of heads unused for $250. plus shipping if interested-i paid over $400. to have them done.
 
My concern would be not so much the cost as much as how reputable the shop is and most importantly how experienced are they with turbobuicks, not only the rebuild, but getting them to run right and tuned when completed. I know a lot of good reputable shops that I would not let anywhere near my turbobuick at rebuild time. Actually at any time. HTH & good luck with the build.

that my friend is the best reply :cool: oh we have run in the 9s with a street GN with a .020 crank :p
 
I've never had a GN motor rebuilt before so I'm not sure if it sounded reasonable or not.

Please freel free to chime in with any and all opinions.

Thanks,
Christopher

thats not a bad price. i have some one who wants 1500 for disassembling and reassembling my motor. i supplied all parts and material needed.there was NO machine work whatsoever. i also did some research on here to find out some specs and opinions. i had champion heads, a BGC intake and atr headers other than that it was a stock rebuild. the motor looks great,he painted up real nice.but he still didnt get the timing chain tensioner and had to put the stock push rods back in because he didnt know the comp. cams ones didnt fit :confused:
 
That doesn't look too bad if the shop knows what they're doing. The price will probably be at least $1000-$1500 higher than that estimate. I would also see what kind of warranty the shop is going to give you.
 
Throw the heads out if you need seats. I didnt see anything on there about the front cover either. The oil circuit needs attention.
 
Also make sure they use the Buick engine specs, NOT the small block Chevy specs. These engines run tighter clearances than the Chevy’s.

Agree with Fred 1000%!!!!!! Research the clearances yourself and DEMAND that that's what they shoot for. If they try to tell you that the Buick specs are too tight, go somewhere else.
 
How about...

the price for the pistons, rings, gaskets and no mention of cam brgs. this is kind of open ended $$$. I believe that's what blkbandit is referring to. IMHO, unless these fellows are buick experienced, it's russian roulette!:eek: Only the holes in your wallet and your left standing w/a new boat-anchor wondering if you have a hole in your head for not listening to your fellow board members!?:eek:.....lol:biggrin:
 
Agree with Fred 1000%!!!!!! Research the clearances yourself and DEMAND that that's what they shoot for. If they try to tell you that the Buick specs are too tight, go somewhere else.

Oh yeah, how many engines have you lost due to too loose bearing clearance?:rolleyes:
 
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