NVU gauge cluster installation.

Can't load a video here. Here it is with back lighting. What happens when power is applied is the dials make a full sweep clockwise to the right, return all the way back full left and then the dials point to where there respective signal is telling them to point

My word, you know you stuff, hope I can get one gauge to work.LOL
 
Great Job.

I urge CAUTION on the programing buttons. Having re read the instructions for the 4th time today I stand corrected as to where they go. The connectors supplied lead me to believe they went in the 2 pin receptacle in the back of the instrument where the directions say they utilize 2 of the 3 pins in the 3 pin connector!!! The problem is the 2 pin plugs supplied will not go into the 3 pin receptacle.

I'll check on the solution today when I call.
 
I think the only thing the 3 pin socket is used for is programing the fuel gauge. The others all use the 2 pin socket. I think all the gauges are the same internally with the faces being different. The buttons can be used for recall AND for programing the gauges so the backlighting flashes if the programed parameter is exceeded. For example i'll be setting mine up to flash if my temp. Is too high, fuel goes too low etc.

I was wrong here and the 2 pin plugs are installed in the wrong place. They won't fit in the 3 pin receptacle where they belong. I hope no one was lead down the wrong road due to my error.
 
I hope I get an e- mail this week... I'm excited to get this in and start removing other gauges.
 
Wiring clarification.
My Dumb Ass didn't look close enough when I unpackaged everything. I thought all the programing buttons were like the one for the speedo reset, without a connector on the end.

1.The switch with out the connector is for the speedo.
2.The switch with the connector (there are 5 of them) go into the 3 pin receptacle on the small instruments and are for calibration.
3. The connector with 2 wires is for the 2 pin receptacle on the back of the small instruments and is used to trigger a remote warning.
4. The problem I see is the wires on the program buttons aren't long enough to go anywhere. I talked to Mark at NVU and he is sending me an additional 12 pin connector with terminals ( the same as the 3 connectors on the back of the panel) and I'll be splicing the programing switches into those to keep things tidy.
 

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Wiring clarification.
My Dumb Ass didn't look close enough when I unpackaged everything. I thought all the programing buttons were like the one for the speedo reset, without a connector on the end.

1.The switch with out the connector is for the speedo.
2.The switch with the connector (there are 5 of them) go into the 3 pin receptacle on the small instruments and are for calibration.
3. The connector with 2 wires is for the 2 pin receptacle on the back of the small instruments and is used to trigger a remote warning.
4. The problem I see is the wires on the program buttons aren't long enough to go anywhere. I talked to Mark at NVU and he is sending me an additional 12 pin connector with terminals ( the same as the 3 connectors on the back of the panel) and I'll be splicing the programing switches into those to keep things tidy.

I believe they make those button wires so short because NVU believes that people program the warnings and then remove the buttons or tie them up to all the rest of the wiring. He called them "set and forget." Not sure NVU has dealt with a customer base that really wants to use the recall features. Wouldn't take much to splice in the exact length of wire to get the button located exactly where you would like it.

I am super pleased with Mark at NVU and his customer service is top notch! He answered emails this weekend within minutes of me sending them. Talked with him about my button situation and had a shipping email before getting off the phone.

About the only thing I have a legitimate gripe about, is that Steve wasn't allowed to get a prototype and write the instruction manual for the rest of us. I guess compromise is the name for this game. It's forums like this that allow us to get it all straightened out and for that I am thankful.
 
I believe they make those button wires so short because NVU believes that people program the warnings and then remove the buttons or tie them up to all the rest of the wiring. He called them "set and forget." Not sure NVU has dealt with a customer base that really wants to use the recall features. Wouldn't take much to splice in the exact length of wire to get the button located exactly where you would like it.

I am super pleased with Mark at NVU and his customer service is top notch! He answered emails this weekend within minutes of me sending them. Talked with him about my button situation and had a shipping email before getting off the phone.

About the only thing I have a legitimate gripe about, is that Steve wasn't allowed to get a prototype and write the instruction manual for the rest of us. I guess compromise is the name for this game. It's forums like this that allow us to get it all straightened out and for that I am thankful.

Couldn't agree more. Set and forget makes sense but we're Turbo Regal types who don't know what set and forget means!!! I need to be able to play with everything. (y) I'm going to put all the buttons next to the headlight switch and have a overlay made by TR Customs.
 
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Couldn't agree more. Set and forget makes sense but we're Turbo Regal types who don't know what set and forget means!!! I need to be able to play with everything. (y) I'm going to put all the buttons next to the headlight switch and have a overlay made by TR Customs.

I sent TR Customs a email about the overlay? I haven't heard back from him yet. I will let you guys know if I hear anything.
 
Close ups with the dash bezel installed. On a positive note, I found all of my clips. These pics are with all the clips installed. I hope I'm able to find them all when I take it back out to solder all the splices
I used some plastic trim adhesive to hold my clips on and they haven't fallen off when I remove the panel since.
 
On the yellow 2 pulse sender are the 2 wires. One goes to ground and the other goes to VSS. Does the original VSS get unplugged when we remove the factory gauge panel, I'm thinking the obvious yes.

Question: What plug are we looking to tap into, and specifically which wire? Pictures would be awesome as I "think" 2 plugs go into the original VSS?

Question: Does the white wire coming off the 3-wire sender go to plug #2, wire #1 ORANGE ??

Question: Are any of you guys planning to use the Casper's Dash Mate Plug? I will be using it and am in the process of labeling where all the wires go in an excel sheet. I want to share this with all of you but am trying to collect as much info as I can before posting it up. I still have many questions.
 
On the yellow 2 pulse sender are the 2 wires. One goes to ground and the other goes to VSS. Does the original VSS get unplugged when we remove the factory gauge panel, I'm thinking the obvious yes.

Question: What plug are we looking to tap into, and specifically which wire? Pictures would be awesome as I "think" 2 plugs go into the original VSS?

Question: Does the white wire coming off the 3-wire sender go to plug #2, wire #1 ORANGE ??

Question: Are any of you guys planning to use the Casper's Dash Mate Plug? I will be using it and am in the process of labeling where all the wires go in an excel sheet. I want to share this with all of you but am trying to collect as much info as I can before posting it up. I still have many questions.

I have my 2 wire VSS hooked up a little differently. The stock VSS is located inside the speedo. The wires go from the back of the speedo to the VSS buffer which is located near the left edge of the climate control and well hidden. I've pulled it down in the picture. The wires that ran to the speedo are the black, red and green wires on one end of the VSS. Simply cut those wires and tap into the black and green wires going into the buffer. The red wire isn't used.

3 wire yes to the orange on #2.

Think of the 2 VSS's as never talking to each other. The 2 wire talks to the ECM and cruise control. The 3 wire only talks to the new speedo.
 

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On the yellow 2 pulse sender are the 2 wires. One goes to ground and the other goes to VSS. Does the original VSS get unplugged when we remove the factory gauge panel, I'm thinking the obvious yes.

Question: What plug are we looking to tap into, and specifically which wire? Pictures would be awesome as I "think" 2 plugs go into the original VSS?

Question: Does the white wire coming off the 3-wire sender go to plug #2, wire #1 ORANGE ??

Question: Are any of you guys planning to use the Casper's Dash Mate Plug? I will be using it and am in the process of labeling where all the wires go in an excel sheet. I want to share this with all of you but am trying to collect as much info as I can before posting it up. I still have many questions.

Yes, I am going to used the dash mate from Casper. I have not gotten anything yet. Still waiting for my dash.
 
About the only thing I have a legitimate gripe about, is that Steve wasn't allowed to get a prototype and write the instruction manual for the rest of us.

I really hope Steve will be able to do a writeup of instructions when he gets the chance. Working in TX and the car is in AZ and don't know when I'll get home to install, but when I do, a nice set of instructions will be greatly appreciated.
 
Yes, I am going to used the dash mate from Casper. I have not gotten anything yet. Still waiting for my dash.
I'm using The dash mate as well. Just ordered it this morning. Having done the AVC 20 years ago and then adapting it to some WOM GNX clone stuff it's not that hard to install. Mostly just making sure all the wires are in the right place. Using the dash mate will allow me to do 95% of the soldering at the kitchen table and then plugging it in.

I'll be posting pictures as well but right now Ive got the entire dash out. I've installed accessories over the years and just want to clean up all the wiring and make schematics.:eek:
 

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I'm using The dash mate as well. Just ordered it this morning. Having done the AVC 20 years ago and then adapting it to some WOM GNX clone stuff it's not that hard to install. Mostly just making sure all the wires are in the right place. Using the dash mate will allow me to do 95% of the soldering at the kitchen table and then plugging it in.

I'll be posting pictures as well but right now Ive got the entire dash out. I've installed accessories over the years and just want to clean up all the wiring and make schematics.:eek:

My word, you have got balls. If I did what you have done, being that I have sometimers, I would have to junk the car. I would never get it back together.
 
Wow that scared me. I'm not sure I'm ready to try this install. :eek: I'm waiting for more detailed instructions before I attempt anything. Lol

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Got home today from work and the menu buttons were sitting in the mailbox.:)

I can confirm that when you set a low or high warning that the gauge pointer flashes it's respective color to get your attention. It will also activate a warning light if a light is associated with the gauge, i.e. the little battery for the volt meter.
 
I really hope Steve will be able to do a writeup of instructions when he gets the chance. Working in TX and the car is in AZ and don't know when I'll get home to install, but when I do, a nice set of instructions will be greatly appreciated.

Where are you working at? I live near the Fort Hood area and would be glad to bring my car by for you to have a look.

That goes for anybody else in the central Texas area and would be glad to help with installation or anything else. You never know what you can learn from somebody and I don't claim to be an expert with these turbo Regals but I do try to help where I can and listen when I can't.

Hell, I've had my Buick for about a 18 months, it's been a steep learning curve and somedays I still feel like I'm at sea level.... Sometimes under water...
 
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