My new alky kit is in, and I have tested it, where to go from here?

["Turbo-T"]

Ok, well I finally finished up the install of my new alky kit.

The first thing I did after getting everything hooked up was turn on the key switch with no alky in the tank. I did this because I wanted to verify the low alky level light works, and it does.

After filling up the tank with some denatured alky I had in the garage I observed the red light go out. Then I hit the test button on the remote controller.

At first it was making this funny long beep like sound, but I am guessing that's what the pump is supposed to sound like? Because it took a few seconds before I had to undo the line to the up pipe and then finally some alky came out, so now that's ok.

Before I started adjusting boost I wanted to make sure the kit actually worked, so I took it out on a back country road.

So far, as I read and was told, the clear LED turns on red at 5 PSI, and at 10 PSI it turns green, so now I know that works.

But now I am not sure if this is due to me only running 14 PSI of boost (remember I hadn't yet adjusted anything) but I noticed on the top end it started feeling really doggy, Scanmaster was reading in the 800's with no KR.

And as soon as I turned off the kit (while still in the doggy mode) I regained power again. So now that's got me wondering if I was running a way rich condition on the top end? Is that why it would start feeling doggy after like i think 80 mph in full boost?

Before I do anything, is there anything I should check or change? I do have a Turbo Tweak chip 92 octane street chip, I think I adjusted it for a little more fuel at WOT than stock but I know I did not touch the timing on it.

Thanks!

 

[SGRIM]

Sounds like to much alky been sprayed!

 

["Turbo-T"]

I also forgot I had the controller set for 6.

 

[SGRIM]

I would turn it down at low boost till the car is level all the way through a pull... Then start adding boost and a little alky at the time. Do a search, there are step by step instructions by Razor in the alky forum. Start slow and work your way up!

 

[87NAT]

You need to get an alky TT chip. Eric pulls fuel out of the alky chips to compensate for the extra meth you are adding. He also adjusts the default timing accordingly.

You can use the chip you have now but you will have to play with it to see where you are at. Start by taking away some fuel at WOT in all gears. Just a little at at a time. Put the alky knob on 5.5 to 6 for starters. Set your timing at about 23 in 1/2 gear and 21 in 3/4 gear. Turn your boost up to about 18 and then go slowly up in boost making adjustments as you go higher in regard to watching for knock and low o2s. If you have a wideband shoot for mid to low 10's then work your way up.

Your car feeling "doggish" is to much fuel...meth being sprayed. If your car was running great before the alky at "x" amount of boost you just made it super rich by not making any other changes other than spraying alky.

Julio is at the BG NAts but I am sure he will be chiming in to give you some more tips....

 

["Turbo-T"]

Turn your boost up to about 18.

Thanks I will try this, how many times should I have to spin the end of the rod to go from 14 to 18?

 

[Junior Samples]

1 full turn equals 1# but do a couple of turns and see where your at, pull your chip and doublecheck your timing written on it the go into your chip and start playing with timing to numbers posted above and pull fuel in small increments, you should be shooting for 20 psi or better with the alk.

write the adjustments down for ref incase you reset ecm. If you purchase the chip within a years time then you got one free upgrade comming and TT will set it to within alk spec.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Thanx, I don't believe Eric wrote down any timing numbers on my chip, he just put on there it was for 16-17 PSI with 92 octane.


Also I'm pretty sure the actuator needs to be turned inwards to increase boost...correct?

Thanks!

 

[SGRIM]

Yes!

 

["Turbo-T"]

Thanx, I don't believe Eric wrote down any timing numbers on my chip, he just put on there it was for 16-17 PSI with 92 octane.

Actually I take that back. I just looked at the chip, it reads 20 degrees/18 degrees.

Chip sticker reads as follows:

TT 5.6 3062
36# Street 92
20/18 degrees 15-17 PSI.

I already am aware of the injector i am running and octane requirements.

 

["Turbo-T"]

You can use the chip you have now but you will have to play with it to see where you are at. Start by taking away some fuel at WOT in all gears. Just a little at at a time. Put the alky knob on 5.5 to 6 for starters. Set your timing at about 23 in 1/2 gear and 21 in 3/4 gear. Turn your boost up to about 18 and then go slowly up in boost making adjustments as you go higher in regard to watching for knock and low o2s.

Hey...

Not sure if this is of any help but the default is 128....mine was at 135, and that was for WOT fuel on all 4 gears, which on the Scanmaster is the first setting....

I reduced it down to 123, so not sure if that was any good or not but it's a little less than the default.

Then I adjusted the waste gate actuator by turning in 4 complete turns. Before I was only pushing 14 PSI.

In Erics book he mentioned if you dont have a VSS don't use adjustments 2 and 4, so I'm not sure if I have a VSS but I believe adjustment 4 is for gears 3-4....???

 

["Turbo-T"]

Well here's an update. I took the car out for a spin.

First off what I thought would increase my PSI to 18 only came out to be 16, that's with 4 complete 360 degree turns of the actuator.

Looking at my Scanmaster, my 02 millivolts were in the 700-800 range, but I have found whenever I get hard on the throttle I get some KR on the Scanmaster, usually 1.7 to 2.1, this happens if I punch it from a dead stop or while moving.

On the remote controller I had it set at 6 when this happened.

I did not adjust the timing yet (it's still at 20/18) but if I'm getting some KR would it be wise to add timing?

 

[Razor]

Instructions say do your testing in 2nd or 3rd gear. And look at O2 levels. They should be 780-800 at the top of third gear.

Your O2 is suppossed to be a GM AFS20 not a Bosch. Just making sure. Your BL's at idle and cruising should be in the 124-134 range. If the car is rich, drop fuel in the chip. A street chip with an alky kit will support 23-25 PSI boost fuel wise. So at 16 PSI.. its going to be a DOG. If it runs 16 PSI in 3rd gear820-840's for O2's and no knock.. crank the boost up... bottom out the rod on the WG.. that typically should get you ~20 PSI.

Your car will more than likely knock in lower gears on the street. If you spin tires.. get in and out of the pedal.. etc.

 

[QUIP'6']

Instructions say do your testing in 2nd or 3rd gear. And look at O2 levels. They should be 780-800 at the top of third gear.

Your O2 is suppossed to be a GM AFS20 not a Bosch. Just making sure. Your BL's at idle and cruising should be in the 124-134 range. If the car is rich, drop fuel in the chip. A street chip with an alky kit will support 23-25 PSI boost fuel wise. So at 16 PSI.. its going to be a DOG. If it runs 16 PSI in 3rd gear820-840's for O2's and no knock.. crank the boost up... bottom out the rod on the WG.. that typically should get you ~20 PSI.

Your car will more than likely knock in lower gears on the street. If you spin tires.. get in and out of the pedal.. etc.

sorry 3.8 for hijacking but julio it was nice finally meeting you in person at the nats. you are an upstanding gentleman with a great product and customer service. keep up the great work!!!

 

["Turbo-T"]

Instructions say do your testing in 2nd or 3rd gear. And look at O2 levels. They should be 780-800 at the top of third gear.

Your O2 is suppossed to be a GM AFS20 not a Bosch. Just making sure. Your BL's at idle and cruising should be in the 124-134 range. If the car is rich, drop fuel in the chip. A street chip with an alky kit will support 23-25 PSI boost fuel wise. So at 16 PSI.. its going to be a DOG. If it runs 16 PSI in 3rd gear820-840's for O2's and no knock.. crank the boost up... bottom out the rod on the WG.. that typically should get you ~20 PSI.

Your car will more than likely knock in lower gears on the street. If you spin tires.. get in and out of the pedal.. etc.

Thanks Julio.

I took your advice and bottomed out my waste gate actuator end. However the hole and the dowel on the waste gate puck would not line up to go together, so I had to turn it back five times.

But when I took it for the 2nd test run I was able to get the PSI to 19 and almost to 20 if I really pushed on it. It does run a lot better than it did before, but it's still a little mushy on the very top end, so I guess I still need to take out some more fuel.

I also left the car in 3rd gear (no overdrive).

My Scanmaster showed 700-800's on the O2 side in the top of 3rd, but the KR is still there.

The KR seems to pop up just after I press the pedal, and then goes away after a few seconds. KR ranges from .05 to 3.0.

I also looked at my O2 sensor, I cannot tell if it's the AC one you mentioned but it does have the AC logo stamped into it, so I am guessing it is not a Bosch.

 

[Razor]

700-800 is a huge range. Not good. We're talking 780-800. A range of 20 not 100.

The AC delco O2 has a purple wire on it. If the O2 has a black wire.. chunk it and get the correct one. If the O2 hasnt been replaced in a long time.. chunk it. Bad enough we dont have a wide band.. a used and old O2 is bad news.

And the O2 sets up your fuel tables.. so if the O2 is junk, it sets up junk fuel tables.. and you will see junk results like knock
HTH

 

["Turbo-T"]

Well it's too dark out now to do another trial run as we have lots and lots of deer out here, so I don't want to take the chance of hitting one.

But tomorrow I will do a 2nd trial run and give you more precise numbers, not 100% sure if the 700 I saw was 780 or 750 as I was trying to pay attention to the road while vieweing the Scanmaster out the corner of my eye. I just know it wasn't 600 or 500 or anything like that.

As far as the 02 sensor, yes it has the purple wire. It looks fairly new and has the AC logo stamped into it.

Tomorrow I will do another trial run with a pencil and a pad of paper to jot down the numbers and report back.

 

[Razor]

Well it's too dark out now to do another trial run as we have lots and lots of deer out here, so I don't want to take the chance of hitting one.

But tomorrow I will do a 2nd trial run and give you more precise numbers, not 100% sure if the 700 I saw was 780 or 750 as I was trying to pay attention to the road while vieweing the Scanmaster out the corner of my eye. I just know it wasn't 600 or 500 or anything like that.

As far as the 02 sensor, yes it has the purple wire. It looks fairly new and has the AC logo stamped into it.

Tomorrow I will do another trial run with a pencil and a pad of paper to jot down the numbers and report back.

Be safe. All the cars I test I put them in 2nd gear.. get the rpms up to 3200... then mash the gas and keep my foot into it until it hits 5000 RPM's.. that will be like a 45 to 80 MPH run. O2's should start 800-820 and taper down into the upper 700 like 790-800. Nothing lower than 780.. if it gets lower.. pull your foot out. If the knock comes up 1,3,5,7 escalating.. pull your foot out.

Leave the knob on 6. It will give you plenty of alky.

HTH

 

["Turbo-T"]

On the second run....

I tried it in D2 like you said, and started at 45 mph and punched it and held until 80.....the 02's were in the 800-820 range, I don't think I saw it dip below 780 when my foot was really in it.

I also noticed if I slowly build up the boost in D2 the KR doesn't appear.

However I was able to go only so fast in D2 then the car felt like it does when it loads up on alky and fuel (probably what it was doing) so I had to shift to D3.

I also tried it in 3rd, going down the road at 55 mph, I got on it and did notice the KR kick in at like 1.2 and the o2's were 796.

Knob on the remote is still set at 6.

BLM's range from 123 to 127. It was mostly at 127 in park in the driveway but it did drop down to 123 for a little bit then went back up to 127.

 

[Razor]

1 degree that comes and goes is nothing. That can be anything.. more than likely false knock.

If you want to make sure its real or false.. put 110 octane gas in the tank and see if the knock is still there. If it is.. then you know its false.

And to me I target 800 and looks like your close. Now turn the boost up