My new alky kit is in, and I have tested it, where to go from here?

[Junior Samples]

Yeah turn that boooost up!
keep tweaking, fuel, timing, boost and juice....just say those four words over and over as your kicking it down on a lonely stretch of open road

 

["Turbo-T"]

Do you think I should pull a little more fuel out at WOT? She's still a little doggy, not as bad but it's like if I hold it in gear too long it starts poochin out big time until the next gear kicks in.

I don't think my waste gate actuator will adjust for any more boost. Should I install an RJC boost controller?

Also what causes false knock? How can I fix it?

 

[QUIP'6']

Do you think I should pull a little more fuel out at WOT? She's still a little doggy, not as bad but it's like if I hold it in gear too long it starts poochin out big time until the next gear kicks in.

I don't think my waste gate actuator will adjust for any more boost. Should I install an RJC boost controller?

Also what causes false knock? How can I fix it?

dont start pulling fuel till you get to where you want with boost. pulling fuel is when you want to start tweaking for mph. now turn it up!!!!!:biggrin:

 

[Junior Samples]

your gonna have to play with the chip since its not burnt for alky, So figure if you send it back to Eric for upgrade, you'll be down for 8 days or so or ask him what he would recomend for timing and fuel across the gears percentage wise via chip.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Yeah that is one thing I have wondered, is if I should put in an alky chip....if it will perform any better.

I'm wondering if some of the KR I was getting was transitional knock.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Yeah turn that boooost up!

Now turn the boost up

now turn it up!!!!!:biggrin:

Well I didn't turn the boost up, but after swapping out my old restrictive exhaust to a new 3 inch single shot, a 3 inch down pipe and a 3 inch Dynomax Ultraflow, let's say boost automatically went up 6 PSI!

With the old set up I had the rod was maxed out and 19-20 PSI was about max.

Now I'm sitting at 26 PSI and could have probably gone further.

Probably time to turn the boost down. Hope you still don't recommend me turning it up. :wink:

Also I saw 5.6 KR at 816's on the Scanmaster. 3rd gear I think. I also found my BLM at 115-117 at cruise in OD.

Oh yeah, the Alky now kicks on at 7 PSI and the LED goes from red to green at 12 PSI. Should I mess with the settings in the box or is this ok?

 

[Razor]

Oh yeah, the Alky now kicks on at 7 PSI and the LED goes from red to green at 12 PSI. Should I mess with the settings in the box or is this ok?

Leave it alone.

If your going to play at 25+ PSI.. you may want to turnup the alky higher like 7-8. Some cars are fine at 5.. some at 6.. but start more alky than needed and work on bringing that down while tuning.

Also look at the scanmaster at wide open throttle(WOT).. you need to see if the knock starts increasing.. like 1,3,5,7... etc.. if it does.. its real. If it pops up 6 then goes away.. its false. If you use the recall feature.. it says highest knock.. but that doesnt mean it was real or false.

If your in doubt whether its real or false.. drop the boost till you have that figured out.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Thanx Julio. I don't intend to play at 25 PSI, though I'd like to it's my understanding that on a stock build it's pushing the envelope. I didn't build the engine so I don't know what's in it, so i figure keep it at 23 for now.

Also it's my understanding that if the knock is real, it will not go away as long as my foot is in it. Reguardless of where the pedal is....1/2 throttle, 3/4 throttle....if it's real knock it will stay there. At least so i understand.

I'll investigate and report back.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Your car feeling "doggish" is to much fuel...meth being sprayed.

Just wondering, but I found out today in either 2nd or 3rd gear that once the engine hits 4700 rpm it lays down and dies, similar to when I first put on the Alky kit. The cam I have is a GN110T from Postons that is supposed to be good up to like 6000.

I didn't build the engine but it's not sputtering and popping like if it had valve float. I'm wondering if I should pull some fuel out of WOT?

They should be 780-800 at the top of third gear.

Your O2 is suppossed to be a GM AFS20 not a Bosch. Just making sure. Your BL's at idle and cruising should be in the 124-134 range. If the car is rich, drop fuel in the chip. A street chip with an alky kit will support 23-25 PSI boost fuel wise. So at 16 PSI.. its going to be a DOG. If it runs 16 PSI in 3rd gear820-840's for O2's and no knock.. crank the boost up... bottom out the rod on the WG.. that typically should get you ~20 PSI.

All the cars I test I put them in 2nd gear.. get the rpms up to 3200... then mash the gas and keep my foot into it until it hits 5000 RPM's.. that will be like a 45 to 80 MPH run. O2's should start 800-820 and taper down into the upper 700 like 790-800. Nothing lower than 780.. if it gets lower.. pull your foot out. If the knock comes up 1,3,5,7 escalating.. pull your foot out.

1 degree that comes and goes is nothing. That can be anything.. more than likely false knock.

If you want to make sure its real or false.. put 110 octane gas in the tank and see if the knock is still there. If it is.. then you know its false.

Also look at the scanmaster at wide open throttle(WOT).. you need to see if the knock starts increasing.. like 1,3,5,7... etc.. if it does.. its real. If it pops up 6 then goes away.. its false. If you use the recall feature.. it says highest knock.. but that doesnt mean it was real or false.

I've noticed sometimes when the KR shows up it's NOT at WOT. I have verified at WOT my 02 numbers are usually 800-820, but yes they do tend to taper off to like 780 in 3rd gear (I believe).

I made a video that shows what I typically see when I get into the boost. The Scanmaster is shown, the Alky is on. I apologize about the stability of trying to hold a camera while trying to drive. :redface:

Video:

YouTube - 87 Regal turbocharged inside going for a drive

 

[Razor]

Typically most Buicks I know off when you get into boost the O2's are way way higher like 830-850. Then taper down as time/speed increases.

Your run as soon as its getting into boost the O2 jumps one frame up to 812 then its all upper 700's.

I would be changing O2 sensor to an AC Delco AFS20, checking engine grounds, checking fuel pressure to make sure it tracks with boost, etc etc.

Also.. for Fathers Day.. get your self a "Power Logger" so you can start recording your engine

 

["Turbo-T"]

The 02 sensor I have I believe is an AC Delco one, it has an AC Delco logo stamped into it with a number 22 above that, and it has a purple wire, it looks new. Does this sound like the right one?

 

[VIN7]

Do you know if the valve springs were replaced when the new cam went in? If not, then that is probably what is causing the drive to fall over in the upper rpm range.

Mike

 

["Turbo-T"]

I do not know, as I didn't build the engine. And I don't really know who did.

 

[Razor]

Yeah but valvesprings wont make the knock sensor go off like that. The O2 sensor is the correct one, but whether its working properly or not is a different issue.

Somethings goofy for sure :redface:

 

["Turbo-T"]

I don't suppose there's a way of testing the 02 sensor?

I've tried running 110 octane while spraying meth and the car hasn't really acted any different than it has in the past.

That pass was on 92 with maybe 1/4 a tank of 110 still left.

I've even checked my MAF at WOT and it is 255.

 

[Razor]

I don't suppose there's a way of testing the 02 sensor?

I've tried running 110 octane while spraying meth and the car hasn't really acted any different than it has in the past.

That pass was on 92 with maybe 1/4 a tank of 110 still left.

I've even checked my MAF at WOT and it is 255.

Running race gas with an O2 sensor kills it.

So to answer your question.. yup.. you need a new O2.. and dont install it until all the leaded fuel is out of the tank.