Looking at pte turbos

[JT'sV6]

And cant decide on which to get. The goal is around 450rwhp with killer spool. I want to run bottom 7's in the 1/8th and trap 95mph or so on pump. Quick spool is important, but at the same time I want a good compromise of flow.

The turbo's I'm looking at are...

6031, 5857, or 6262.

Another opinion I want is which exhaust a/r housing and what cover should I get? Dont mind swaping the 3bolt for a t4 or t3 inlet for optimal spool. I'm a fabricator for a living and usually have all my welding gear in my work truck.

Will I have to, or should I switch to an external gate? what size would be recomended.

I may want to run run racefuel and crank the boost up to make 500+ so I dont want to be limited on my turbo selection.

The car is street driven mostlly and may see the track a few times a year. Any advuce is appreciated guys. Also who/where do I buy from?

 

[John Wilde]

Will you still be using your 3500rpm converter and N20?

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Ah, agree with above, if you keep the giggle juice and if that's a true 3500 0psi stall converter you can run just about anything you want.

Your goals are pretty easy to achieve, but us and PTE would probably want to know if you're going to continue use the N20 and what's the 0psi stall on that converter.

I'd say 62/65 just off of your signature in the 3 bolt .63, keep the Juice and with that converter it will be a fun track car running 10's for sure.

 

[RUQWKNF]

Judging from your signature, here's my thoughts. Two part question first.

What has been done to the bottom end of the motor and if anything, is it a stroker or standard crank?


Reason I ask this, is because it helps determine which turbine wheel would be better suited for the motor combo. (IE: to help keep back pressure down when you start turning up the boost) In other words, you wouldn't want to use a 62mm turbine wheel on a 250" stroker motor. Sure it would work at lower boost levels, but you would hit back pressure issues with the 3-bolt turbine housing a lot sooner. So, typically on a larger than 235" motor, we would spec the larger 65mm for the 6265, or depending on your goals, you could step up to the 6768. (67 HPQ)

However, if it's mainly a street car and the motor is a 231 - 235" setup, you would be very happy with a 6262 turbo. It would easily support your 450 rwhp goals. It would also be capable of pushing your combo into the mid 500 range in race mode. I would keep the 3-bolt factory setup, if your goals are under 600 rwhp as it has been proven to get the job done. All you would really need to do, would be to port and contour the wastegate hole to match your downpipes' puck size.

With regards to compressor cover options for the 6262 turbo, here's a couple of things to think about. The E compressor cover has factory standard sizes for the inlet and discharge. Meaning, it has a 3" inlet and a 2" discharge.

Representative photo of the E cover.

The E cover will work with a standard 3" MAF pipe or 3" hose, as well as a standard 2" discharge if you're running a stock intercooler, or have an adapter hose for your intercooler.


The SP cover features our ported shroud and has a larger 4" inlet and 2.5" discharge. I prefer street cars to have this style cover to take full advantage of the ported shroud. This is an Anti Surge feature that we've incorporated into the compressor cover, which helps keep the turbo from surging under partial or light load driving conditions. You would have to either run an adapter hose from 3" to 4" or a 4" MAF pipe, as well as change your intercooler hose. Some has also had to use an IAC angle boss to turn the IAC valve away from the MAF pipe and hose.

6262 SP cover

There's no price difference between the covers, as you get your choice.

So, just to recap, I personally would recommend the 6262 if the motor is a non-stroker, 231 - 235" motor and will mainly be a street car. If the converter is in fact, that loose, you could get away with the journal bearing version just fine. However, if you want the fastest spool up, from a dead stop idle punch and want the longevity that the hybrid ceramic dual ball bearing cartridge brings to the table, definitely get the ACBB version.

Hope some of this helps.

Patrick

 

[JT'sV6]

Bottom end is stock, reason for having the nitrous in the first place was because the stock turbo got so hot, so hopefully with a bigger and more efficent turbo I will not have to use the n20, I really want to get away from the refills.

Dont know what to tell you about the converter though. It's speced for 3400-3600. I can foot brake it to 2500rpm off the liine and after it goes wot it will flash to 4200rpm or so.

Will probablly go with a 3" custom fmic as well and maybe even hook up meth injection kit back up.

Called rsp (an ebay dealer) today and we figured out the 6262 would be my best option as well. Says I should go with a t4 .68 housing with e cover. But after reading patricks post this has me second guessig the (supra guy) tech from rsp. Aslo says I have to go with an external 44mm wg because the buick housing I cant use my internal wg...Is this true??

Looks like 6262 will be my next turbo and will probablly get the cover with anti surge comp housing.

Before I pull the trigger, I want to hear more opinions and thoughts on the exhaust housing. How much quicker will .63 3bolt spool vs .68 t4??

 

[John Wilde]

Just curious, since we have multiple supporting vendors that sell Precision Turbos including the manufacture, why are you using an EBay vendor?

You can make this turbo work with a stock type wastegate.
The turbine housing will need to be ported and you should consider
buying a bigger flapper valve from RJC (also a supporting vendor).

 

[JT'sV6]

Just curious, since we have multiple supporting vendors that sell Precision Turbos including the manufacture, why are you using an EBay vendor?

You can make this turbo work with a stock type wastegate.
The turbine housing will need to be ported and you should consider
buying a bigger flapper valve from RJC (also a supporting vendor).

I asked in my 1st post where/who should I buy from. Would pefer to buy from a forum vendor if they can match the price was quoted.

What do you mean by flapper valve? Wastegate puck? And why should I port the turbine housing? Or what is the reason I should do this?

 

[John Wilde]

I asked in my 1st post where/who should I buy from. Would pefer to buy from a forum vendor if they can match the price was quoted.

What do you mean by flapper valve? Wastegate puck? And why should I port the turbine housing? Or what is the reason I should do this?

The wastegate puck and flapper valve are the same thing, just different names.
The newer Precision Turbo Turbine wheels flow so well that the 62mm and bigger turbines have needed their wastegate hole opened up. If you don't the turbos will over boost.

 

[bison]

You're going to need a converter. 5857 or 6262 or any of the older turbos with a p trim ex will easily get it done.

 

[JT'sV6]

You're going to need a converter. 5857 or 6262 or any of the older turbos with a p trim ex will easily get it done.

A different stall converter? Why do you say that? My stall now is rated at 3400-3600.

 

[bison]

Dont know what to tell you about the converter though. It's speced for 3400-3600. I can foot brake it to 2500rpm off the liine and after it goes wot it will flash to 4200rpm or so.

This is why you need a converter. You dont have a 3500 stall. You probably have a 2400 stall.

 

[JOHNDEEREGN]

I asked in my 1st post where/who should I buy from. Would pefer to buy from a forum vendor if they can match the price was quoted.

What do you mean by flapper valve? Wastegate puck? And why should I port the turbine housing? Or what is the reason I should do this?

JMO... Price isnt everything, I would rather pay a "similar" price with a heck of a lot of good service to back it up, from a Vendor.

The cheapest up front doesnt always equate to the cheapest in the long run.

 

[JT'sV6]

That sucks. Why would such a small stall flash to over 4200rpm though? Maybe theres other issues to why I cant stall to where it should be. It has 373 rear end gears and street tires.

I did start another thread a while back about this converter.

 

[bison]

That sucks. Why would such a small stall flash to over 4200rpm though? Maybe theres other issues to why I cant stall to where it should be. It has 373 rear end gears and street tires.

I did start another thread a while back about this converter.

Mine flashes to 5100. Thats where mine needs to flash. A stock converter will flash to 4200 if you throw enough at it. Ive never seen where 3.73 gears help a car that has a hyd cam. Usually going to a lower numerical gear helps if the converter and launch boost is right.

 

[Mr.Spool]

that t4 housing and a tight stall will be terrible,and the torque from the gear won't be enough to balance the combo.the .63 3 bolt will spool much faster.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Whoa it's going to 2400rpm on the footbrake at 0psi? Doesn't sound like what we call a 3500 stall.

Ditching the N20 changes the game, even a 58/57 fit your initial goals for the car but a 62/62 might work out if we can nail down that converters 0psi rpm.

It's clear your Ebay vendor is not very familiar with our platform, with your goals you don't need to convert to a 4 bolt housing, then buy an external wastegate and a custom downpipe. You can literally call your nearest GN vendor, make a relationship with them and they'll guide you along the way and save you $$. The FI GN's have been around for over 25 years now, every Chef has a tasty recipe for speed. :biggrin:

 

[Mike Licht]

If you buy that 4 bolt turbo from ebay you will also need and external wastegate, new headers or a 3 to 4 bolt adaptor, custom made downpipe, custom oil line and boost controller. You can buy the correct turbo from myself or another vendor here that actually knows something about your car wand what you are trying to do that will just bolt on and give beter performance which in the long run will be much less expensive with a better result. Most of the vendors here are easy to get along with. I understand price is a concern, it is for all of us, that is why we offer a 115% price protection the details are on our web site. Keeping this site alive where you come to get your info depends on vendors to stay in business please give us a chance to do that. If not me some other sponsor of this site.

 

[John Wilde]

If you buy that 4 bolt turbo from ebay you will also need and external wastegate, new headers or a 3 to 4 bolt adaptor, custom made downpipe, custom oil line and boost controller. You can buy the correct turbo from myself or another vendor here that actually knows something about your car wand what you are trying to do that will just bolt on and give beter performance which in the long run will be much less expensive with a better result. Most of the vendors here are easy to get along with. I understand price is a concern, it is for all of us, that is why we offer a 115% price protection the details are on our web site. Keeping this site alive where you come to get your info depends on vendors to stay in business please give us a chance to do that. If not me some other sponsor of this site.

Great Post Mike!

 

[JT'sV6]

Just to uppdate...Contacted jack cotton this morning while on a break at work about the pte turbo's. I have to pull the trans this weekend to try and find a part # on this converter since it was in the car when I bought it.

He defanitlly thinks something is funny is going on with my car or the combo is wrong, and I have to agree with that. Pretty sure he can help me get my car straightened out in preperation for the new turbo.

Also will probablly be going with the 6265.

 

[JT'sV6]

Ordered the 6262 with .63 a/r buick housing.

Quick question...Will I have to change the oil lines? What style oil lines are these anyways? t04b ??