look what happens when you dont listen to Bruce

[RAPIDOV6]

my aftermarket pump rotor is in pieces
it was a ten vane and Bruce told me not to use a after market but of course i dont listen

I now got the 7 vane rotor back in but my line pressures are low

Here are the readings at 1500 RPM

MIN MAX
P 90 - 250
R 165 - 230
N 90 - 250
D 90 - 195
3 90 - 190
2 180 - 190
1 170 - 170

You guys think I need a new pump?

Here is a pic of the rotor:

 

[GNeric]

If the rotor is in that many pieces, I guarantee you there are little pieces that scarred up the aluminum. At the last place I used to work, the boss would come over and inspect the pump if something like that happened and say something like "it looks ok, knock the hi spots down with sandpaper and go ahead and reuse it". Just to save a buck or two and when the line pressure was low and the unit burned up, he would act like it was my fault. It got to the point of me refusing to reassemble the units if we did not replace/machine the pump surfaces flat and perpendicular to stator centerline.

 

[RAPIDOV6]

Pump

your right there was scratches all over I just sanded it down a little bit
so you think i need a new pump
Thanks

 

[JDSfastGN]

With scratches i would assume it would be a good idea to get a new pump, but the numbers do not look bad to me. What were the numbers before? The low/reverse seem a tiny bit lower than what they should, but anything over 180 should be good enough to hold clutches and the band without a problem. Too much pressure has caused problems for me in the past.

 

[GNeric]

Surfaces need to be flat and the pump pocket needs to have about .001"-.0015" rotor clearance. No more than .002". When the rotor parts catch and dig in, the aluminum can get compressed and raise up next to where the gouge is and it all needs to be flat so when it heats up nothing binds. The vanes have to be perfectly square or they will dig in also since they are what actually moves the fluid. I would either send it to Bruce as a core and get a new pump or if you have someone locally who can follow Bruce's suggestions and machine yours for you and use GM rotor and vane kits.

 

[RAPIDOV6]

With scratches i would assume it would be a good idea to get a new pump, but the numbers do not look bad to me. What were the numbers before? The low/reverse seem a tiny bit lower than what they should, but anything over 180 should be good enough to hold clutches and the band without a problem. Too much pressure has caused problems for me in the past.

To tell you i dont remember the old numbers
But they used to be alot higher

 

[RAPIDOV6]

Surfaces need to be flat and the pump pocket needs to have about .001"-.0015" rotor clearance. No more than .002". When the rotor parts catch and dig in, the aluminum can get compressed and raise up next to where the gouge is and it all needs to be flat so when it heats up nothing binds. The vanes have to be perfectly square or they will dig in also since they are what actually moves the fluid. I would either send it to Bruce as a core and get a new pump or if you have someone locally who can follow Bruce's suggestions and machine yours for you and use GM rotor and vane kits.

I will probably give a call to bruce to order a new pump.
Just in case :biggrin:
thanks

 

[WE4]

I would also be inclined..

To take a damn good hard look at the converter neck. Bet it is cracked or damaged also. Give me a shout when you can.

Bruce
WE4
www.PTSXTREME.com