Lets talk oil

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About to change my oil here snapped a shot so you see what goes in my engine,
 
I posted this a while back. O'reilly's marked down their Valvoline Synthetic Racing Oil from $9.99 to $4.99. My local store still has some in 10W-30. It is the blue oil in the black container. Not the VR-1 in the grey container. If your local store doesn't have it they (or you) can call other stores and they will ship it to your local store.
 
I run royal purple hps 10 40 and a bottle of edelbrock zinc additive been running that for the last 2 years and before that I ran just royal purple 1040 with the additive for 6 years with no probs at all motor never been opened has 150,000 Kms sorry don't know what that is in miles lol
 
Same here, Valvoline VR1 10w-30. No zinc additive since I have a full roller valve train.
 
Brad Penn Semi Synthetic with 1/2 bottle of ZDD Plus with each oil change. 10W-30 for spring & fall seasons & 10W-40 for summer time use. :)
 
David A said:
.........Searching the forums there seems to be some debate on the type (synthetic vs. non) of oil you should run. The only thing that seems consistent is people adding ZDDP to their oil of choice. I'm curious as to what weight people are running and if one brand as shown better results over another with these engines. Are these engines prone to sheering oil?...............................
Click to expand...

Again we have the "what oil is best" thread and every time it is the same old answers, "this is what I use and it is the best", and pages of posts with no substance of what is real and valid information, and somewhat lacking in common sense?

Just because the average GN owners want the "best" for his baby, the more expensive is not necessarily the best in most cases.

The last thing I want to see or hear is "info and data" quoted from the manufacturer, or from the advertising department, and their product is automatically the "best", but best for what?

They have no clue that our engines are based upon a 50 year old design, and it is a performance application with forced induction.

Forced induction, or turbo engines, will put much more contaminates into the crankcase, and hence into the oil, than your almost new daily driver, and the operating envelope is much different.

The point here is any oil will be contaminated and needs changed before the additives are used up. A race car will need a change about every 20 passes, and a modified GN on the street should have the oil changed between 1000 and 2000 miles depending on how hard it is driven.

One comment that messes with my head is using Diesel oil in a high performance engine? :confused:

My Dodge diesel never has been over 3000 RPM, and usually is pulling well below that number. Traditionally diesel oil is formulated with less anti-foaming additives, and much more detergent to clean the cylinder walls, just what you do not want in a performance build.

The answer I get from guys using synthetic oils is that it will last longer. Really, are you going to leave contaminated oil in your engine for 15,000 miles, or even 7000 like some claim? Hell no you won't. So spend your $$$ on more often oil changes, because it will NOT protect your engine any better than regular oil regardless of the brand.

Over the years we have built, installed and shipped over 600 turbo Buick engines, and we inform the customer if synthetic oil is used, there will be no warranty whether it is a flat tappet or roller cam.

One property we have found with regular vs. synthetic oil is that the synthetic oil does not adhere to friction surfaces, or any internal surfaces, like regular oil. Synthetic oil will drain off cylinder wall and bearing surfaces in a day or 2, regular oil never will.

I know there are many different opinions on oil choices, like other items, but basing your choice on experience, operating use and factual information rather than emotion or advertising, would serve your purpose better. :)
 
^^^^^ Nick I did not want to quote that and I do agree with the synthetic oil data/opinion .However what oil do you use in the average Buick(lets say mid 11 sec car) in the beautiful weather of Arizona?
 
Personally I use VR-1 20W-50 in my cars, and most of the locals do the same as they almost are never driven in freezing weather.

I add one bottle of ZDDP Plus to my race car with 8 quarts of oil, but only use 1/2 a bottle in street cars. :)
 
I use Mobil 1 because my turbo manuf. recommends synthetic due to its higher comubustion temps.

Last thing I want to do is take advice from someone on oil whos never driven one of these things over 2ooK miles with no oil related isssues. :p

See how stupid some advice sounds. ;)

Buick built motors though, so I've got that going for me. :D

In the GN with a journal bearing I use Valvoline or Mobil 1 with a quart of 70 weight Amalie. :eek:

That's only made it 160K miles however. o_O
 
First owner of my car only used Mobile 1. I bought it 5 years ago and changed to Royal Purple with 1/2 bottle ZDDP. Current mileage is 26,500. Yes the car sits a lot. If the oil was going to drain off I'm sure it has done so numerous times. No motor issues....ever.
 
i agree with Nick .
I stopped using rotella when i noticed the air bubbles suspended in the oil when i would check the dipstick.....i later read something about it having less anti-foaming additives since its used in low rpm diesel engines.
ive been told by many engine builders NOT to use synthetic oil in a high performance buick v6.....maybe its ok in a low mile, stockish, low load situation.

I'm no oil expert, but from what ive been told by people who do know what they are talking about, i only ran two types oil ....VR1 offroad and brad penn.
 
Mine isnt a street car of course since its offroad only but I only run VR1.
I use 4 quarts of 20-50 and 2.5 quarts for pure 60 with a large K&N oil filter. The sandrail is pushed hard and never gets a break. I change it after every dunes trip which is anywhere between 5-25 hours depending if its a long weekend or not.

Oil is always broken down and nasty when I get home. You have to think also that my engine hardly ever is under 4k rpm's and 10-14 psi.

Very hard on it as it doesnt have to get me home. Is there something better maybe,I like the way I have been doing it for so many years so i stay with it.
 
Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oils are specially made for older cars with flat tappet cams.
 
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