L67 F-bird

Got a set of slicks and the car hooks now. Ran 2 1.93 60ft's back to back. Best time was 14.40 at 96MPH with a 2.0 60ft. 9.16 @75 in the 1/8th.

Now that it hooks its time for more power!
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nice progress from your last outing , lower 60 foots ,lower et's and higher traps.

any idea what the DA was ? I am also starting to think that turning a transmission ,driveshaft , and rear end eats up more power than a transaxle does because a 3.4 pulley without kr in a w body should trap 98-100 in fair air and 103/104 in great air (negative da's)

as you make more power the RWD should start to payoff - you shouldnt have the traction issues that a fwd car suffers at higher power levels.

I have a set of zzp 1.9 ratio modified stock rockers with pedestals and re useable bolts listed on my local forum for $175 , those or a cam with some headers should get you in the 13's @100 + I would think
 
DA was 510ft. Corrects to a 14.35 so no difference. I have a 2 piece driveshaft so thats sucks power along with everything else.

My plan is to build a set of billit fuel rails to get rid of my ugly hacked up ones and put a set of headers on along with cleaning and regasketing the motor this christmas or thanksgiving. Next summer im going to stick an XP cam in, put 80lb injectors, and run corn. Maybe port the heads and do a bottom end freshening up since the motor has 180K miles on it has been upside down because I bought it out of a rollover and has a lot of WOT runs on it.

Goal is mid 12's year around daily driven, even in the snow!
 
12's year round is a wonderful goal. I'll keep watching to see when it happens!

Nice touch using old Turbo Buick rims for the slicks! :)
 
Yeah Im stoked that it grabs good now. I could have thrown more power at it this summer but I didnt want to waste the time or money since it spun so bad. I also didnt mention that it MAY have been running on 5 cylinders for times. Every pass it would give me a P300 engine misfire and couldn't find where it was but it came back every time half track. Never misfired before so I dont know if a plug is a little bad or a wire was loose. Checked the #1 plug since it said that that was the one misfiring so I checked the wire and it was a little loose so I put it back on but it felt fine from then on. Gotta pull the motor to check the plugs so it gives me an excuse to throw some gaskets in it (rear main is BAD) and put headers on it.

My car doesn't leak, it marks its territory!

The wheels are 15X8.5's AR vectors that I traded a guy for an aluminum 78-80 cutlass hood. They sat in the original boxes in my basement for 3 years and I finally found these tires locally affordable so I jumped on them. Im not even going to waste trying to run street tires at the track anymore. Do a little burnout and stomp on it and it hooks. Didn't screw with pressures or anything.
 
Thought Id update this. Threw in a new front seal and that solved the leaking issues. However, despite 4+ hours of diagnosing I was unable to get rid of the P300 misfire code. Swapped coils, plugs, ohm checked the plug wires, nothing. Looked at the logs and it turned out I had a lazy O2 sensor so I changed that. Continued throwing the code, so I just deleted the code off the ECM. Drove it for the past 4 months without issues.

I also noticed the oil pressure guage was really not sticking around 60PSI like it used to. Spends more time around 30. Hooked a mechanical guage and its got low oil pressure. 50 at cold cruise, 20-24 at hot cruise and 5 maybe at hot idle. Sent an oil sample in to get checked and the oil has elevated aluminum content. No copper though so the bearings are fine. Im not sure if I cracked the oilpump housing when I changed the front seal or if a 190K mile engine that is positivly beat on finally wore out or what. Im going to pull the motor out when Im off college for spring break and throw on headers, E85, port the heads, rering and bearing the block, put in my 3400 stall converter I picked up, and whatever else pops up.

Nevertheless, Im still daily driving it. It's absolutly frightening to drive in the cold since it makes so much more power and I have the old 16" tires on it for winter so it will spin if I stomp on it at like 35mph. If I throw a rod out I will just pick up another $300 shortblock. The more I think about it the more I just want to pull the timing cover off and look at the pump.

Ive got a set of studded snows for it that Im throwing on too. It was decent in the snow last year but it absolutly sucks this year.
 
4th gen, on ice! Studded snows with 2 tubes of sand in the trunk. Bottoms out on bumps but its not spin-city anymore. Washed it for the first time since late september too!
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I had the week off for spring break. First day it was above 25 this week (weather sucks this year, 3ft+ of snow and 2 days in March above 32) so I pulled the engine. Lost oil 20PSI of oil press in November and have just ran it. Sent the oil in for a test and there was high aluminum content so I didnt know what to think. There was little shreads of steel and some glitter in the oil filter.

Damn thing fell right out. Took 2 1/2 hours and it was out. Spent 1/2 hour trying to get the driveshaft out. Was rusted and stuck to the rear end U joint. Once that got knocked out everything else came out pretty good. Only broke 1 bolt and it was a manifold to crossover bolt and I just got headers ordered so no worries.

Got the trans off too. Pulling heads tomorrow to see if I killed a lifter or what caused steel shavings to get in the oil.

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Man, I hate to hear that! You have more patience than I! Hope evrything goes back well!
 
Sounds like a bearing is getting eaten. Tear the short block down and I'll bet one of the bearings is toast.:(
 
My bet was that the oil pump ate itself or one of the roller lifters locked up. It had a hell of a rattle/knock that sounded valvetrain at times but hasnt done it in a while. The ECM also said it was missing during partial throttle cruise so it might have chipped a piston witch than got ate up in the pump and got into the valvetrain. Im pulling it apart today though so I will find out!
 
So the mystery is solved to a point. Turns out the timing chain tensioner came apart and kinda caused some havok. Half of the tensioner was still there so the timing chain was tight but im sure it bounced around at higher rpms. The oil pump sucked parts of the tensioner through it and chewed up the front cover and pump pretty good. Bad news is the crank is out of round .013 on the front main but the rest of it looks great. Bearings really werent bad, they are wore for a 190K mile motor but not bad, they are pitted though. Must have ran more antifreeze through it than I thought at one point. There was white foam on the valvecovers and quite a bit in the pan. Im not sure if a head gastket was seeping or what but there has been antifreeze through the bearings for sure.

Good news is the valvetrain looks great and the cylinder bores have no wear at all. Rings and some cleaning on the pistons would make it brand new. Pretty clean too, guess thats what running alky gets ya. Was hoping that it killed a roller lifter since I planned on replacing the cam anyways. Not sure if im going to cheap out and re run the stock lifters on the new cam, run the stock cam, or buy lifters too. Wasnt planning on gettings a new crank and front cover so it kinda ruined the budget since ive still gotta buy injectors, fuel system parts, rering and bearing kit, cam, blah blah..... Just blew quite a bit for headers and new tires for the car too so it depends on how deep into the build I want to get.

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Pile of parts. Should have cleaned the work bench before I took the motor apart but ohh well...
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I have a short block in my garage that came in a package of stuff I bought a few years back , it has a chipped piston and the guy kept the cam but otherwise I should have a L67 crank and any rotating assembly items you need and maybe other valvetrain stuff in my bins I know I have several extra l67 piston /rod combos kicking around too.

I also have a running L36 car that has been waiting for a reason to pull the drivetrain out ( cant remember if you started with l67 or l36 lower end)

If you havent allready headed down a certain path and are looking for a budget friendly option let me know what parts you would like and I will shoot you a shipped price
 
Block is honed and new cam bearings are pushed in. Heads were cracked between the intake and exhaust seats on a few and the exhaust seats was pounded in a few spots. Decided to fix em. Machine shop is going to put new inserts in and open up the valve pocket a bit. Planning on doing a bit of porting yet.

My 60lb injectors showed up too and I got a LS1 intake setup with stainless 100MM lid. Gotta build my fuel rails next week, hope my heads will be done in a few weeks. Could have just threw them on but I really dont want to throw a $325 cam into a motor with leaking heads.

Got another crank thats useable and a timing cover that isnt shot too.

 
Got a good amount done. Lost the key for the cam so it prevented me from buttoning it up. Once I find one I can get the timing chain, cover, pan, accessories, harness, and fuel stuff on. Only real mods are the pacesetters, S1X blower cam, and Free Ls6 valvesprings. It is a lot cleaner though!

 
I'd be interested to see how you build those fuel rails. I need to build a set for my 3.8 as well...
 
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