L67 F-bird

13.2's in 80* heat it should crack 12's in good racing weather.
Your trap is really low for a low 13 pass you must be hooking excellent and getting good 60 foots... what is your 1/8 mile trap ? are you at least gaining 22/23mph in the top 1/2 ?
 
nice 60 foot ! I bet that top end trap will improve when you get some cooler weather and dial the fuel/timing in
 
Got me a 12 second V6 firebird, happy with that! Ran a 12.92 at 105.

Switched to E85 and bumped the timing up to 18 degrees. Got KR at 20 degrees.

Ran it again this weekend in 70 degree weather and a light tailwind. Track conditions were less than stellar. I cut one 1.85 60ft but otherwise was 1.90 to 2.00. Prep was minimal. Was getting 1.75 last time I ran. I tried rolling into it and it was no better.

I wanted to bump the boost up just a tad so I ordered a 2.6" pulley. Built a disk to hold a boring bar and turned the snout down.

Good news the 2.6 fits great and makes 14 PSI. Bad news is I forgot it at home so I ran the 2.8"






 
nice work ! this thread has got the goods from watching the build to 14's ,13's and now 12's
are you pulling the front sway bar at the track ? if not it should help you on days that are hard finding traction. cant wait to see good weather and good traction together along with the smaller pulley.
Next stop mid 12's....
 
I might be buying a low mileage 2001 Firebird. It's a 3800 of course. It has never been driven in the winter and rarely driven in the rain, always garaged. Interior and paint are in mint condition. I was originally going to buy it for my son, but my wife wants it after test driving it. I'm not sure I would do anything to it right away, but maybe in a few years I might. I know lots fabrication would need to be done for a turbo and if I decide to run more than 5psi of boost I would have to put forged rods and pistons. I would certainly take my time with it.
 
I might be buying a low mileage 2001 Firebird. It's a 3800 of course. It has never been driven in the winter and rarely driven in the rain, always garaged. Interior and paint are in mint condition. I was originally going to buy it for my son, but my wife wants it after test driving it. I'm not sure I would do anything to it right away, but maybe in a few years I might. I know lots fabrication would need to be done for a turbo and if I decide to run more than 5psi of boost I would have to put forged rods and pistons. I would certainly take my time with it.
Sounds like a good deal on the F-bird. Mind me asking the price?
 
Sounds like a good deal on the F-bird. Mind me asking the price?
His asking price is a bit high at $8300. He will have to be negotiable on that price, because I won't pay and most others won't. Since he posted it for sale, about a month ago, I'm the only person who has shown any interest.
 
That car is worth less than half that price.
Exactly, that's why I said he has to be negotiable on the price. Since I plan on financing a portion of it, the price definitely has to drop because my financial institution will only lend me $3500 for it, I just got a call from them. The said if I want to borrow more that I would have to have it appraised, which is $250 in itself. Ain't happening.

I would be willing to pay $6k for it, but that is it.
 
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Wow, At 6K, it's still way too high. This series of F-bodies are not a good platform for a performance vehicle. I'm learning that the hard way myself. The v6 is the strongest part of the build. When I purchased my 2K Camaro(J87Y (?) option) for $2k dollars, I expected it to be like my 70 1/2 Z-28. Which only required engine mod's to get down the road. I ran a 450hp 350c.i. sbc, w/an option for a 600hp 427 bbc. which needed heavier front springs. Still in the military, I let go of the 427 for the 350. too expensive for travelling. Now you can understand my disappointment w/this series of f-bodies, and no one on the f-body forums warned me of the inherent problems to modding them. I'm sure that MNcarbturbo can attest to the fact of the high cost of s/c'ing to get to the 12 sec. time slip. I think he's done a great job and I have invested about $1k to do the same, because I want to play w/the s/c idea. I have also invested a great deal more(5X) for turbo charging when I finish w/the s/c'g. None of this incudes the fuel system, frame stiffening, trans,(except the t/c'g- bought a 200-4R stg III) or the 8.8 for the rear-end.
This is not to discourage you from the purchase, just don't over-pay for a vehicle of this caliber. For one in as great a shape as is stated, I would only offer $4500.00 I hope this helps w/your decision.
 
Wow, At 6K, it's still way too high. This series of F-bodies are not a good platform for a performance vehicle. I'm learning that the hard way myself. The v6 is the strongest part of the build. When I purchased my 2K Camaro(J87Y (?) option) for $2k dollars, I expected it to be like my 70 1/2 Z-28. Which only required engine mod's to get down the road. I ran a 450hp 350c.i. sbc, w/an option for a 600hp 427 bbc. which needed heavier front springs. Still in the military, I let go of the 427 for the 350. too expensive for travelling. Now you can understand my disappointment w/this series of f-bodies, and no one on the f-body forums warned me of the inherent problems to modding them. I'm sure that MNcarbturbo can attest to the fact of the high cost of s/c'ing to get to the 12 sec. time slip. I think he's done a great job and I have invested about $1k to do the same, because I want to play w/the s/c idea. I have also invested a great deal more(5X) for turbo charging when I finish w/the s/c'g. None of this incudes the fuel system, frame stiffening, trans,(except the t/c'g- bought a 200-4R stg III) or the 8.8 for the rear-end.
This is not to discourage you from the purchase, just don't over-pay for a vehicle of this caliber. For one in as great a shape as is stated, I would only offer $4500.00 I hope this helps w/your decision.

Thanks, I have already passed on it. Guy wouldn't budge on the price and insists that it is worth every penny of it. Given your input, I'm not going to buy the car, any fbody, just because of the 3800 Series II. My credit union won't finance more than $3500 and that is for a low mileage car. I need to get my GN back together anyway and stop my obsession with the rwd 3800 series II. Appreciate your input.
 
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The car seems like its eroding away around me. Most recently the drivers window was very floppy and I had to roll it down a little bit to close the door. Found out one of the guides inside the door broke and a stop bolt backed out. Welded the sweep bracket back together and adjusted everything, also adjusted the door hinges. Gave me a little hope!

ABS is going nuts and randomly starts applying when I am slowing down on dry ground at like 10mph. Took the relay out so that is solved. Everytime something goes wrong I get to the point where I admit I am giving up on it and then I fix it and I realize it isn't that bad. Heck it got 26 mpg on a 1000 mile or so trip a month ago and the AC didnt leak out over the winter.

I finally swapped my winter tires for summer tires and got an alignment, drivers side camber is really negative and wearing unevenly. Found out there is no camber left in the slots so I am stuck at 2 or something negative.

And what does 1.75 60's do the the floor of a rusted car? Buckle the floorpans. Yep, the passenger side LCA bracket is so rusted out around the floor that it beginning to bend the floor.



And I have a nice remote sized hole in my drivers rear wheelwell.


I was going to put some strano springs in it and new front struts but I can't convice myself to put any money into that chassis.

But the engine is really chuggin along great!

I think the search for a new body begins this fall. Might bomb it through one last winter and call the chassis dead. Either a nice green or blue 98-02 Fbird, an H body, or maybe even an Opel GT?
 
OUCH! I feel your pain. My 48 ford had less rust than that and having to park in the street, it survived the harsh weather in NJ w/the salt /sand
mix. I really have to commend these f-body owners for their loyalty to these cars. At the very least, they understand what they have and are willing to work w/it. It was the body styling that I went for, and Bryan's(turbov6camaro) success w/his 99 that pushed me to invest in the car.
BTW, there was an opel gt for sale locally here that sold for $4200. It was in good shape. It was white and the owner used to bring it out when the weather was nice along w/the other old timers and their 1920's to 1980's cars.
Did you change your K-member out? (I'm too lazy to read back thru the thread!) I was thinking!?; What if I replaced the k-member and used a
1" spacer between the new k and the frame to allow more cowl clearance for a s/c intercooler along w/new style fuel rails? Would it be worth using the s/c until I can afford the mod's to finish the 4.1 swap. What do you think?​
 
Been a while since I updated it. I bought a 3500 converter for drag weekend and looked under the car and decided not to swap it. That was my hope to run 12.50. I put my engine harness right in the way of the top trans bolts so there was no taking the trans out without pulling the whole motor. Didnt want to drop out of race weekend so I left it on the shelf and packed up what I had.

Did a drag weekend this weekend. Think dragweek but 3 days 3 states 3 tracks on friday-sat-sun.

750 mile round trip, Iowa, wisconsin, illionois, iowa again. Raced at Great lakes in union grove Wis, byron in Illinois, and tristate in earlville IA. About 20 cars. Fastest car ran 8.30 at 160s. There was also 2 8.70's cars, couple 9 sec cars, all the way up to 12's/13's.

Started out at 12.92, basically picking up where I left off a year ago this time. Dropped the pulley from 2.8 to 2.6 and worked the timing down from 18 to 20. E85. I can't go any smaller on the blower pulley and it didnt pick up any mph from 19 to 20 degrees. There's nothing left in the tune or blower.

But, it resulted in a 12.63! Still got the 3500 stall on the shelf, but looking at my hpt logs it honestly looks like it is hitting that stock converter so hard it's actually stall is like 3400 (maybe???). So some front runners and that converter (maybe?) and figgure a way to ice my blower in between rounds and that 12.50 I shot for 5 years ago is doable I think

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Been a while since I updated it. I bought a 3500 converter for drag weekend and looked under the car and decided not to swap it. That was my hope to run 12.50. I put my engine harness right in the way of the top trans bolts so there was no taking the trans out without pulling the whole motor. Didnt want to drop out of race weekend so I left it on the shelf and packed up what I had.

Did a drag weekend this weekend. Think dragweek but 3 days 3 states 3 tracks on friday-sat-sun.

750 mile round trip, Iowa, wisconsin, illionois, iowa again. Raced at Great lakes in union grove Wis, byron in Illinois, and tristate in earlville IA. About 20 cars. Fastest car ran 8.30 at 160s. There was also 2 8.70's cars, couple 9 sec cars, all the way up to 12's/13's.

Started out at 12.92, basically picking up where I left off a year ago this time. Dropped the pulley from 2.8 to 2.6 and worked the timing down from 18 to 20. E85. I can't go any smaller on the blower pulley and it didnt pick up any mph from 19 to 20 degrees. There's nothing left in the tune or blower.

But, it resulted in a 12.63! Still got the 3500 stall on the shelf, but looking at my hpt logs it honestly looks like it is hitting that stock converter so hard it's actually stall is like 3400 (maybe???). So some front runners and that converter (maybe?) and figgure a way to ice my blower in between rounds and that 12.50 I shot for 5 years ago is doable I think

bird/CAM02126_zpstaznhlks.jpg.html]
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Are these cars all 3800 powered?


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