Jeffs TSO car updated pics!

Yeah but its not "factory stock appearing"

Definition of "Factory Stock Appearing"
A factory stock appearing part is a GM part originally delivered on a 1986 to 1987 Buick Regal, GNX, Grand National, T-Type or Turbo Regal from Buick Motor Division and is externally stock in appearance. No external welding, cold weld epoxy, puttying, etc. may be done on any factory stock appearing part unless specifically stated.

NO RACE FOR YOU!!

9. Interior: Stock appearing dashboard and passenger seat required, interior must be carpeted and as close to factory appearing as possible. Rear seat may be removed, but area shall be carpeted.
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column doesnt tilt either, I think that may be illegal per NHRA rules.
 
That car is going to need to fly just to get the dust blown off of it.;)

Reminds me of the time I took mine to the track on the first day for the new year.My wife feeds the birds and keeps corn in the shop.A mouse had put about a bushel in the frame and the first time I launched it left a trail of corn down the track.It has set so long now there could be anything roll out of it.
 
9. Interior: Stock appearing dashboard and passenger seat required, interior must be carpeted and as close to factory appearing as possible. Rear seat may be removed, but area shall be carpeted.
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column doesnt tilt either, I think that may be illegal per NHRA rules.

It was a joke.
 
Bill, have you ever thougt about fabbing a tublar K member? It would get rid of some weight more clearance for pan and exhaust. You could also move the control arm mount some to get more caster without getting the rest of the alighnment specs out of wack. That is with the stock control arms like we have use in TSM.
 
I looked at doing something like that. Cutting everything out between the rails and building a tubular section that would look a lot like a mustang k-member. I have seen guys cut out the section just between the mounts and it's not worth the effort...about 8# by the time you add tubing back in. I think a better option would be to cut the frame off in front of the control arm mounts and replace that entire section all the way to the bumper with a tubular section and is the reason I mounted my rack to the frame area between the mounts. All the frame does in front of the control arms is hold the bumper up and has 2 mounts for the core support that could easily be added to the tubing. Obviously this could not be done in these pics because of how the the rack was mounted. I do like how the rack was mounted though, very sturdy looking.
 
Bill, if you are going to offer a bolt in steering column kit like Jeffs, I would like to get on the list. Please shoot me some pics of the column before you mounted it, I would a closer look.

Thanks in advance.
 
Cutting everything out between the rails and building a tubular section that would look a lot like a mustang k-member.

This is what I'm talking about. It will allow me put the weight where it will be put to better use. You could use a larger pan without making it too deep. Besides how manny times have you dropped a bolt olny to have it roll into the hole on the crossmember?:mad: I would have to keep the stock framerails per TSM rules.
 
We just built a car and removed the piece of frame between the rails for clearance because of a dry sump. I welded in a piece of 1 3/4 round tubing. That piece of frame doesnt all that much, probably real close to being the same after you plate the frame. When I back halved my GN and it still had the stock frame in the front, I mounted the rack on the cross member,cut the frame horns off and ran 2 pieces of 1.5" crhomoly all the way out to the front bumper Probably only saved about 15# and it was A LOT of work.We are in BIG trouble on the weight as it stands now, Jeff's car is very very light we should'nt have a problem putting the weight where we need it. If we can only make some horsepower....
 
couple more pics, the back half is done, rear frame rails removed all the way to the inner and braced along with wheel tubs.
 

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Wow, I think I am loving that!
How much tire can you get under there?
It looks like you might be ready for Showdown at E Town next year in DR.
 
Damn,He gonna rn it on that 10 bolt,I got a killer 9" for sale!

Looks really nice Bill
 
I got a "killer 9" too" oh we are talking about rears...:biggrin:
Aint nothing wrong with a 10 bolt. Thanks Anyway.
 
I got a "killer 9" too" oh we are talking about rears...:biggrin:
Aint nothing wrong with a 10 bolt. Thanks Anyway.

Ya thats what Avon thought at BG last year as he had to rebuild it sat morn before eliminations;)
 
Damn,He gonna rn it on that 10 bolt,I got a killer 9" for sale!

Looks really nice Bill

Gonna run it for now, cant really justify the weight and hp losss by adding the 9" in it. There is about 80# difference even if you use the aluminum center section.
 
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