Is this the correct way to set up a distributor?

Well i am making progess, but still have no ccc to dist adapter harness, no pcv setup , no inlet pipe, a few wires looms still needed too Soon! though...
 

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norbs said:
Well i am making progess, but still have no ccc to dist adapter harness, no pcv setup , no inlet pipe, a few wires looms still needed too Soon! though...


Lookin' good Norbs :cool: :cool:

Let me know what you do for your MAF pipe

What FPR are you using and what size return line ?

George
 
I think its a ESP or Kirban regulator, basically a stock regulator style. I am using -6an for return and have the other end connected to the factory vent line and swapped the hoses at the tank. SO the return goes in the same as place as the tank as before, but is fed with a 5/16 line instead of 1/4 this makes a huge difference in keeping fp down at idle. However the vent line is now connected to the 1/4 line, not sure the negative effects of doing that.

Thinking of getting a flexible 4" 45 degree hose coupling and then going to a straight pipe, but worried it may collapse , but it shouldn;t becasase its not that long? What do you think would be good for inlet pipe?
 
Looks good, but not running. I went to the dentist and mouth is sore, so i don't feel like working on it now :mad:

I need a re-inforced 4" silicone fitting hose? whats kicking around in your garage? John
 
Good news! started the car today started in one click. no comparison to the dis startup time. Only problem is my timing is showing 35-37 when my timing on my screen is locked to 15. I think its my settings somewhere in the dfi, i am getting conflicting information on how to set it up,which i have to sort out still
 
norbs said:
Good news! started the car today started in one click. no comparison to the dis startup time. Only problem is my timing is showing 35-37 when my timing on my screen is locked to 15. I think its my settings somewhere in the dfi, i am getting conflicting information on how to set it up,which i have to sort out still


Great news, I hope you get it all worked out soon!
 
Car is still not running properly. It seems the reluctor on the balancer is 30 degrees out????? No matter what i do the timing wont go below 30 and my brand new ignition coil is arcing out , it doesn't end!
 
I will have to call dfi next week, i am getting all different answers, and combinations.
 
I'm wondering, does the DFI have a real "points" type output, or? This would be an opposite polarity signal to the typical EST output. The MSD would need to be triggered on the correct edge by a points type output, unless it is also designed to handle an EST type signal on a separate EST input. I think it would trigger on a rising edge on the points type input. Anyway, if it was triggering instead on the rising edge of an EST signal you might expect the resulting timing to be advanced and wrong like that. Just thinking out loud here.

Edit- just saw the post in the other section "crank falling, cam falling and ouput rising". Sounds like crank might need to be rising. For the zero crossing detect input circuits that I'm familiar with the cam should be falling, but only if you also have the 2 sensor wires connected with correct polarity ;) But that would not affect your ignition timing. Sounds like all it needs is the correct crank edge. Points output rising should be correct to the MSD.

And I hate to beat a dead horse to death, but you are certain it can handle a mix of digital and magnetic type sensor inputs, right? Edit- never mind, sounds like it can

TurboTR
 
Yes it can handle a whole bunch of different signals i am sure about that. Thanks for the tip for the cam input, but i am sure that has to go to falling signal. Now the only thing i have tried reversing the polarity on the distributor pickup wires as the instructions say black orange is + and black purple is -. Did not find any difference on how the car ran.

I will try it today with rising crank and rising output trigger and see what happens there.
 
A rising crank signal with the timing locked to 0 degrees and 0 degree offset netted a base timing of 36 degrees. Acounting if i put 10 into the offset this means the timing is 26 off on the balancer? This is with a falling output signal so far
 
I'm not sure the ecu can achieve 0 deg with a crank ref pulse occurring at 10 deg. For grins, have you tried locking the timing to 15 deg?

TurboTR
 
norbs said:
A rising crank signal with the timing locked to 0 degrees and 0 degree offset netted a base timing of 36 degrees. Acounting if i put 10 into the offset this means the timing is 26 off on the balancer? This is with a falling output signal so far


Hey Norbs,

How ya making out. Have you got things figured out yet ?
 
I have tried alot of different settings and it still comes out wrong. Until i can move the reluctor ring, or go mag trigger, I am just going to leave it. If i run 60 on the map in actually it is 35 so its 25 degree out. I just built a timing map and then add 25 to all the cells its simple.


Good luck with your setups!
 
Well it looks like i will be firing this up today. Will keep you updated, many thanks to Jeff for making such a piece of art! I am still doing the wiring with shielded wires. Please note i supplied the pulley as it is custom to use electric water pump with a/c and Jeff modified it to work, with even more timing adjustment built in. :biggrin:
 

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Norbs,Not to take anything away from your crank trigger,but did you try using the stock one?
 
KLHAMMETT said:
Norbs,Not to take anything away from your crank trigger,but did you try using the stock one?


The stock sensor works fine but i can't put more than 37 degrees timing in for cruise, i usually run 45. ALso the timing map is into the 50-60 degree zone to get actuall timing, so i makes it more difficult to tune.
 
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