I'm Back..let the wrenching begin !!

well that sucks... man im glad I got the ties when they had them....

I did find these though... same as the ones I had but WAY more expensive..STAINLESS STEEL TIE WRAPS

As for the degreaser... no its a liquid.. comes in gallon jugs. hell I like using power clean from Vato Zone as well.

then again, alot of the stuff i get at harbor freight doesnt appear online... i wonder if its cause im like 10ft from mexico

A.j.
 
dr_frankenstein said:
well that sucks... man im glad I got the ties when they had them....

I did find these though... same as the ones I had but WAY more expensive..STAINLESS STEEL TIE WRAPS

As for the degreaser... no its a liquid.. comes in gallon jugs. hell I like using power clean from Vato Zone as well.

then again, alot of the stuff i get at harbor freight doesnt appear online... i wonder if its cause im like 10ft from mexico

A.j.
Click to expand...

that would do it why your harbor freight has more. while you all are talking about heat wrap i bought some turbo wrap on ebay, but i dont think the stuff will work on the turbo. sence the exhaust side has a mounting bracket on the manifold. does anyone have their turbo wrapped so i can see what you did.
 
mat231v6 said:
that would do it why your harbor freight has more. while you all are talking about heat wrap i bought some turbo wrap on ebay, but i dont think the stuff will work on the turbo. sence the exhaust side has a mounting bracket on the manifold. does anyone have their turbo wrapped so i can see what you did.
Click to expand...

wrapping the pipe is fine, but its my personal opinion... (mind you, opinion) that its not healthy for the turbo to be wrapped up. and it really only applys to shut down. even ifyou do have a turbo timer... its going to hold a large amount of heat.... the blanket or wrap is only going to hold more in.... to me this just increases the potential for coked bearings.

A.j.
 
Tie Wraps

Damn those things are expensive..thanks for the link though... If Harbor freight cant sell 1000 a day they don't stock the item anymore.. I just picked up some Gumout Carb and Choke Cleaner and some ZEP Fast505 Industrial Cleaner and degreaser.....grease is one thing but getting a carb clean is a different animal... NAPA is about 25 miles away so my next trip I will try to check out the OZZIE... They use to make some nasty stuff that got the carb looking like new...I think it came in a gallon can with a basket in it...but I guess it was too dangerous so they pulled it from the market..My garage is so packed I don't even have room to set up my parts cleaner....but If I throw on that quarter panel I have sitting in the corner I will have a chance.....Have to try to get ahold of Saftey Clean....They supply all the local garages in NJ and PA with their degreaser...and they take away the old stuff too...I can only imagine how much they charge for that service now...Will have to check it out...:rolleyes:
 
Carb cleaner

Just tried out this stuff by ZEP called FAST505 its an Industrial Cleaner and Degreaser..Well they say a picture is worth a thousand words...heres 2...I only cleaned the top part of the base plate....top of photo...the bottom of the photo is untouched...check out the linkage....dude its like new... I just put on one light spray and went over it with a cut off acid bursh then washed it off..ZEP is still making good stuff I see...Don't know how it will work in the channels though..it is a little on the thick side...but this is a 32 oz bottle for 3.99...Maybe the Gumout carb and choke spray will handle those little orfices.....:rolleyes::smile:
 

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As far as a carb cleaner in a can I get mine from wally world. It's cheap and it works. I hate the gumout stuff. It's like kerosene and leaves a residue.
 
OOOHHHHH Wal Mart...

Is that the stuff in the blue Spray can with the black top..?? I will check it out ...I get Gunk and Gumout confused sometimes...That gunk foaming degreaser is great on the engine..takes off paint and everything.. This carb looks pretty good except for all the dried out gaskets...should be a pretty easy rebuild.:D Still want to call up Saftey Kleen....I don't know if this place is nation wide but they make some good juice for parts cleaners.. general grease mostly...tried a carb in it once and not so hot.. Boy I have seen some real winners at Wal-Mart...This one here is like Fat City..How come the fatest people are on food stamps ?? Maybe they spent all their money on food allready and need more...
 
nitty gritty... bOOST REFERANC.

the use of the power valves which will give better idle quality and street driveability with a blower.
QUESTION What is a Manifold Referenced Power Valve?
ANSWER Nothing will kill a blower or Nitrous engine quicker that a lean condition. You want plenty of fuel available for the engine to use .There is a thing you need to know about the power valves on a roots style blower engine. The power valve is installed to keep the engine from loading up and running rich at an idle. On a normally aspirated engine the engine vacuum at idle will hold the power valve closed. When you step on the gas the throttle plates open and the engine vacuum drops as you accelerate. When the vacuum drops below the rating of the power valve , it snaps open and richens up the main system. On a blower with the carb mounted above the rotors there is constant vacuum all the time even under wide open throttle. The power valve will never open and you will have a lean condition. To remedy this there is a modification you can have done that is called manifold referencing the power valve. You plug the vacuum feed hole in the baseplate for the power valve. Then you drill a hole in the side of the main body into the hollowed out vacuum chamber for the power valve. You then insert a vacuum nipple in this hole. You will run a vacuum line to the lower intake manifold from the new vacuum nipple. Now you will have vacuum on the power valve at an idle, and when you hit the gas as the boost builds, it will force the power valve to open and richen up the main system. This can be done by most carb modifiers or even yourself. We offer quite a few different size blower carbs with this already done. Consult you local Holley dealer or our Techline for the correct application. COPIED THIS FROM THE WEB...MORE OR LESS THIS IS WHAT I PLAN ON DOING TO THE CARB... HAVE BEEN READING ABOUT A SPECIAL TURBO BOOST POWER VALVE TOO...BUT WILL TRY IT THIS WAY FIRST.:smile:
 
What if 2 Power Valves ??

I am putting on a Holley double pumper....I have 2 power valves...Do I have to index them both?? :confused:
 
Not "all" Holley Double pumpers utilize dual power valves, however if yours absolutely has two then this mod will need performed for both, unless you plug the secondary power valve and jump up in jet size. You have a spread bore Holley right? IMO I'd plug the secondary power valve. The boost referenced power valve "BRPV" that I made will not work in a NA or drawthru application. The type of BRPV I use relies on positive pressure inside the float bowl to operate. Not sure if A.j. is using the same type of BRPV that I am or not. Either way your headed in the right direction with this carb Vince, keep on it.
 
Power valves...

Yes spread bore..2 big 2 small...I have the carb apart and there are 2 power valves...now the one in the back ...on the baseplate..I have only one opening for vacumn...but since I will be able to hook up my Power Brake to the Plendum chamber that will leave that vac port open...so I could modify it to vent the vacumn just like I am doing to the front...maybe I can hook both lines in a "T" and run them to a vac source in the front of the manifold...?? It looks doable.. Thanks for the quick responce...maybe my epoxy is still soft and can fill that hole on the bottom of the baseplate..;)
 
Rollin ...

So I have this Double pumper Holley Spread bore...To vent that rear Power Valve to the front intake is going to be almost impossible...I did put a hole in it and thought I found an easy way out...but the the fuel delivery tube went right over that hole and no way I could fit in a tube there...so....I guess I will have to keep it stock....so you say I would have to kick up the jet size, to compansate for the turbo ?? How many sizes up should I go ??
Put the carb together and found out I was missing the back accelator pump actuator....luckly Holley had it...but I am still missing a shaft that goes on the throttle side with threads on it to screw into the body .....Hoping I will be able to cut a screw down to fit it so the linkage can still turn... getting there....:rolleyes::cool:
 
What is the jetting now?
I said to jump up jet sizes IF your plugging the power valve.
Holley staggers their jetting when they use the power valve, the Primaryjet size is always 8 jet sizes smaller than the secondary jet size. When the power valve is open the additional fuel supplied thru the power valve restricter channel then bumps up the fuel to equal the seconday jet size.
 
Something is wrong Vince. What did your spread bore Holley come from?
That is an alcohol Jet (big triple digit jets) your carb should came with smaller jet say: 65 primary and 74 for secondary. Most gasoline jet sizes range from 64-99 with a few gasoline jets being triple digits(nothing over 115). Now I'm wondering if you had a Holley set up for running on alcohol?
 
jets

That 3rd diget is use for emissions... Think of it as a 20.9 jet..This is how they fine tuned them for emissions...they must of thought that a 21 was too big...
 
Holley's Jets are not listed like that in a catalog or otherwise, Oh well.
My take on it then is they are using the drill size then .0209, because the smallest Jet in my Holley catalog is 20 (.020) and next up is 21 (.021)
Ok so you plugged the secondary power valve and you need to go up 8 jet sizes(29-30). That will get the secondary fuel metering where it was originally with the power valve open and flowing.
That carb was really jetted small, This is just a base line to start.
 
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