I have no oil pressure

OK, for lack of a better phrase, this thread has turned into a clusterfuck. There is a LOT of incorrect information posted.

Scumbag, I want you to do just a little bit of research... First, Google search my username and 'oil pump', then Google search my username and 'timing cover', then Google search my name with 'pump mods'. I've forgotten more about this shit that most people will ever know.


Now, on to the question concerning your idiot light. It lights up below 4PSI. If it's lit and your valves are rattling, you have no oil pressure.

When the valves were quiet and the light was out, you had pressure.


Now that that's out of the way, on to the pump. It HAS to spin clockwise, PERIOD. My TVR has directional tires on it... If I put it in reverse the damn car goes BACKWARDS. Just like the pump.


If you spin it CCW, you just started over.

Are you running an oil cooler? If so, do like I posted earlier and prime the pump. DON'T spin it CCW, put the drill in there and let it fly until you feel the hit.


NOW... Like I mentioned earlier, the original problem has yet to be identified. Until you know why the car lost pressure in the first place, you're skipping a step.

When you replaced the gears, did you remove the large 1" nut with the spring and relief valve under it? If you back the nut out, how far is the nut spaced away from the filter adapter? It should be about 1/16" (1/8" of an inch if you're using the yellow spring). If it's sticking up higher than that, you might have a pressure relief valve that's stuck open.
 
I also sprayed brake cleaner in the hole on the block where the pick up bolts to while oil pump was off and I felt good pressure from one end to the other end and new gasket and the bolts are tight doubled checked them and it is full on the stick like 6 quarts if I remember right and I also fill the oil filter up before installing like a quart in there
 
One last question Scumbag. Am I reading you correctly that before you took the pump apart, when the light was coming on while driving, that the light was coming on solid? Or was it flickering?

I might add, earlbrown has a point about the relief valve. You might want to check that out.
 
Yeah I Crunk it up light was on valves tapping cut it off Crunk it back up light went out started back driving week later same thing light on cut it off crank back up light off stared back driving this time light stayed on but wasn't driving neither time was parked went to crank after car been sitting for awhile like hours was driving prior to light coming on tho and yes when came all times it was solid never flickerd and how do I know if the valve stuck what do I use to measure and what should it read when I check it
 
Then I think (but would not swear) that it would probably be a waste of time sanding off the face of the pump cover. It's aluminum and gets grooves in it, but when that happens you first see the light flickering at slow idle when hot, and you're a long way from losing pressure completely.
 
Maybe check out the relief valve like earlbrown suggested. It's the big hex nut sticking out on the righthand side in my little picture here, similar to where you see it on the car.
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Except there's a problem with the relief valve idea. If it was the relief valve, the oil would be routed back into the gears, which means there'd be plenty of oil in the cavity on and around the gears. But you said there wasn't any oil there, so it can't be the relief valve.

So far, all I've been able to figure out is how to rule things out (in my mind anyway). I'm stumped for anything that makes sense to me.
 
I know this is a dumb question. But are you sure you put both gears in the housing when you replaced them?

Really hard to believe there is no oil pressure / oil flow when priming using a drill. Do you feel any kind of resistance on the drill or just free spinning?

The one and only time i seen this happen many years ago was when the oil pump priming tool didn't go into the oil pump gear slot on the shaft and would just spin on top of it and not turn the gears.
 
I've given you some very easy things to check, and things to try and I can't get any feedback.

I'm out. Good luck with what's left of your engine.

With the amount of times you've started it with no oil pressure, I have a sinking feeling it's already smoked past the point of no return. ESP since the original cause has yet to be identified.
 
Earl brown sorry buddy I forgot to comment to u back but yes I removed the nut and I didn't check the space on how far it was away but will measure today and get back wit u
 
Check cam sensor for a sheared pin that drives oil pump. Look and see if one of the oil plugs to the left and right of the cam has popped out.

And its cranked not Crunk. If you are getting Crunk then sober up and try it again. :ROFLMAO::dead:
 
Well i dont post much anymore just stay in the background and read. As i was reading this very interesting thread a light went on in my head. I have the same problem. Lost oil pressurre due to a hose coming off of my oil cooler. Now i cant get oil pressure. I thought i may have broken the pin in my on my cam sensor. Thoughts anyone? now i have to follow this thread. I may be a little different because i get pressure with the drill.
 
Well turbo nasty beat me by 4 min. :). I have a roller cam in mine also, my second thought was a sheared pin at the cam gear
 
It's not the pin on the csm sensor if priming is with a drill and pressure is not building. Take the pump apart and look for a loose shaft in possibly a cracked gear.
 
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In that case . . . Buy a cover from Earl and replace. If that doesn't work. . . . . Burn it. lol
 
could something gotten lodged in the block and/or timing cover and be blocking the suction port? Is the pickup tube sealed to the block? Timing cover sealed to the block? Pickup tube not cracked? Is the gear slipping on the shaft?
 
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