Very new to Gn's so I am trying to learn as much as I can. I just installed a low mileage turbo and still have no boost. I have read all the threads on no/low boost and have verified and replaced all my vac hoses. It's stock other the the new hot wired fuel pump I originally installed. When I connect a vac/ pressure gauge to the bottom of the 2 outlets I get no readings at all. I read that's it's very rare these go bad but I would think I would get some reading out of it. I need to check the ECM sol fuse once I figure out where it is. Any way to test the solenoid?
How to test waste gate solenoid
- Thread starter Don Smith
- Start date
I doubt your problem is the solenoid. I've never heard of one going bad. And even if they did fail it wouldn't produce a NO Boost condition. They're job is NOT to create boost, but rather to raise the boost over the base spring pressure by bleeding boost away from the wastegate.
Is the no boost condition during a test drive? if so what conditions?
Is the no boost condition during a test drive? if so what conditions?
Thanks Dave, I am so used to the old sbc motors this things has my head spinning. I have a boost gauge and I have only done a few test drives due to other issues but I have 15 vac but only goes to 0 when I give it a little gas. I am waiting for insurance and to reg it so I can have plates for a longer test run. I have put the emergency brake on in my drive way, gave it some gas and I hear no spooling at all. I have a sm coming in a day or so to start to make sure my readings are good. Like I said I think I have bigger problems with the motor but none that should hinder getting boost, I think :-( when I did hit the gas in my little neighbor it did see the boost LEDs lite up all the way on my digital dash but that was just once. Thank you for the quick reply, Don
Ignore those LEDs in the dash. Unless you've sent it to Caspers for rebuilding, it pegs out at the drop of a hat.
Powerbraking the car is not an accurate test for a boost level, so just ignore that data and wait until you can actually drive the car.
If you have engine problems boost level is the LAST of your worries. You need to sort out EVERYTHING running wise and do ALL of the preventative maintenance before expecting ANY kind of performance out of the car.
These aren't civics, they make enough power to hurt themselves when you ignore the basics.
Powerbraking the car is not an accurate test for a boost level, so just ignore that data and wait until you can actually drive the car.
If you have engine problems boost level is the LAST of your worries. You need to sort out EVERYTHING running wise and do ALL of the preventative maintenance before expecting ANY kind of performance out of the car.
These aren't civics, they make enough power to hurt themselves when you ignore the basics.
Yea, I think I am going to start all over with compression check, pull the intake for cam inspection and go from there. I was assuming from the previous owner that all was well with the car but at 60k he stopped driving it and it's sat for years. Not believing that all was good and he just decided to park it. There's issues and I need to start for the beginning. I'm getting great remote support from forum member Stefan, so a big thanks for answering all my dumb questions!!,
Thanks earl!
btw. Does anyone know where that dam ECM sol fuse is?
Thanks earl!
btw. Does anyone know where that dam ECM sol fuse is?
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Heisenberg
Guest
Yeah - I heard that one before.
"I just decided to park my Grand National for a couple of years"
"Just because - oh..no reason"
Goes hand in hand with - "barn find"
They usually park them for this - or this.
As far as your ZERO boost goes.
I'm not sure if Earl told you to hook it up "tuner style"
So you can try that.
But to me - from my (experience) - if it is ZERO - it's a simple matter of your turbine is not spinning.
i.e. you gotta a problem inside your turbo.
And trust me, you might even be able to spin it with your finger, but upon engine start - it's fubar.
Try it though.
"I just decided to park my Grand National for a couple of years"
"Just because - oh..no reason"
Goes hand in hand with - "barn find"
They usually park them for this - or this.
As far as your ZERO boost goes.
I'm not sure if Earl told you to hook it up "tuner style"
So you can try that.
But to me - from my (experience) - if it is ZERO - it's a simple matter of your turbine is not spinning.
i.e. you gotta a problem inside your turbo.
And trust me, you might even be able to spin it with your finger, but upon engine start - it's fubar.
Try it though.
Attachments
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Heisenberg
Guest
The ECM fuse is located in...drum roll please..in the fuse box!
It's labeled "ECM"
But more importantly, the orange wire over near the positive battery cable, near the battery has a connector, and a fusible link.
That's the important one.
Now if you mean the Wastegate modulating solenoid - I need to look at the wiring diagram to see.
-Or -
You could go download the service manual...free..
What boost gage are you using? If it's the one in the dash, forget it. If it's an after market one, check it. disconnect the plastic hose and blow some compressed air in it. Low pressure, like 15 psi. If your boost gauge matches the pressure from the compressor, then at least you know that gauge is good. If it still won't build boost after that, then check the turbo to see if it spins.
What "issues "are you having with the motor?
What "issues "are you having with the motor?
Thanks for the replies. So the ECM Sol fuse is the ECM fuse, da. Going to down load the manual, didn't know it was available. I just replaced the turbo with one I just bought on this forum from a 6000k mile car. The turbo spins fine prior to installation. I just installed a new boost gauge in a 2 gauge pod on the console, boost and oil pressure. I will do some research on the "tuner" style. My motor issue is that I have a clapping sound that is not in sync with the rpm. I get a clap, clap, 10 secs, clap, 15 secs, clap,clap, 30 secs, clap. The car runs, a little rough but it starts right up. I also seem to be getting a lot of white smoke out the exhaust after reving the engine. Hg maybe. I haven't been loosing any anti freeze and the oil looks good. I will do a compression check tomorrow morning and check the fusable link on the orange wire. I'll check the boost gauge as well.
Tuner style is to run the hose from the compressor side of the turbo directly to the wastegate actuator. It should boost, but to a pretty low level. Boost pressure should be in the 8psi range at wot this way unless the spring in the actuator is something other than stock.
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Heisenberg
Guest
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Heisenberg
Guest
Reminds me of the post a couple weeks ago - unless this is the same car - with the asynchronous "clap clap clap" issue.
I thought he pulled his top end to find out.
Can't remember.
I thought he pulled his top end to find out.
Can't remember.
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Heisenberg
Guest
Could be.
I always thought my header leaks sounded more like lifters, more clicky, but maybe the crossover
The thing that gets me on this one is he gets ZERO boost, or so the gauge says.
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Heisenberg
Guest
My apologies.
I posted a generic picture of a Regal fuse block.
This one is more accurate.
And - the diagram for the modulating valve - if you're so inclined - although, that isn't your problem.
You also don't' have to pull the intake to check the cam lobes. Just pop off the valve covers and put a dial indicator on each pushrod.
Remember the Sesame Street thing with the screen divided into 4 parts?... "One of these lobes are not like the others.... One of these lobes are doing their own thing."
Remember the Sesame Street thing with the screen divided into 4 parts?... "One of these lobes are not like the others.... One of these lobes are doing their own thing."
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Heisenberg
Guest
Ohh..it is you again..the clapper!
I know - what were the chances of two asynchronous clapping engines in the same month - right?
Man - were I you, "maybe" have it looked at by a knowledgable GN guy / shop before you go pulling heads.
I recall you saying you knew SBCs pretty well, but TRs - not so much.
Might be something stupid, might be the dreaded HGs.
Could possibly pay to have a TR "expert" lay eyes and ears on it first.
If it is HGs, you probably don't need to go putting boost in there, or running any risks with your new turbo either.
