High cost of ownership? Really?

Maybe tuning has come from a long way on 80's 5.0 Mustangs, but back in the 90's you were doing pretty good to run 100 mph traps with just bolts on. (IIRC 95/96 mph was good stock 5 speed mph) To run 12's back then you need sticky tires and either heads/cam/intake, N2O or a SC. It cost about the same money to run 12's with a 5.0 Mustang (heads/cam or SC route) as it did with Turbobuick if you included the price of the car. The difference was the a Turbo Buick was usually about 3K more for the initial purchase price...

The problem with the $1000 N2O/slick mustang today is that on the way home from the track the kid borrowing his daddy's V6 Camry is going beat you on the highway.

Tuning has but
But back then.
Mods were as follows.
M&H racemasters
373's
Timming 14deg
H.pipe & flows
160 stat
1.72 rockers
V116. R.gas
Power shift at 6300
12.8 - 12.6. All day

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Tuning has but
But back then.
Mods were as follows.
M&H racemasters
373's
Timming 14deg
H.pipe & flows
160 stat
1.72 rockers
V116. R.gas
Power shift at 6300
12.8 - 12.6. All day

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app


Back then ... TTA HEAVY car

Chip
Dumptube
Cheap race gas
M&H DOTs
Bleeder valve
Brand new TTA with 300 miles on it... 12.5s all day

Added..
Shift kit
LU switch
11.9's

.......................................
Buick GN. also a loaded car.

NOS kit
M&H DOTS
Bleeder valve
LU switch
11.9s
................................

Real world by us back then.. TTA was one of the most fun cars I have ever had !!! Had 3rd gen Camaro's an Trans Ams (82,83,85,86 and the new TTA in 89). I could never look over at the Mustangs till we got the TTA... It was my Wifes DD. We actually ran it with snow tires one year. 12.7s with my daughter driving !!:D
 
get on chicago craigslist sly have a peek i think there is a all black t top with a ls6 or ls7 in it done to the hilt trans suspension dyno sheet ect ect for 10 or 11 ofcourse it aint stock but the ls6 is worth half that no verts but quite a few outhers
#1: I don't buy northern vehicles.
#2: A stock one will outsell a modded one in my experience.
#3: Rarely do you get more money out of a "built" car than an all original one.
#4: That car on Craigslist looks like ass and the miles aren't listed.

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4110967608.html

http://gadsden.craigslist.org/cto/4090038901.html

http://reading.craigslist.org/cto/4084081488.html

Money please :D
That's a $1000 a unit rite I have about 50 more I can list
01-02's same money or less


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You clearly overlooked the quote about 10k mile ones being worth $6,000 according to KBB.
 
Just a perspective from a not yet TR owner (still lurking)... I think I think the 'cost of ownership' to be a very interesting statement, at least to someone who does not yet own one. Nobody here would question the TR's image, collectors appeal, and just all out 'fun to drive' ability. However I have observed that there really isn't a 'good' find out there where you are not taking a leap of faith which no matter where you land falls into a money pit.

If I happen to get a TR with 10k legitimate miles, garage kept, babied etc, I can still count on the brakes failing (best advice is the vacuum system replacement), the paint or bumper fillers going bad, and the seal or welding going bad somewhere near the head covers. (correct me if that is inaccurate hehe). So if I buy one before those fixes were made, I have to incur those costs. Or if I buy one that already had those repairs done, I have to contend with the 'pot being stirred' of other potential issues that were caused by the execution of those repairs.

I have an idea in my head (not based of any fact whatsoever) that if you bought a car from the 60's you got one 'back when they KNEW how to build them' and if you got it working, it would work for good. And if you bought one from the late 90's on you got one they built from the 'computer fitted parts', long warranties and the rise of the 'factory recall' and there was always someone you could yell at to help get your car fixed. But the late 70's through late 80's seem to be the 'experimental' age for car manufacturers. Lots of 'Let's try this and see if it works'. and i think the TR is an excellent example of that. Not to mention that we all know the leap of faith leads to a money pit no matter where you land, but we still chose (or will choose) to jump.

IMO these cars are indeed toy cars, that need to be treated just like a woman. Sure they will give you the ride of your life, but if you dont spend enough month on them each season, they will take you for half your income later on. hehe.
 
#1: I don't buy northern vehicles.
#2: A stock one will outsell a modded one in my experience.
#3: Rarely do you get more money out of a "built" car than an all original one.
#4: That car on Craigslist looks like ass and the miles aren't listed.



You clearly overlooked the quote about 10k mile ones being worth $6,000 according to KBB.

really the one on Chicago looks like ass ,maybe your computer screen was dirty it looks pretty freaking clean to me sly and it has a fresh rebuild with miles listed maybe your screen was really dirty ...but then agin idk why im even talking about it ,cuase I don't really care
 
The fact that you'll never get your money back? You have to be emotionally invested in these cars and never plan on selling or at least understand all your hard work and money are for nothing more than your own satisfaction and nothing else. I've accepted that.
 
I chose a Turbo Buick because, among other reasons, I could find so many parts and accessories for it. Ever since I've been overwhelmed because there is so much available, and I want so much of it, and thus it has become a high cost car. When my wife looks over the credit card bill she quips, "I see you bought a bunch more stuff from Kirbans and Rockauto. I knew this would become a money pit. Who is Highway Stars? Is that more car parts? This is the gift that keeps on taking, your other girlfriend. Is this that scanster thingy you bought off of ebay? You're obsessed."
 
I chose a Turbo Buick because, among other reasons, I could find so many parts and accessories for it. Ever since I've been overwhelmed because there is so much available, and I want so much of it, and thus it has become a high cost car. When my wife looks over the credit card bill she quips, "I see you bought a bunch more stuff from Kirbans and Rockauto. I knew this would become a money pit. Who is Highway Stars? Is that more car parts? This is the gift that keeps on taking, your other girlfriend. Is this that scanster thingy you bought off of ebay? You're obsessed."
Greatness :D
 
This thread went WAY off track. My initial post was based on the many replies I've seen in the new member forum welcoming people to the dark side and warning them of losing their shirt. My contention was that starting with a solid runner and looking for a stock to mild combo these cars are NOT expensive. 86/87 cars are deep in the 12's with simple mods, reliably. As with all hobbies , unless you do your homework you can start losing money on ill advised combos and snake oil salesmen. The pissing contests that have ensued are disconcerting.
 
I don't have time to read this whole thread. Speed costs money, plain and simple. If you have a relatively stock car that is actually in good condition chances are you won't be putting boatloads of money into it. Now there are parts out there that are stupid high like cam sensors, oe mafs, and those elusive belt tensioners, but outside of that it's about the norm. Yeah it sucks that you can't walk into the store and get some parts but that's just the way it goes.

The comments about people throwing money at these cars to make an attempt to fix them when not right are the same guys that usually pay for a TR shop to rebuild their motors and add on their go fast parts. I've seen it many times. "my car doesn't idle right or I had so-so install this turbo and now my car is bucking and i have no money to throw into this car because I just bought a fast system. Someone please tell me whats wrong with it." Some people on this board have gotten to used to having money and they just throw it at these cars to make their problem someone else's problem. THAT'S where the high costs REALLY come in.
 
[quote="usetaboost, post: 3298415]just throw it at these cars to make their problem someone else's problem. THAT'S where the high costs REALLY come in.[/quote]

That happens with any car and an owner who doesn't wrench. They are interested in the cars n coffee, or going to the track and laying down a number. That other car with the same or less is doing it, why can't mine? What they don't see is the many hours spent in the driveway or garage, the countless trips to the track on t n t and street nights, and possibly the late nights at the dare u say, street races. No matter who is bolting on the parts, if it doesn't get sorted it is just dumb luck if it runs well.
Paying someone to do the work and put their knowledge into your whip is never cheap.

Sent from my HTC PH39100 using TurboBuick Mobile mobile app
 
...and on that note, I'm still trying to figure out why cam sensors are so expensive. All they are is a gear, shaft, a few bushings, and a fuckin 25 dollar cap. 250 for a new one? No way hooker.
 
ive also seen on this site you cant buy a good loking and running gn for 10k ... I think the guy who posted that was smoking crack
 
I wondered when someone would call BS

Basic NOS kit - $699

Stickies - $200 each

NO exhaust

NO gears and/or pulleys

=$1100

FAIL
Lmao. Sorry

((( uses parts. )))
wet kit. $200 fill bottle $50
Drags $200
Off road & mufflers $150
Gears.fluid.shim. $125
K&N $40
160STAT $10
short shifter $75
Vp 116 $50
$100 bet money
$900 bucks.

Good tunner & driver. Free (me)

$1000 bucks sir.




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